Me and the B-1-D

[Worden18]

8 minutes ago, jpartington said:

I brought my plates to dmv on Friday and they told me they had to call the state. They called and came back and told me the swap was not possible. I guess I did not have the same luck as you guys  I might see if I can call the state myself and see what the deal really is.

Man that sucks!  I'd run that plate anyway and just keep the other plate  in the glove box or under the seat or something.  That's just me though, I like to break the rules.  Especially if the rules are stupid ?

Edited June 23, 2019 by Worden18

[Worden18]

This is the mess I've made so far ?

[Dodgeb4ya]

That tool I showed above is listed in the parts book and I've found two in Dodge trucks.

[Merle Coggins]

8 point locknut sockets like this are available in many different sizes. They are common with spindle nuts on larger trucks. When you get to the rear brakes you’ll want one in 2-9/16” size for those spindle nuts. If you measure the size of the hub cap you may be able to find one in that size too. 

[Brent B3B]

On 6/22/2019 at 8:25 PM, 9 foot box said:

   What are the other applications for that wrench?           The middle hex is 1.125" and fits the minor brake adjust. I haven't figured the spanner end, yet. The dust cap is 2.250".

Does the spanner end fit the fuel tank sending unit lock ring?

Edited June 26, 2019 by Brent B3B
Spelling

[ggdad1951]

I have 2 of the wrenches.  One end is the dust cap, I THINK the center is the brakes and/or the spindle nut, spanner I always thought for the rear axle.  It seems to be for axle/hub applications so....for FEF I made my own tools (access to a laser is awesome) but picked a few others up over the years.  Looked for one at the swap meet for you but didn't find one.

[Dodgeb4ya]

As for the gas tank sender lock ring tools....

Here are two of the gas tank sender lock ring tools. I use the tubular one all the time.

The 3 D printed one is for removal of under the car access to the sender lock rings for later Mopar cars 1955 up. .

The tubular one is for the sender ring removal on top of the tank through the floor as on the trucks and through the trunk floor on 1949 say trough 1954 cars.

Edited June 26, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya

[Worden18]

Thanks for posting all of this stuff about the tools fellas.  I need to check under the seat of my truck just to be sure.  Never know what's under there.

[rjoiner57]

I was wondering if you would be able to show some pictures of how the bed mounts to the frame, I've got a Canadian made 49 D that someone has put a hydraulic lift on but don't quite figure out how to re-mount.

[Worden18]

On 8/7/2019 at 5:39 PM, rjoiner57 said:

I was wondering if you would be able to show some pictures of how the bed mounts to the frame, I've got a Canadian made 49 D that someone has put a hydraulic lift on but don't quite figure out how to re-mount.

I'll see if I can get some pictures for you tomorrow.  

[Worden18]

10-4-19:

Finally got the truck running again and moved into my garage from the barn.  Took me forever as usual.  My son kept me company.

The points were out of adjustment.  The carb linkage is sticking too, causing the engine to rev.  I kept it down by pulling the choke out.  I'll figure it out.  Main thing is that I got the truck moved.  I feel good about that.  

Now I can get it up on blocks and work on the brakes among other things.  I have a special plan for some patina'd lettering.  It's gonna be really cool.  ?

Pic 1: still stuck in the barn. ?

Pics 2 & 3: in the garage!

[Worden18]

10-4-19:

Tomorrow I will move the truck one space closer to the Meadowbrook.  I might slide it over on wheel dollies as there is no garage door there.  4 car garage, 3 doors ?.

I'll need to park my work car where the truck is now.  Getting close to window scraping weather here.  

BTW fellas, there was nothing under the seat!

Edited October 5, 2019 by Worden18

[Merle Coggins]

Lookin’ good. 

On the sticky throttle, I like to use some dry lube spray and spray it liberally on all of the pivot points of the throttle. Pay special attention to where the cross-over link runs behind the block, where the rod runs through the bracket. When these get dry and rusty they cause a bit of drag on the linkage movement. 

Some also add an additional spring, but I find that if I keep things lubed up one spring is fine. 

[Worden18]

10-6-19: 

Moved the truck over into that neutral space.  Didn't use wheel dollies.  I was surprised how easily the wheels turned even when I was sitting still.  I crave driving it....it's killing me (softly; Roberta Flack ?).  Guess I better get to work on it.

[Worden18]

10-7-19:

Sitting in my garage gazing down at the highway while enjoying a pair of Hostess Cupcakes.  ?

The 48 is sitting comfortably behind me.   The sound of the traffic mixed with moments of silence is calming.  

[Worden18]

2-15-20:

Fired up the 48 today and let it run for 10 minutes or so.  Not much else to report other than I have my work cut out for me.  I need to finish the tune up and get to work on the brakes.  I'll tackle that after we move in March. Yep we're going to move yet again.  This spring looks promising though. ?

 

[Dodgeed]

I always enjoyed firing up my toys in the winter months when I used to live in Western Pennsylvania. Even if I couldn't take them out, I'd run them every month for about 15 minutes or so. Did that for over 30 years, and never had any problems w/gasoline getting gummed up in the carbs, or water settling in the exhaust systems. Helped keep batteries charged too. Was always good to "connect" w/the vehicles over the winter months. BTW, keep your pictures coming; very enjoyable. ?

[Worden18]

5-2-20:

I was over at my old property to mow and take care of some things.  I still have a lot of stuff there, including my loader and the '48.  I hope to transport it to our new house soon.  Then I can actually work on it.  I did start it today and let it run for 15 minutes.  When I get the truck roadworthy it's going to be extra sweet....

[Worden18]

One more for you guys ?

[Radarsonwheels]

Man that thing is a hulk! I really like it I wish my panels were that nice. I bet that paint would buff right up with some compound in a day’s work.

[Worden18]

6-8-20:

Well guys, after my truck sat for only 1 week now it won't start.  I noticed that one of the distributor cap clips had actually come off...so I thought "I found the problem!"  Not so.  Clipped it back on, wouldn't start.  So I made sure there was gas in the tank and then dumped a tiny bit down the carb.  Should have fired, it did not.  So now I know its a spark problem.  I re-gapped the points...twice.  Wouldn't start.  My brother borrowed me his multi-meter, so I'll check the coil with that.  Coil is new and has been running in it for a year.  Points, condenser and rotor are new.  I plan on replacing them all (if coil checks out) with NOS parts I'm going to order from eBay.  I also need to change the plugs.  Should do the wires as well, but they are not super old and I can't imagine all of them going bad at once.  I'll check them for ohms.  

Any advice before I order parts?  Anything else I should check that maybe I hadn't mentioned?  Just wanna cover my bases since a lot of times I overlook the easy things. I won't be able to work on the truck until this coming Saturday. Thanks

[Jerry Roberts]

2 hours ago, Worden18 said:

... Points, condenser and rotor are new.  I plan on replacing them all (if coil checks out) with NOS parts I'm going to order from eBay. ...

If you need the Auto-Lite part numbers ,  give us the part number on your distributor . It should start with three letters , like IGS XXXXX . 

[Merle Coggins]

9 hours ago, Worden18 said:

6-8-20:

Well guys, after my truck sat for only 1 week now it won't start.  I noticed that one of the distributor cap clips had actually come off...so I thought "I found the problem!"  Not so.  Clipped it back on, wouldn't start.  So I made sure there was gas in the tank and then dumped a tiny bit down the carb.  Should have fired, it did not.  So now I know its a spark problem.  I re-gapped the points...twice.  Wouldn't start.  My brother borrowed me his multi-meter, so I'll check the coil with that.  Coil is new and has been running in it for a year.  Points, condenser and rotor are new.  I plan on replacing them all (if coil checks out) with NOS parts I'm going to order from eBay.  I also need to change the plugs.  Should do the wires as well, but they are not super old and I can't imagine all of them going bad at once.  I'll check them for ohms.  

Any advice before I order parts?  Anything else I should check that maybe I hadn't mentioned?  Just wanna cover my bases since a lot of times I overlook the easy things. I won't be able to work on the truck until this coming Saturday. Thanks

 

Did you remember to turn the key on? Sounds like a dumb questions but it’s probably happened to many of us at one time or another. (I know I’ve done it) Or maybe your ignition switch failed and isn’t getting power to the coil? 

[pflaming]

Key, yes old ignition switches are not dependable. I love that huge old barn, forget the truck! LOL 

Edited June 9, 2020 by pflaming

[keithb7]

The multi-meter you borrowed from your brother should help you nail down the problem. 

Look for the wire coming off your battery that goes into the back of your key switch. Check to see that there is voltage there. Your truck is 6V still I assume? Then turn the key on. Now you should have 6V exiting the ignition switch via another wire. It will be headed to the coil on one smaller, outer perimeter connector there. Check for 6V there.  The other small connector on the coil, has a wire that travels to your distributor. It goes in the side of the distributor housing below the cap. Ensure this connection is tight, all fibre isolation washers are in place. The connection here should be isolated from ground. You can use the continuity setting on the meter to ensure there is no contact to ground here.  You can also check continuity of the wires mentioned to/from the ignition switch and coil.  From their origin to the other end. To ensure they are complete and in tact. A longer test lead with alligator clips on each end is very helpful here.

 

If you take the distributor cap off, (you've already set the points gap) you can turn the engine by hand. Tug at the fan blade to turn it. When the points are closed you should have continuity from the said wire going into the distributor, to ground. That wire going all the way back up to the coil, sends the 6V power all the way from the ignition switch to ground each time the points close. The power going into, and coming out of the outer perimeter of the coil collapses a field of power inside of the coil when it goes to ground. As the voltage collapses, it jumps to the inner part of the coil, creating a massive 1-time jolt of very high voltage DC electricity. This is the voltage that comes out of the center, large-wire of the coil. The high voltage travels to the center of the distributor cap. It arcs across the rotor to the plug wire lug, then through the plug wire, where it jumps to ground at the spark plug. Next it creates a spark and ignites the compressed highly explosive air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. 

 

There is a lot of arcing and jumping of electricity going on here. Clean contacts must be maintained where possible. They corrode over time. Points arc. Rotor to cap arcs every time the rotor passes. Points arc too, the condenser prevents the arcing here. When you leave the key on by accident, engine stopped, the points may burn up as they arc. The coil gets hot too. Spark plugs arc. They corrode too a need a good cleaning once in a while too. Not only to remove corrosion from arcing, but also oil and gas, residue in the cylinder of course. 

 

I remember way back, in shop class in high school. The first time I heard the term Primary ignition circuit and Secondary ignition circuit.  Primary being the initial stage where only 6V is utilized.  From ignition switch to points to ground. Secondary being the part of the circuit after it comes out of the centre of the coil at very high voltage, through distributor and off to the spark plugs. 

 

Recently I read a stat somewhere saying that over 90% of all no-start problems are attributed to ignition system problems. There is a fair bit going on in there that is often mis-understood.

Edited June 9, 2020 by keithb7