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DocProc

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New guy here!

I recently bought a 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook that seems to be complete, original and (was) running. Ive had it about a month now and have enjoyed cruising around in it quite a bit. Im from Texas but currently working in Iowa right now and came across this car by chance. Up until yesterday morning, I've not had a single problem with the car. My fiancé and I took it out for a Sunday morning drive which ended up with us on the side of the road, doors open, smoke pouring from the cab and engine compartment. :unsure:

Us and the car are all intact thankfully! The wiring harness shorted out where it runs through the firewall and the worn insulation burnt up into the dash. I got the battery disconnected as fast as I could and made sure nothing was actually on fire. After the smoke cleared, I had the car towed back to storage and that was that. (Thanks AAA for the quick flatbed tow!) 

SO, I've done some research on what my options are and have come to the realization that I have another project on my hands. I appreciate any and all help from you guys on this journey and plan to document the process here. All that said, this is definitely the oldest thing I've owned or worked on!

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I would say you were very lucky to get such convincing proof that old cars need new wiring. Be certain to check your brake lines next. Is that a two door sedan?  PS, great field of corn in the background.

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it appears by battery cap count you are 6 volt and DO YOU want to stay that way....6 volt application needs heavier  wire than 12 volt including battery cables themselves....a generic across the counter hot rod wiring kits are set up for 12 volt application.  Regardless of your intent on wiring, ensure you have proper gauge wiring to work with.  A 12 volt later upgrade if that is on your mind down the road for creature comforts will be able to use the 6 volt harness no problem..but a 6 volt application cannot cut it with the lighter gauges as provided for 12 volts...

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You can buy reproduction wiring harnesses for your car.  Check the vendor list on the home page here for vendors.

Make sure you also buy the rubber grommets you will need for areas where the wiring goes through sheet metal while you are at it.

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Im leaning toward keeping it 6v. I found a good 6v harness from rebel wire that should do just fine. I plan on keeping the flathead in it and don't plan on running any 12v accessories so no need to convert to 12v. Thanks for all the tips!

 

Also, what is the little elbow coming out of the top center of the firewall? Im guessing its where any water that gets into the air scoop will drain... (is that correct?) If so, then does it just drain through a hose and to the ground? 

 

(Photo was taken before the harness burned up)

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Edited by DocProc
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Welcome to the forum. I'm glad you guys and the car are okay. I had a similar experience with my '39 Plymouth when i first bought it. The girlfriend and I went out for a spin around the block which ended with sparks and smoke under the hood. A bare wire had touched a hot wire making the sparks, and melting some rubber grommets in the firewall. No where near as bad as you but it did scare the crap out of us both. I had the car probably a month and i thought i was about to watch it burn up down the street from my place.

As far as a wiring harness goes you can re-create your own, thats what i did. You'll need to have a service manual to access the cars wiring diagram. Just be sure to use the right gauge wire as "Plymouthy" suggested.

Good Luck,

Chris 

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8 hours ago, DonaldSmith said:

Quick battery disconnects; useful for dong work on the car, and for emergencies:

2011 alternator 002 battery, etc..jpg

 

 

am hoping this is a typo,.....been a long day for myself...finished welding, skinning and installed the other two barn doors today....am tired but still see humor...

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I still have a 6 volt system.  I use this type of cutoff switch, mounted in a hole in my  firewall......so I can

turn it on and off by reaching under the dash.  It also acts as a theft deterrent......at least if the potential

thief does not have time to figure it out.  00 gauge battery cables, made by a local battery supply store.

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I never tighten my battery cables... I just push them on when I drive one of the cars.  Fast and easy..

In an emergency I could just pull one off if need be. Hopefully never..

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While going through the wiring yesterday after work I came across a couple of things that I am unsure of. I'm posting pics hoping someone and tell me what I'm looking at! 

And a quick update... damage appears to be isolated to a 16" section of the harness. No real fire damage. Just a lot of charred wire insulation and electrical tape. All will be fixed soon! 

What does the switch on the pillar behind the drivers shoulder do? Is this factory? I'm guessing it turns on the rear dome light?

 

IMG_5489.JPG

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And my other question is...

There is a small pedal between the clutch and brake pedals. It seems to be mechanical not electrical. It is spring loaded, push it down and it pops right back up. It goes to some kind of a bulb with a line running into the engine bay. That line seems to be hard plastic and makes a 180° turn and ends with a little filter screen. It seems to be disconnected from anything else and is not in use.

Anyone have any idea what it is and was used for?

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