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Posted (edited)

I have a very heavy nylon strap that is equipped with sewn in D rings....I usually loop this around the front cross member of the frame...hook the chain to the D-rings..I do not recommend using the lower A-arms or the anchors that are the sway bar mounts...nor do I like using the bumper brackets as oft times the pulling can be a upward lifting action that can lead to bumper alignment issues..  many folks use the actual opening in the cross member lower panel that is the access to the engine mount u-bolts as an area to attach a hook..this will cause a bit of distortion if jerking is involved..but for a few feet with good even steady pulling force..you may get by with this occasionally..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

Don't ask me how I know not to use the sway bar......   I know have a couple of the straps Tim mentioned.  a 21 inch and a 31 inch Got them at Tractor Supply for little money.  between the two of them and a couple of riggers bow shackles you can usually find a good solid spot to yank on just about anything.

Posted

the one I have was given to me when I picked up the 62 Polara 500 in Indiana....I cannot even imagine working without it now..it is the cat's meow for pulling from the central frame cradle if you will..I now keep this strap with my retrieval collection of chains, binders and misc. other hooks and frame anchors..

Posted

if you go to e-bay the prices will give you sticker shock for a double D ring strap..even if but 36 inches long.  I have found that some of the swap meet they makes these up as you wait and stitch what you wish to have.  Finding used one's is not the most common but you may get lucky...most straps are safety rated and tested and approved for use...you may be able to luck upon one of these that is lightly frayed and taken from service and as you are not suspending weight over your head be able to obtain and use for moving dead cars about the place...as with any strap or chain..secret in long life and no damage is the steady easy pulling without the often snatch and pop folks will apply not knowing where they are at in regard to their load..

Posted

If the car is a normal roller, tyres pumped up & complete I would use an old seat belt wrapped around the bumper bar or the lower A arm so long as its a gentle pull.......what were you going to pull it with?..........andyd 

Posted

What's the purpose for moving it? Is it free or are the brakes hung up? I just moved my p23 around my garage with a floor jack and some will power. As mentioned before tension the line first then pull slow and be sure to have good communication with whomever is pulling and whomever is stopping your car.

Posted

If I understand this your car is inside a building on a level floor and you only need to move it a few feet? Why don't you just push it. I have moved my car several times by myself by simply pushing it.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'll surely give that a try if I can get all the tires pumped up, but I fear that it might be difficult for me to get the wheels out of the "dirt wells" that they've been in for a long time. But I will try.

Posted

Buy a pair of auto dollies and then you can easily push it any where, flat tires or not.

Posted

Hook a come a long to the front frame and yank it to where ever you need it.

Don't wait for any more ideas here...Get ER DONE!

  • Like 1
Posted

Hook a come a long to the front frame and yank it to where ever you need it.

Don't wait for any more ideas here...Get ER DONE!

I agree but how much air should he put in the tires before doing this????

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

If you can get air in the tires, it'll help it to roll easier. As I understand the OP, it's in a building with a dirt floor, so yes it will settle into the ground a bit. Dollies and floor jacks don't work on dirt floors. A come-a-long fastened to a stationary object should be adequate.

Edited by Dave72dt
Posted

Once removed from the "dirt wells" invest in 2 sheets of 5/8 marine plywood, place them under your wheels........nothing can defeat gravity in the end, but you sure can slow it down by spreading the load out.

Posted (edited)

I would seal the marine plywood before using.This will prevent tire marks on the plywood.

 

1st Seal coat...Add 2 parts 100% turpentine to 1 part "McCloskys" spar varnish.... brush on one full wet coat..wait 2 hours then one more coat..

Let dry 36 hours.

 

Add 2 more coats of unreduced spar varnish.

Wait 48 hours between coats.

 

Wait 72 hours before using finished marine plywood. Use only on sunny days between 60-70 degree temperatures.

 

Roll car over plywood slowly using eye and hearing protection..

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
  • Like 2
Posted

slowly  by use of the eyes means you consistently blink while doing it..this will results in mini snapshots if you will,  and if you are doing it correctly your ears will confirm the snap of the shot...Bob's your uncle..

Posted (edited)

I think this is the end of this thread for me!!!!!   

I'm goin out to the garage and start drinking some slow gin :D :D :eek: ...just to get some stuff done fast and in a proper no thinking it out kinda way :eek:

Edited by Dodgeb4ya

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