Front Disc Brake conversion, cost?

[MarcDeSoto]

I've heard many people say we should all convert our old cars to front disc brakes and dual reservoir master cylinders, such as Jay Leno.  This might be easier to do on something like a '63 Dodge Dart, what about a 1940s Mopar?  Has anyone out there done this conversion and how much would it cost? 

 

[knuckleharley]

No harder to do on a 40 Dodge than on a 63 Dart. Maybe even easier because I'm not sure you can find rotors to fit the 63 Dart spindles.

[Plymouthy Adams]

1963 spindles are a breeze....they run through the 70's....THEN the math has been proven that unless you taking a curve at xx g's of gravity, the later spindles from FMJ cars will work equally well  

[casper50]

My front cost about $400 rear $350.  I got a rear set of brackets and setup for $150 used.  AAJ rear and Scarebird new.

[MackTheFinger]

Scarebird's listing most kits at ~$350 plus shipping, then add in the cost of rotors, calipers, and brake hoses.  You'll also need a proportioning valve and most use residual pressure valves. $400?? Maybe but you'd have to be a careful shopper. Then you'll need to homeroll a dual master cylinder mounting bracket. There's a real good step by step Scarebird conversion another member just completed that will give you more info. I decided that with a subframe swap I  could have disc brakes, power steering, and a V-8 complete with an automatic in almost one swell foop!!! Then it's a small step, or a slippery slope if you like that metaphor better; to a/c, power windows, billet junk and more $$$ into a '47 Plymouth than anyone could dream of recovering. I've become fairly mercenary and ROI is important to me.. So I finally talked myself out of it, I'm sticking with stock brakes..

[Don Coatney]

I paid around $500 bucks for everything new a few years back including the "kit"..

[pflaming]

Disc brake are an investment, not an expense. I used a 98 Cherokee master cylinder, to mount it, I used a 1/2" aluminum bar with one end attached to the frame and appropriate tapped mounting holes surrounding the center push rod hole. Check my thread '54 Suburban build for pictures. You can but you do not need to over think some of these adaptations.

[MarcDeSoto]

If you don't use the original type master cylinder that has the shaft for the clutch and brake pedals, how would you mount the pedals? 

[Pauls_Plymouth]

Scabbard kit for my 51 Plymouth, plus rotors, callers, etc cost me about $500. The master cyl conversion was in addition to the wheel ,brakes, all well worth it

[pflaming]

You do use the original MC, but clean it out and extend the plunger rod to activate a MC in line. 

Edited September 22, 2017 by pflaming

[Andydodge]

Marc.........my oz 2 cents is probably worth less than 2 cents but here goes.........my Oz 1940 Dodge D15 sedan has had 11" vented disc brakes since about 1975/76 when I adapted & installed the disc & calipers from an Oz Leyland,  Leyland had gone bust & I was buying complete rotors,bearings and caliper for $15.00 per side brand new.......yeh, o/k the Oz dollar was worth even less then but they are an easy adapt with the stock mopar /frod bolt pattern......I also used the Leyland master cylinder and booster mounted on the firewall, I made the firewall mounting from 1/8th plate and curved the stock horizontal reinforcement over the booster.....I also adapted vented rear rotors & calipers in 1975/76 tho' since about 2000 I have had non vented discs, both vented/solid rear discs worked equally well..........so I have a 4 wheel disc braked car which I was able to compare to a 4wheel drum braked car when I bought the 1941 Plymouth in 2007............it was like chalk & cheese....................I'd forgotten just what a 1940's era drum brake system was like and while I don't state that the Plymouth brakes were as good as they could be, it did have new wheel cylinder & master cylinders, new linings and recently skimmed drums, I also had adjusted the brakes.................it was truly a revelation............lol.............and I intended to adapt 4 wheel discs to the Plymouth if I had not sold it.............yep, I am a hotrodder and no doubt there are those that swear by the stock brake system but for me the updated brakes were something that added to the general enjoyment of driving the car regularly............if I was doing this adaption now it would be around the $1200.00 figure incl front & rear discs, calipers & master cylinder/booster, maybe a little more..............Andy Douglas.    

[pflaming]

Why the adjustable linkage running up behind the shock. I don't recall such on my '53 Plymouth.p

[Andydodge]

That linkage is for the 1" thick sway bar, I had a race car suspension company make a sway bar the same shape as the original but flatten the ends to allow me to make the adjustable links, that's a old pic with the rust stained heim joints....lol........the car has Moog cast steel 41-54 upper a arms, 1940 lower A arms, 41-54 style kingpins, 1" sway bar, can't remember what the shocks were originally from and a 9" narrowed Austin 1800 rack & pinion..............one day I'll do the shock relocation..........lol..........andyd 

[Adam H P15 D30]

20 hours ago, MackTheFinger said:

Scarebird's listing most kits at ~$350 plus shipping, then add in the cost of rotors, calipers, and brake hoses.  You'll also need a proportioning valve and most use residual pressure valves. $400?? Maybe but you'd have to be a careful shopper. Then you'll need to homeroll a dual master cylinder mounting bracket. There's a real good step by step Scarebird conversion another member just completed that will give you more info. I decided that with a subframe swap I  could have disc brakes, power steering, and a V-8 complete with an automatic in almost one swell foop!!! Then it's a small step, or a slippery slope if you like that metaphor better; to a/c, power windows, billet junk and more $$$ into a '47 Plymouth than anyone could dream of recovering. I've become fairly mercenary and ROI is important to me.. So I finally talked myself out of it, I'm sticking with stock brakes..

As soon as you add up your labor hours, the ROI goes right out the window.  This is true for almost all makes.

 

Adam

[Plymouthy Adams]

your labor costs are  not to be added....it is out of love for the car, the hobby and your family's safety along with peace of mind and that 'certain' satisfaction for a job well done and well, dang it...IT'S FUN...!!!!!

[pflaming]

your labor costs are  not to be added....it is out of love for the car, the hobby and your family's safety along with peace of mind and that 'certain' satisfaction for a job well done and well, dang it...IT'S FUN...!!!!!

Tim is on point, this is a labor intensive hobby. You may come close on your parts costs, yet that too is unlikely.  Shucks, I would like to have just my penetrating oil, rattle can, sand paper, cutting disc expenses back! 

[MackTheFinger]

I agree with most of the comments. I went off the rails in '80 or '81 after pouring about $1,000 worth of real gold dust in a Harley paint job.. You know, just for that extra little sparkle. The bike looked fantastic and I lost a load of money when I sold it. I had an epiphany or a freakout or whatever you want to call it and decided to curb my self destructive tendencies and that included burning cash by the bale. Since then I've been more cautious when building cars and motorcycles. I still burn cash, I just try to realize it and burn it more cautiously