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Posted

I'm flushing out the engine on my '47 Desoto and need new radiator hoses.  The top radiator hose to thermo housing appears to be stock hose.  However, the lower radiator to water pump hose, from what I understand, has a metal tube between two rubber hoses to make the bend.

I assume that this arrangement might be the same on '47 Dodge and Plymouth flat heads. Any of you who have a '46-'48 Desoto I'd appreciate your telling me what you are using. Thanks.

Posted

If you can get the stainless steel metal hose then go with that option. It will never rust out on you. I have a backup one for my car but I stillhave the original on my car.  

 

rich Hartung

Posted

I've seen both the curved metal bottom hose/pipe as shown by Don in stainless and mild steel plus the original curved rubber hose..........if you use the one piece rubber hose make sure to insert a tight fitting, metal, stainless preferred spring in the hose to prevent the water pump suction from collapsing the hose, the use of the metal tube and short pieces of rubber means you don't need that spring............andyd

  • Like 2
Posted

That's an interesting point.  This flush is just an initial cleaning of the cooling system prior to firing the engine up and after seven years.  So I'm not too particular what hoses I use just as long as they do the job for now.  Those stainless elbows are very expensive, and they aren't in the budget right now. I did find the lower hose at a Napa. They had to order it.  $17.95. In tomorrow. 

Now, do you think the pump will collapse the new hose the first time out?  I see Bernbaum has the elbow but it's a bit pricey for me at the moment.  I'll go back and go through the cooling system piece by piece once I know how the engine runs.

Posted

Bing, even with a new full length hose I wouldn't use it without a spring inside..............I would think that any good radiator shop or parts shop would have these springs.........check the new hose when it arrives and if its not included ask Napa if they have them, ideally they fit the full length of the hose less about 2" either end where the hose fits onto the radiator & pump......I've seen both mild & stainless steel springs used, stainless is obviously better but if you are using some sort of radiator inhibitor then I'd reckon a mild steel spring should see you quite a few years.............my oz 2 cents worth.......lol.........andyd     

Posted

Thanks.  I'd think that the manufacturer of the hose couldn't/wouldn't sell a hose that couldn't do what it is supposed to do. I mean, it really isn't a radiator hose if it can't perform as a radiator hose.  That would seem to leave them open for some sort of lawsuit. I'm hoping the hose is manufactured with the steel spring inside.  And if Napa doesn't have one, I'll let Napa keep the hose.

Posted

Bingster:  Yes the hose probably should have the metal spring inside the rubber hose to stop it from colapsing, but  most of the mechanic would resue the spring from the car that the original hose came off of.  So i would ask them if the hose has the inner spring.

So be safe an purchase the steel tube from Bernbaum and then you do not have to worry about it. Do it once and correct and then you are set to go when you have the car up and running. I have the original and I have had mine on for 30 years since I have had the car so divide 30 years into 30 dollars and that only 1 dollar a year so than is not so expensive.

Rich Hartung

Posted

I had a couple of stainless steel pipes bent for my trucks at my local exhaust shop. The bending mandrel wasn't quite right, but I reckon they got them close enough. I took them the old pipe as a template. The cost was $30 each.

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Posted

Thanks Rich. I just went into Napa to pick up the hose they ordered for me and it was a thin rubber with no spring.  It wasn't even a heavy reinforced hose like the upper hose I got by the foot for the upper hose.

Posted

Don, I like the stainless idea and the fact that I'll never have to get another one. Since your set-up seems identical to mine, which stainless elbow did you get. I'm looking on the McMaster-Carr site and looking at how they measure the elbows, "LG."  I don't have any idea how long the elbow should be. 

Posted

FWIW, I picked up a copper L from the then local hardware store. Picked one that had the right O.D. to match the I.D. of the radiator hose. A bit shorter than the original but you cut the two pieces of straight radiator hose to match anyway. Painted the outside black to make it less noticeably copper. Did that back in the 1970s, still using it and nobody notices that it is not original.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, TodFitch said:

FWIW, I picked up a copper L from the then local hardware store. Picked one that had the right O.D. to match the I.D. of the radiator hose. A bit shorter than the original but you cut the two pieces of straight radiator hose to match anyway. Painted the outside black to make it less noticeably copper. Did that back in the 1970s, still using it and nobody notices that it is not original.

I've got 2 pieces of copper with a T to replace one of the broken heater pipes in my 48. Mine is painted grey though :)

  • Like 1
Posted

I have just used a regular radiator hose that had the right curve in it to replace the two short pieces and curved metal tube. Never had a problem in many years and two less clamps to work with which are hard to get at where located. As said, radiator hoses with curves are designed to do the job, not collapse.

  • Like 1
Posted

RobertKB,

Did your hose have any type of reinforcement? The hose I ordered and refused was a thin-walled non-reinforced hose. Where did you get yours?

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