TFC Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Been working on my 52 B3B a lot since good/warmer weather has returned to Maine. I have run into an issue today while trying removing the intake/exhaust manifold though. Got the nuts & washers off however the previous owner used high temp RTV when the manifold was installed. Seems very well glued in place, understand how brittle/easily damaged a manifold can be, anybody have any advice about a good approach to resolve this problem? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Have you removed all 13 fasteners? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Rogers Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Yup that hidden one in the middle underneath the manifold can be a real booger if you dont know its there. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFC Posted May 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 I did look under there, and found that the previous owner did not install that nut. Worked on a 62 Willys awhile back, it had a 226 Super Hurricane that had a very similar set-up with that hidden/hard to get at middle nut/stud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 If it were mine I would try soaking the gasket joint with a penetrating solution. Kerosene even. Then put a couple nuts back on loose to keep it from falling and start tapping with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer. Hope this helps, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFC Posted May 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Am I bad, LOL. Went back to the barn, counted the studs, 11?, missed the 2 long bolts that Don's pic showed so well, Thanks for setting me straight, an yes the manifold did come free. Thanks again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonejacklarry Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 I think I was tuned in by Don awhile back as I had the same problem. One has to resist the urge to use a two foot long pry bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted May 14, 2018 Report Share Posted May 14, 2018 On 5/11/2018 at 10:35 PM, lonejacklarry said: I think I was tuned in by Don awhile back as I had the same problem. One has to resist the urge to use a two foot long pry bar. Hard to believe story: Back in the '60s, while working in my Dad's salvage, I sold a Chevy head to a guy to replace one that 'cracked' . after some discussion I found that he had failed to remove the one head bolt hidden under the rocker shaft and not in line with all the others. then drove a slender chisel between the head and block until the head broke! That takes some serious hammerin'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Yesterday I installed manifolds. That bottom bolt nut is very difficult to start back on . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Don't fully seat the manifold before starting the nut underneath. That way you will have a little more room to work. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 Can anybody shead some light as to why there are different types of brass nuts and washers used on these manifold studs in the various locations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted May 19, 2018 Report Share Posted May 19, 2018 It has to do with what is under them. The ones that bridge a gap between the manifolds are different than the ones that just go into a manifold hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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