Oil

[jpartington]

What would be the best choice for oil for my 52 b3d?

[Plymouthy Adams]

engine, tranny or rear gear? 

 

tranny....GL1

rear gear....Hypoid Gear Lube

 

as engine age, recent overhaul and such not mentioned...basically whatever you are comfortable with

Edited March 13, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[jpartington]

Engine

[jpartington]

No recent overhaul

[Don Coatney]

Use what makes you feel good. All engine oil sold today must meet API standards. I use the least expensive. But if it makes you feel good to use the most expensive go for it. 

 

[NiftyFifty]

Cheap oil is a sure way to meet an impending doom IMO. I've been first hand working in a shop where people used cheap oil and seen the results, from burning it, too engine damage. The additives that each company uses is what sets them apart, and the quality standards are also different from company to company. I use straight 30 or even 40 in my engine and try to buy decent brand name, it also never sees cold temps so not concerned about the heavy weight, and I also add a bit more zddp/phos additive as these engines were built when those levels were higher in the oil. And yes...I've read the stuff that says you don't need it after break in..but I don't care...the engine is the heart of the truck, it quits and it's all over.

[austinsailor]

The oils marked "obsolete" on Don's chart still have zinc in the. They may be obsolete, but they are still made.

[Frank Elder]

Cheap oil is a sure way to meet an impending doom IMO. I've been first hand working in a shop where people used cheap oil and seen the results, from burning it, too engine damage. The additives that each company uses is what sets them apart, and the quality standards are also different from company to company. I use straight 30 or even 40 in my engine and try to buy decent brand name, it also never sees cold temps so not concerned about the heavy weight, and I also add a bit more zddp/phos additive as these engines were built when those levels were higher in the oil. And yes...I've read the stuff that says you don't need it after break in..but I don't care...the engine is the heart of the truck, it quits and it's all iover.

I've been running El Cheapo motor oil in my D-24 since 1998.....and it runs like a champ.....5W30 is what I've been using for the last 12 years....straight 30 weight before that. Rear main leaks a bit, but that's all.

[Brent B3B]

There are a TON of different opinions on this topic but for me and my climate, my motor is “new” (rebuilt) and I am using a 10w30 conventional oil. As far as brand, that is a different story…..

I am a strong believer in use the oil brand that you like BUT, stick with that brand. Every oil has it own additives and amount of detergents and performs a “seal”, if you switch the brands you could be introducing detergents that will clean the seal you have and things could start leaking. (I am noticing this with my B3HH as I have know idea what oil was used before I got it)

Adding a quart of an off brand will not make or break things but complete changing back and forth could create an issue.

Just my opinion

[JBNeal]

on these vintage engines, I tell folks that the auto parts store brand (cheapest they have) is way more advanced with its blended detergents than the high quality lubricants of that era.  I also point out that as long as ya use a quality filter (Wix is excellent; Fram is garbage), then that low cost oil will last a good while and still be cleaning the engine innerds.

 

a few flathead topics of interest

[55 Fargo]

clean oil that is changed often, and about anything you can buy these days, will be light years ahead of 1940/50s motor oils.

I do not see the need for straight weight oils, use either 10W30 or 10W40 which is in it now...

but you will be told by the masses your need "non detergent", "tons of ZDDP", straight weights, or multi viscosity, or Lucas additive or STP additive and the list goes on and on......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

[_shel_ny]

nei

[NiftyFifty]

So run good quality oil at $7-10/L here in Canada and change it every 3500 miles or likely 4000 with today's quality, or change it twice as much with $4.00 oil and end up paying the same, and likely building up more sludge then the cheap and more frequent changes....easy decision in my mind. I guess I must have more money to throw away then some, but I'll keep doing it....just put $13.50/L royal purple in my 318 in my car...heads would be spinning

[55 Fargo]

Cheaper oil versus more expensive whether conventional or synthetic, the cheaper causing more sludge, not sure about that.

I do know this, as my daily drivers, are 90% highway, at speeds over 60 mph, with a duration of at least a 1/2 hour each trip, do not get sludge, on cheaper oil, expensive oil, or synthetic oil.

My engine is up to temp, oil is up to temp, it's those short drives, in colder whether that likes to create sludge that I have seen.

I will say the oil will of course degradate, but at what mileage, what usage, weather and outside temps, all relevant.

I am currently using pennz oil 5W20 synthetic in my 2015 ram, and same in Wife's 2006 Torrent but 5W30, my 2005 Caravan with 285000 has CT Formula 5W30 oil.

All are now due for an oil change, as well as my 2013 Polaris Quad, Lawn tractor, mowers tillers, gonna be busy....all are getting on sale oil and Wix filters, truck is getting Klondike 10W40 oil.

I never try to convince anybody on "oil preference", to each their own, 1 thing is for sure, regular and often oil change, make for a longer living engine

[NiftyFifty]

Pennzoil.....brave man...that's one oil I will openly dig with confidence...so many customers that went for a quick lube change and got that all of a sudden incurred burning oil and some cases engine damage when I was working in the shop...the shops still open and won't touch any Pennzoil products

[Captain Neon]

I work part-time for a well-known parts retailer founded by an Irishman.  My observation is that most people buy the oil that is on sale.  Consumers appear to be most loyal to the brands that use Pegasus or a big V as their trademark.  I prefer to trust my car to the man who wears the Star, but it is not a popular brand in my area.  I also add my agreement that anything coming from a plastic bottle is better than what came out of tin can in 1946.  Even with the employee discount, I still get a better price from a well-known discounter based in the southern side of the Ozarks.    I got a killer deal this spring for some "obsolete oil" on the shelf at work.  I will be putting the Big V in my P15 this spring; I hope I don't get hit by a lightning bolt with my red Star licence plate topper while running the Big V in the engine. 

[55 Fargo]

I use whatever is on sale for synthetic, and have never ever had an issue with Pennzoil, even Canadian Tire blend, Mobil, you name it, not fussy, but it gets changed regular and often.

I have read and heard all the bunk BS on this oil or that oil being inferior, doing this damage or that damage. Oil that is degraded, sludgy, burn or 2-3 litres/quarts low are what kill engines. Hell, Motomaster Supreme or Wallyworld Tech oil is okay, if changed when necessary.

Driving habits, really count, some people just destroy engines, transmissions and differentials, they are just plain hard on motor vehicles.

So will be buying whatever synthetic oil that is on sale this week at Canadian Tire

[55 Fargo]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1826448

[NiftyFifty]

Just speaking from first hand experience, and also having purchased cheaper oil once and destroying new main bearings in a gas tractor I rebuilt....that was a valuable lesson learned, just thankfully the crank wasn't scored.

[Jeff Balazs]

There was a time when Pennsylvania crude oil was as good as it got for making lubricating oils. That reputation was based on the fact that this crude had almost no sulphur. present and given the early refining capabilities that meant no sulphur in the refined product. In those days if sulphur was present in the crankcase it would combine with moisture to form a weak solution of sulphuric acid which as you may imagine can cause problems with bearings and wear surfaces.

 

Refining capabilities changed a lot in the late 60's through the 80's so it is doubtful if this means much with todays' lubricants but it meant something back in the day.

 

Jeff

[55 Fargo]

4mula, that sounds like not a pleasant experience, and too bad it happened, but was the "oil" causal or a co contributing factor with a problem with the "bearing" itself. Did this happen on fresh start up, did you use an assembly lube, did the oil pump get primed?

[John-T-53]

Yay, another hot online oil debate!  

 

I recommend reading from the following two sources:

 

1. How to Build Horsepower by David Vizard (There is a chapter on lubrication systems): http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards-Build-Horsepower-Design/dp/1934709174

 

2. "Bob is the Oil Guy" online oil website: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

 

Change it regularly. Check the level regularly. Mind your pressure gauge.

Edited March 14, 2016 by John-T-53

[NiftyFifty]

It was a Esso brand heavy duty 10w30 and the bearing went at about 10 hours into service, it plowed snow and ran a mower for the first while just fine, then when it got put under a bit harder load running a pto on a valmar the oil literally broke down...even cold the oil ran out like water the next day after the knocking started, so I do blame the oil...the engine was a complete overhaul and all high end parts. I rolled in new bearings and put in better 30 oil and it was quiet again and oil pressure back to normal.

[55 Fargo]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1613851