Just bought: 1947 Dodge 4 door

[Frank Elder]

If you can't keep proper torque the head gasket will fail.

[Los_Control]

May actually be a shaved head and bigger pistons in that engine?

May be a old hot rod trick to add the extra nuts?

 

 

Not saying it is true ... just that it is different.

[Andydodge]

Admittedly I am 10,000 miles away but those head bolts look like those that are used on mopar sixes to allow the LHD throttle linkage pivots, etc to attach onto the head bolts.................they appear too consistantly incorrect to be separate nuts and the holes look too small to be the 7/16th UNF stud thread size...........andyd  

Edited September 11, 2019 by Andydodge

[DJ194950]

All of those "studs" are the factory bolts that have the extra mounting holes for accessories like oil filters, throttle linkages, etc.

Never seen a head bolted down where they were all like that. Very common to have 2 or three

[Los_Control]

Not saying it is bad, just that it is different.

Then makes me wonder what someone 30 years ago was thinking. Why they did that. That is not factory or normal.

[Los_Control]

just to add to it, money was tight back then.

They did not add extra nuts on the studs because it was cheap.

 

Why did they do this?

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

someone hit the mother load on accessory head bolts......

[Jerry Roberts]

Someone has had this engine head off before . They changed all of the head bolts to the type that is usually used for the ground cable or throttle linkage . probably that type of head bolt is all that was available to the guy . Just as Plymouthy has mentioned .  

[Jchaidez]

By chance anyone know of a good shop in Phoenix for the engine rebuild? If need. 

[pflaming]

Just read this thread, insomnia.  I have rebuilt two 218’s. The first included inserts, new pistons, rings, valves etc. it was the first engine I ever built. I knew nothing, just asked questions as I went. These are not complicated engines to rebuild. The photo is my second build. There is very little as satisfying as hearing an engine you rebuilt startup and run!! 

[Dan Hiebert]

Yeah, open to the elements in Arizona is not particularly good, especially if you don't know how long it sat without a carburetor.  Wind blown sand and dust, not to mention wee (sometimes not so wee) desert creatures seeking shelter.  At least with it not running, none of that has been sucked into the engine, just means taking it apart to see what's going on before you spend too much more time and money on it, as Los Control suggests, is the way to go if you're entertaining using that engine.  Personally, I like to retain original engines in cars as much as possible, but if they're beyond repair I have no issues "upgrading".  What those head bolts mean is that the head was off in the past for some reason, chasing that reason down if you can may save some heartburn down the road.  Sometimes we can never figure out why a PO did something. 

[Jchaidez]

Well this is scary also. 

[Los_Control]

I would put some air in that tire before taking it on the freeway.

 

From what I see, looks like it could be undone.

[Jchaidez]

4 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I would put some air in that tire before taking it on the freeway.

 

From what I see, looks like it could be undone.

The tire is bad. Need to get some good used tires. Then I can try to fix the rear end? Seems to be sitting super low. Not sure if it's missing leaf springs or the u bolts are bent?

[Los_Control]

1 minute ago, Jchaidez said:

Not sure if it's missing leaf springs or the u bolts are bent?

They put lowering blocks on it .... home made square tubing between the springs and axle housing. Also longer u bolts for the added block.

 

You would need to take off the u-bolts, remove the block, then use proper length u-bolts to bolt it back together.

I have never done this to a car, not sure if they would have modified anything else. Maybe someone else knows if there is something else.

[Los_Control]

I wonder if they may have tack welded the blocks in place to hold them? Might be nice to see a photo of the rear end housing, wonder if it is stock or been changed to something newer?

One thing with these old cars, you never know what someone else has done in the past.

[Jchaidez]

Here you go closer look hope these help.

 

 

Edited September 11, 2019 by Jchaidez

[Plymouthy Adams]

what did that poor car ever do to anyone???????

[Los_Control]

those photos it looks like it may be easy to remove. I meant a photo of where the driveline connects to the pumpkin, to see if it is original or newer.

[Jchaidez]

4 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

those photos it looks like it may be easy to remove. I meant a photo of where the driveline connects to the pumpkin, to see if it is original or newer.

Sorry. I know some mechanical stuff but not 100% by driveline do you mean the driveshaft or is that different? I can try to get a pic.

[Jchaidez]

Also guessing I should probably lube up all head bolts and hinges before I start trying to take them off? Or they are likely to break? 

[Los_Control]

1 minute ago, Jchaidez said:

Sorry. I know some mechanical stuff but not 100% by driveline do you mean the driveshaft or is that different? I can try to get a pic.

yes drive shaft, sometime we can tell by the shape and looks, if the rear end is original or swapped out to something newer. So far only seen pictures of the axle tubes. Tubes all look the same 

2 minutes ago, Jchaidez said:

Also guessing I should probably lube up all head bolts and hinges before I start trying to take them off? Or they are likely to break? 

Head bolts you should be fine. not sure what hinges you are talking about ... I bought my truck over a year ago, been spraying penetrating oil everywhere whenever I think about it or get a chance.. Bolts still break, but I feel better because I tried.

[Plymouthy Adams]

torch is still your best friend disassembling one of these old vehicles....couple cycles of heat till cherry red...breaks rust bonds..often will evaporate the rust off the end of the bolt...never apply direct torch flame to threads...the touching of the flame will cause distortion...indirect heat to threads...

Edited September 11, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams

[Jchaidez]

Driveline

[Los_Control]

 

Looking at this photo, looks almost identical to the rear end in my 49. I am guessing you have original rear end with home made lowering blocks.

Big difference I see, Mine has more oil around the u-joint area. Maybe you need to add some?

 

Just joking with you, yours actually looks pretty clean and the front seal is not leaking. Might just be a low mile car, I suspect someone has been in there and replaced the seal.

So far I have owned 3, 1949-1952 trucks, every one of them needed a new seal. Yours seems like it was not leaking the last time it was on the road, it may start leaking when you start driving it.