59bisquik Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Today I got some more work done. Built a new tie rod because my old one was bent. Being an offroader, my new one is a bit beefier than the original... thats .250 wall DOM tubing!!! I prefer the jamb nuts over the pinch style thread locks. Got the Sids tie rod drop blocks and early Ford tie rod ends on, new stainless braided brake lines and installed new 3/16" hard lines. Edited March 6, 2020 by 59bisquik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Got the master cylinder and proportioning valve on today. I found that the Cherokee master cylinder was binding at the first bit of travel due to the design of the cylinder. So I changed to the GM style cylinder which is much more similar to the stock style. When everyone talks about using that Cherokee unit, they are talking about 53 and earlier which is very different than the 54+. Just a few more brake lines, bleed and tighten the front u-bolts and she should be ready for a test drive. Also as a side note, the GM style doesnt use the bubble flares. Just the standard double inverted that you can make in your garage! Edited September 4, 2016 by 59bisquik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) I got the brakes all hooked up and bled and built a brace for the proportioning valve to take stress off of the lines. Finally got her out for a drive with all the new goodies! She drives much better with all new steering. The combination of wide radials, disc brakes and a new master/prop valve made a huge difference in braking performance! Looks like she will be ready for the Route 66 Rendezvous in a few weeks. Edited March 6, 2020 by 59bisquik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 On 9/2/2016 at 9:15 AM, 4msfamly said: How's it steer with the new axle? Any bump steer issues? 4msfamly... After some road time today, I can say it drives great and there is no bump steer. With the drop axle, you will need to either get the tie rod drop blocks to lower the steering tie rod or you can get lowered tie rod ends. With the new axle mods, the tie rod would interfere with the leaf springs. Second, the drive side steering arm needs to be bent down the same amount the axle was lowered to keep the steering linkage from the steering box to the arm level. That linkage having an angle is where your bump steer would come from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strandrunner Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 On 9/11/2016 at 6:18 PM, 59bisquik said: 4msfamly... After some road time today, I can say it drives great and there is no bump steer. With the drop axle, you will need to either get the tie rod drop blocks to lower the steering tie rod or you can get lowered tie rod ends. With the new axle mods, the tie rod would interfere with the leaf springs. Second, the drive side steering arm needs to be bent down the same amount the axle was lowered to keep the steering linkage from the steering box to the arm level. That linkage having an angle is where your bump steer would come from. I enjoyed reading your work you did on your truck. Very impressed! You have probably forgotten more about fixing autos than most will ever learn,,,including me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 One more bit of information... when using the drop axle, you need much shorter shocks. I used Monroe 5850's which are rear shocks for a 69 Vette. I had to replace the top bushings, but otherwise they went right on and were the right length. They ride very nice too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 (edited) Little photo shoot time... Edited March 6, 2020 by 59bisquik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted November 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Today I installed my new floor mat from eBay. It was a molded unit, thick and fits pretty nice. I m pretty happy with the look and fit. Then I replaced my headlight buckets with the spare set I had. The original set had broken rivets and cuased the retainer ring to stick way out and make it look bug eyed. The new ones look nice and smooth. Old... New... Edited November 13, 2016 by 59bisquik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 (edited) Just finishing the bed this morning. I used pine boards with an ebony stain and then waterproofing over that. Went with stainless strips and mounted them on top with no countersink so that I wouldn't damage the wood. I don't plan on putting anything in the bed besides an ice chest and some chairs anyways. Also got my dash lights working so it's easier to drive at night. Makes a big difference when you replace a burnt out bulb and get rid of the 12v bulbs that have been installed over the years! Edited November 19, 2016 by 59bisquik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 I'm guessing that the plank rabbets work with the bed strips to give more lateral stability to the bed when bouncing down the road, as the bed strip would not only be clamping the plank but the strip and rabbet would butt up against each other to physically restrict movement along the length of the planks...but if this isn't a daily driver, it might not be that big of an issue 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 JB... that's quite possible, I never really thought of it that way. As for this old truck... it's just a weekend cruiser, so I am sure it will last many many years. I have a new Dodge diesel if I need to haul or tow anything. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Looks awesome. I thought I read that the strips sat on top from the factory. Was so the shovel strips as some call them, protect the wood while sliding items in the bed. And since I read it on the internet, must be true! I am going with a flatbed, but kicking around the idea of using shovel strips, would put them on top and not counter sink them. But in reality, would throw down a loose sheet of plywood if was going to haul something. But nice job, I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted November 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 Found a spare tire carrier on eBay a while back. Finally got to installing it today along with other random stuff. The tire doesn't match all that well but it holds air until I can find a more suitable one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 I would guess not many have shoveled grain from a truck. The metal strips were to keep the shovel especially older worn ones from digging into the floor. Maybe I should define 'grain'! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 I recessed the metal strips on mine. They sit a bit below the surface of the wood planks. Works much better when hauling stuff like doors, furniture and lumber that I don't want sliding around. In my application the metal strips would actually damage what I carry most often. So there is more than one way to look at all this. Jeff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 On 11/20/2016 at 8:50 AM, Jeff Balazs said: I recessed the metal strips on mine. They sit a bit below the surface of the wood planks. Works much better when hauling stuff like doors, furniture and lumber that I don't want sliding around. In my application the metal strips would actually damage what I carry most often. So there is more than one way to look at all this. Jeff Yes they should be down slightly...but not flushed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Took her to work today for a 120 mile round trip. She will easily cruise at 65 but the engine sounds much happier at 55. I think this was noted in another speed thread just recently. Also found out a very important lesson in parking lot maneuvers... Do not tackle a speed bump at an angle, take them straight on. Otherwise you will have a loud scrape as your front axle drags across the top of the speed bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted December 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 So I was looking at my pile of carbs today so I can order the right rebuild kits and get my new intake on. Disappointment strikes as I am rummaging through the pile. I have one large bore carb marked M47 E7T2 and then 5 small bore carbs that are all D6H2's etc. Why couldnt I have two big ones in this mess of carbs?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted December 10, 2016 Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 Just put that pile of small carbs in the wife's washing machine there with a couple of gallons of carb cleaner. A short cycle run, stop before the rinse, let soak overnight and finish the rinse the next morning. Post them on EBAY for sale or trade for a matched set of Big carbs. DONE! , well except for the trip to also buy the wife a New washing machine. DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Talking to Tim K, the E series was the larger truck carb and 425cfm. So two of those would be too much for my 230 build. So I found a couple matching D6H2's that I will rebuild and put on the new manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) Got a little project today. Hopefully I can get the little 270 clean it up and get her started. Edited February 6, 2017 by 59bisquik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) Still working on cleaning up this nasty engine. Besides soaking it with Simple Green and scraping of oil and dirt, I have been collecting parts. The dual pattern bell housing fits up nicely and the 230 flywheel is a direct fit too. Edited January 27, 2017 by 59bisquik 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59bisquik Posted January 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) Been working on cleaning this nasty mess up. Anybody know how to disassemble the rocker shafts? Edited January 30, 2017 by 59bisquik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 First a word of caution!!! The studs that you have left in the heads are hollow and a bit fragile. Be gentle when you put a small pipe wrench on them. The 'should' be removed so that you can clean them out. The rockers are likely stuck by the varnish. The end caps/plugs need to be removed and the crud cleaned out. Brake cleaner and a bore brush work well if you don't have access to a hot tank. An ultra-sonic cleaner is helpful for cleaning the rocker arms but you will also likely need to clean out the small oil passages by hand. Use small drill bits between your fingers to open the small holes. Dorman plugs #555-011 for the shaft ends. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonejacklarry Posted February 3, 2017 Report Share Posted February 3, 2017 Great looking truck and I applaud your engineering! I am beginning to take a hard look at my rolling chassis. Your solution to lowering the rear was to take out a couple of leaf springs and reverse the shackles. I wonder about the possibility of moving the axle below the leaf springs to lower the truck. My guess is that it would lower it about 4" and even more if the shackles were reversed. Any thoughts on this idea or any reason why you might have considered it but went a different way? Thanks, Larryt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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