perrymedik Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 Merle Coggins: Yeah, there is a leak somewhere. Not sure exactly where though. I am hoping that it is not coming out of the water pump shaft. I'll need to double check the tightness of my bolts on the pump to make sure that it's not leaking around the paper gasket. I was so surprised when the car started up right away! I let it run for about 20 min. The temp stayed steady at 160 degrees. It stayed at idle the whole time. When ever I would give it gas it was obvious that timing and carb needed tuning, but I expected that. I need to investigate the Auto Choke because it doesn't seem to be doing anything at all as far as I could tell. But in the mean time I'm going to hook the Dwell Meter up and see where I stand on that, and then adjust the timing with a timing gun. I can't really do much with the Carb just yet because I don't have an exhaust system attached. I have the tail pipe, but need to buy everything between the exhaust manifold and the clamp that attaches to the tail pipe. And while I wait on all of those parts I can start checking out the brake system, Lube the Rear Axle ( as the Tech Tips page recommends) and flush the transmission too. I'm sure that's gunked up. Then I can start looking at other things like replacing lamps, fixing the corroded Heater in the engine compartment and other minor things, but operating and safety systems first. The rest is just cosmetic. Lots to do before I can get it on the road, but still, this is exciting!! Quote
perrymedik Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 One question I did have: When reading up on Ignition timing, Carb Settings, etc the Service Manual talks about doing adjustments within certain RPM ranges. My car doesn't have a Tach. Not that it is missing, it just doesn't have one. How do I figure out what RPM the car is running at? Quote
Young Ed Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 One question I did have: When reading up on Ignition timing, Carb Settings, etc the Service Manual talks about doing adjustments within certain RPM ranges. My car doesn't have a Tach. Not that it is missing, it just doesn't have one. How do I figure out what RPM the car is running at? You can get an external one with wires that clip on. Usually a tach/dwell meter. Quote
desoto1939 Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 A hand held tach/Dwell tester is what you need to get the readings from the engine. After you get the engine running smoothly then hook up your handheld tach/dwell. Remember that most unit are negative ground and our cars are positive ground. So you might just have to switch the leads to be setup as to how the car is grounded. So If the car is positive ground then the Positive clip goes to the ground onth engine like a heald bolt. The Negative then would go to the power side. The instruction sheet would show you on a typical neg ground set just switch to what you need. Some times you can pick up these units at yard sales or go to an auto shop like NAPA. It does not have to be a real expensive unit. Get one that has the tach/Dwell and alo points check. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
perrymedik Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 despot1939: Good to go! The guy from the NAPA store has a Dwell Meter that he just let me borrow and I see that it also has a Tach function! Booh Yah! No instruction manual though and it is rather aged so I doubt I'll find that on the inter-web. Time to do a little reading up on how to test the Dwell Angle and make the needed changes, then I'll tackle timing.Thanks! Quote
greg g Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 the default on the auto choke is to be closed when cold, the job of the little stove and linkage on the manifold is to heat the spring which pulls the choke off when the manifold warms up. There may also be some linkage that holds it open after it is warmed, so that you need to floor the acc pedal to allow it to close for cold start. Your crankcase vent tube is conspicuous by its absence. It is fitted to the round hole pass side of the block just infront of the bellhousing attachment point. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 you must actually have the accelerator partially pressed during cranking for the session's choke to actually set..it only get power when the starter is active... Quote
perrymedik Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 Gregg g: Agreed on the auto choke. I have noticed that regardless of whether the engine is stone cold or warm that it doesn't move and the choke remains wide open. I have to either hold it closed with my finger while someone starts the car, or put a little clip on the connecting rod to hold it up thus closing the choke valve on the top of the carb so that the car will start. As for the crankcase vent tube, I have it. It is sitting in the garage. I had cleaned out the filter in it, but it is so rusted and falling apart that I am ordering a new one. Good eye though!! Quote
perrymedik Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 Plymouth Adams: I just tested what you suggested. There was no movement from it. I suspect that it might be due to the fact that the engine is already warm since it's been running for about 30 minutes this morning while I was adjusting the dwell and timing. I will watch it again tomorrow when I start the car up for the first time to see if it moves at all. I remember trying to start it this morning with no success. I had pumped the accelerator, but did not hold it down steady and resulted to using the clip as mentioned in my post above. In other news: As mentioned I used the Dwell meter loaned to me to set the throttle and then set the Dwell time in accordance with the Service Manual Specs. Pretty straight forward. I just got done adjusting the Timing with a timing light. I was pleased to see that it was only 1-2 degrees off as a result of using the static timing method as described in the Tech Tips page. Now I have the issue of the Exhaust system. I am in the process of finding the parts that I need, but have a question about running the car. While I wait to find the Exhaust parts needed, and then endure the Holiday shipping delays, would I cause any harm to the engine if I went ahead and dialed in the Carb now so that I could drive up and down the streets here in the neighborhood without an exhaust system? My neighbor (works on lawnmower engines) mentioned that he would be worried that I may burn up the valves doing that. So the seed of fear has been planted, but my Service Manual is silent on the matter. Quote
perrymedik Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Posted December 4, 2014 The coolant leak has been found. It is coming from the lubricant nipple on the water pump. Coolant is being forced out from the hole where the grease would be forced in. I tried to tighten the whole nipple as the smaller portion near the front does not seem to turn. I don't have any experience with these, so I'm not sure if it is supposed to turn or not, but I don't think it does. So now I am wondering if this is a defective nipple that needs to be replaced, or if there is too much pressure in the radiator and it is pushing coolant out the weakest point in the system within the pump. The radiator overflow is not leaking as a side note. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 If water is coming out of the grease fitting, the shaft seal is gone. Water has entered the shaft bearing. It will require rebuilding or replacing. A new pump will not have a grease fitting because its permanently lubed. Quote
TodFitch Posted December 4, 2014 Report Posted December 4, 2014 Not sure about the exhaust valves burning if not exhaust pipe is mounted… I've heard about that but have no personal experience one way or the other. If water is coming out of the grease fitting then the seal in the pump is bad and washing out the grease from the bushings/bearings. You can go a while by just keep putting grease in. Many decades ago I had that happen to me just after starting a 2000 mile trip. Made it the whole way by simply adding grease to the pump at every fuel stop. But you should plan on pulling that pump and either repair or replace it. Quote
desoto1939 Posted December 5, 2014 Report Posted December 5, 2014 Since you have the 49 the GAtes Company has replaced the old style bronze bushing wp with the sealed bearing style that was used onthe Mopar Straight 8 water pumps. I have spoken to a gates rep and they have confirmed that the new flat 6 water pump was chnaged to the sealed bearing and shaft. Do not even think of rebuilding the old pump since a kit if you can find one will cost about 50-70 dollars. You can buy a new pump already to install for around the same price. check out this webpage: www.partsgeek.com the gates water pump for your car is $39.23 plus shipping I just did the search on 49 Plymouth Just replace the whole unit with a new one. ANd at that price buy a spare. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 5, 2014 Report Posted December 5, 2014 the open exhaust warning as I always heard and understood is not burning the valve though that can be an end result, but during decel the cold air sucking in could warp a valve 2 Quote
perrymedik Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Posted December 5, 2014 Desoto 1939: New pump purchased! Thank you!! Plymouth Adams: Thank you for the info on that. After all that work on the Valve train it would be a shame to muck it up!! Looks like it might be a trailer ride after all. Looking at the exhaust parts in the Parts manual it looks like it is all bolt on, and not welded. If I can find those parts I might just be able to do the job in the drive way and circumvent the whole thing. Now. . . to find those parts. I have a call into to Collectors Auto Supply, but haven't heard back yet. The search continues. Quote
perrymedik Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Posted December 6, 2014 Where does everyone go to purchase their Exhaust Systems? I have Googled with no success. Andy Bernbaums doesn't carry exhaust parts. Collectors Auto Supply hasn't gotten back to me yet. There is nothing in the Classifieds here. No one listed in the "Links" page has anything. I need to call Kanter Auto Products and Roberts Motor Parts to see if what they have is specifically for my car as the sites are very general in their description. Local autoparts shops (NAPA, O'Reillys, AutoZone, Advance Auto) don't have anything either. I haven't called any muffler shops yet because of the age of the car I don't think they would be likely to have what I need. Thanks! Cory Quote
1941Rick Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 Muffler shop had no problem making mine up....cheaper too. Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 Another case where antique auto parts suppliers may not be the best place to go. . The TOP 10 Muffler Repair Shops & Brake Repair Shops in the Virginia Beach Area VA Oceana Muffler & Brakes Offers Articles Brands Photos Reviews Scorecard Profile (757) 422-0944 1757 Virginia Beach Blvd # A Virginia Beach, VA 23454 Areas Served: Croatan Beach,Virginia Beach,Ghent District,Norfolk VA,Chesapeake VA,Portsmouth VAServices: muffler shop, custom exhaust systems, new mufflers, muffler installers Monro Muffler Brake & Service Offers Articles Brands Photos Reviews Scorecard Profile (757) 393-6000 1401 Airline Blvd Portsmouth, VA 23707 Areas Served: Virginia Beach VA,South Norfolk VA,Chesapeake VA,Deep Creek,Western Branch,PortsmouthServices: mufflers for cars & trucks, exahust system repair, custom mufflers, muffler sales Stan's Muffler & Brake Offers Articles Brands Photos Reviews Scorecard Profile (757) 420-2846 1464 S Military Hwy Chesapeake, VA 23320 Areas Served: Norfolk Virginia,Chesapeake VA,Virginia Beach VA,Portsmouth Virginia,Ocean ViewServices: muffler repairs, muffler sales, new mufflers, exahust system repair Big Al's Mufflers & Brakes Offers Articles Brands Photos Reviews Scorecard Profile (757) 855-7100 3501 N Military Hwy Norfolk, VA 23518 Areas Served: Portsmouth VA,Norfolk VA,Virginia Beach Area,Chesapeake VA,Great Bridge,HuntersvilleServices: local muffler shop for new mufflers, muffler sales, muffler repair Great Bridge Mufflers & Brakes Offers Articles Brands Photos Reviews Scorecard Profile (757) 548-3572 1224 Cedar Rd Chesapeake, VA 23322 Areas Served: Portsmouth VA,Green Run VA,Chesapeake VA,Virginia Beach Area,Norfolk VirginiaServices: muffler replacement, muffler repair, new mufflers, muffler sales Muffler & Brake King Offers Articles Brands Photos Reviews Scorecard Profile (757) 456-1144 362 N Witchduck Rd # 101 Virginia Beach, VA 23462 Areas Served: Chesapeake VA,Virginia Beach VA,Norfolk Virginia,Portsmouth Virginia,HuntersvilleServices: exhaust systems, muffler repair, muffler installers, muffler sales Auto Brake Corp Offers Articles Brands Photos Reviews Scorecard Profile (757) 587-4711 7512 Avenue J Norfolk, VA 23513 Areas Served: Portsmouth VA,Norfolk VA,Virginia Beach Area,Chesapeake VA,Great Bridge,HuntersvilleServices: brake rotors, brake calipers, brake lines, brake cables, brake drums, brake shoes Quote
perrymedik Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Posted December 6, 2014 Don: Forgive my ignorance, but wouldn't I at least need the stock exhaust pipe that would connect directly to the exhaust manifold? Is that something that is such a common size that any local exhaust place we have? Being that the car is so old and that none of the local auto parts places have any access to any of those types of things I didn't imagine that the muffler shops would either. I'm not looking for it to be exact stock by any means, I just wanted it run correctly and didn't know if just any old exhaust system would provide the correct back pressure and what not needed to make the motor run correctly. Quote
casper50 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 Perry any good muffler shop can make an exhaust for you. Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 Once my engine rebuild was complete I carted the engine to the local muffler shop and they supplied the parts, fabricated, and bent these exhaust header pipes. Once the engine was installed I drove the car to the muffler shop with the header pipes only and they completed the exhaust system install all for a tad less than two bills. 1 Quote
desoto1939 Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 try this guy he has been around for along and makes the custom pipes for your car and has the bending machine and the spec's for our old cars. He is at Hershey and also Carlise. www.kepichexhaust.com He can also make the pipe with the flange that comes off the exhaust manifold for you with the correct bend. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 a good muffler shop has on hand and hanging on the wall a variety of exhaust flanges just for making a header pipe....quick and easy..down and not so dirty for you... 1 Quote
perrymedik Posted December 6, 2014 Author Report Posted December 6, 2014 I like quick, easy, and not so dirty!! I'll start calling around tomorrow. Quote
perrymedik Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Posted December 9, 2014 Just needed to share this with everyone. I finished bleeding the brakes today (after replacing a broken line) and before I put the front driver side wheel on and adjusted the Adjusting Cams per the Service Manual I picked up some Bearing Grease. It mentions to not mix different types to prevent break down. So I went to pull off the drum to clean it all up and this is was I see holding the castle nut in place. This car sure is full of surprises!! That's totally legit, right?!?! LOL! Quote
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