Need floor panel restoration advice

[BobB]

I believe I've gotten the cab of my 52B3B pretty we'll waterproof so I'm ready to tackle protecting the part of my truck that seems to be in the worst condition -- the floor panels.

The PO did a frame on restoration that resulted in a nice paint job, but left the floor with sections of flaking rust. what do I need to do to stop the deterioration?

I suspect that hitting it with rust converter won't really cut it, but is there a way to protect the solid floor without having to yank them out??

I've seen a repro version of the panels for a somewhat reasonable price, but read a review that said the mods required to make them fit we're too difficult to be worth the effort.

Any advice and your experiences in handling this part of the process would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks -

- Bob

[48Dodger]

Rusty floors.

 

The foot boards are removable.....pull them, sand blast them (or equivalant) repair the weak spots by welding in new metal. Paint with Epoxy primer. 

Wire brush the the edges and floors of the cab (electric or by hand) and dig out any heavy rust spot you can. Expose the holes, pin holes or otherwise. Sand the whole floor with 80 grit followed with 120. Again cut in new steel where you need it. When you've worked it as much as you can, blow it out, wash it, dry it, then hit it with the rust convertor. Read the label of your Convertor of choice to see how long to leave it, and when and how to neutalize it. Scrub it again with scotch brites (RED) and get it clean again. Hit it with multiple coats of epoxy primer. 

 

At this point you can paint it whatever color you like as the expoxy will except most any type of paint.

 

Epoxy primer: High in resins to hold out the O2 and minimize the return of the rust

120 grit : will give the epoxy a good grip

 

Note: I would paint all parts of the floor with a single stage paint with a hardner added to toughen it up. Ex: Omni AE (paint) / MR 186 (medium reducer) / MH101 (hardener) 

 

48D

[Don Coatney]

Floor pan repair on my P-15

 

[BobB]

Thanks gents

I guess the part that scares me in all that is the "pull them" part. What are the pitfalls?

I envision broken bolts and poor/impossible fit upon return to service. Are the panels a significant part of the cab's structural integrity and will their removal allow misalignment of the whole thing?

Would an auto parts place or body shop sell the single stage paint with hardener? I definitely want to put down something durable.

thanks

[55 Fargo]

you mention "flaky rust", so how bad is it, are there rotted out sections or what.

Post some pics, what do you need a 2 k urethane paint on the floors for?

if you have solid floors, with some flaky areas/pits etc, clean and strip this out, epoxy primer, or use a "rusty metal" primer, top coat with enamel like Zero Rust, and be done with it. You don't need purdy paint under your floor mats.

What condition is the underside in? That may need to be addressed too.

The removable floor, go easy, use heat, and use penetrating oil on those rusty floor bolts.

Good Luck

[NiftyFifty]

Once you have rust getting to the flaking point, its just going to keep going unless you remove it all and seal up bare metal. I'm with Dodger, I would unbolt them, and thankfully their all bolted with the really coarse body bolts and they seem to come apart pretty easy. Even if you break one, you can just drill out and use a regular bolt and nut. Sandblasting works the best, it will remove everything lose and get you to a surface you can do proper weld patches on and put a proper coat of rust converting primer on, and then I would suggest a rubberized undercoating on the underside and either your interior paint colour on the inside, or even consider the same under coating on the inside, with the exception of making sure its a hardening product, not the rubberized coating that stays flexible, as it has a constant smell too it.

[48Dodger]

you mention "flaky rust", so how bad is it, are there rotted out sections or what.

Post some pics, what do you need a 2 k urethane paint on the floors for?

if you have solid floors, with some flaky areas/pits etc, clean and strip this out, epoxy primer, or use a "rusty metal" primer, top coat with enamel like Zero Rust, and be done with it. You don't need purdy paint under your floor mats.

What condition is the underside in? That may need to be addressed too.

The removable floor, go easy, use heat, and use penetrating oil on those rusty floor bolts.

Good Luck

 

Zero Rust is like rustoleum and other rust paints that are "phenolic modified alkyd"....and will chalk up and have no UV protection. Primers will chalk up too. Single stage paint/hardener is a tough tough suface...not about being pretty. 

 

48D

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

readers...do a bit more reading and research before you group all products in one basket..just because it says Rustoleum on the can and Primer in the description does not make them all one and the same product..not even close..

[Don Coatney]

I see it this way. Sixty or so years ago I assume the factory applied some kind of paint protectant to the floor pan and I doubt they bought the most expensive stuff. Sixty years later after the vehicle has been subjected to harsh all weather driving conditions there is oxidation damage to the floor pan. Make repairs and once done apply another coat of paint protectant I personally use the least expensive paint (dollar store) I can find on the floor pan. Sixty years from now when I remove the floor pan I will not expect to see such oxidation as the vehicle is no longer subjected to the harsh all weather driving conditions as was seen in the first 60 years. I would treat exterior visible sheet metal to the high dollar stuff but a floor pan is never seen. This is my opinion and you are welcome to disagree.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don..if prepped right all the surfaced needs is to be is sealed from oxygen and moisture..so yes..there is no argument in your statement.  The item I weighed in on is that all primers are not equal and that different formulas are used for different application...the very formulas change the property of the paint to a degree it is no longer in the same class though grouped by the same word as in this case PRIMER..the above thread is mixing apples and oranges and could mis lead a person greatly..Rustoleum primers are made for rusty surfaces, clean metal surfaces, auto finishes and even down to dairy facility products for protection in health related uses..the chemical and oil compositions are so varied in this respect you cannot in good faith read their application data and group them in one lump..that is all I want to point out......everyone wants a magic bullet product that takes zero effort on their part other than slapping it on and letting it dry...sorry..all require some degree of human intervention...how you read and follow instruction, choose correct product are the very elements for proper use and long life on any product..preparation is everything..

Edited September 26, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[Jeff Balazs]

I put on a couple coats of Rustoluem followed by brush on rubberized bed liner material. Both sides. Works well to protect and minimizes squeeks and rattles.

 

Jeff

[Desotodav]

I agree with others in that I would remove them for repair if I were you Bob. You may find that the securing bolts remove easier with some heat - otherwise they can be drilled out and the threads tapped if needed. I saw a while back that there are reproduction floor panels being made and thought that was a great idea, but I didn't realize that there were fitting issues. Be sure to use rubber (or felt) material between them when you put them back in though or you will end up with many annoying squeaks when driving!

[BobB]

thanks all.

I will bit the bullet and remove them. I've always preferred doing something right versus twice.

to clarify: I've only heard of one repro source for the panels and I've only read that there we're fit issues. if anybody out there is aware of repro panels they can recommend, I 'm listening.

hopefully I'll find I have pretty solid restorable originals to work with.

thanks again for all the input.

Bob

[desoto1939]

after getting rid of the rust and down to bare metal you could brush on PORS-15 for the underside of the panels, but always wear rubber gloves or some type of protection on your hands. PORS15 is hard to get off your hands and fingers when it drys. then you can spray the bottoms with a rustoleum for a desired color if you want.  You can also brush on the PORS-15 on the inside of the floor pans to give added protection on the inside and then cover the floor with the rubber mat of choice. read the label on the can of PORS.

 

It all depends on what you can do yourself or have sent out to do.

 

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

[NiftyFifty]

Cheap paint and cheap coating will always result in the same quality and finish...cheap and not long lasting. Doing it right saves money in the long run, and I agree the Pors is a good product, but if you go the blasted route you should be fine with just a good primer and paint/coating if the rust is all removed...if you still have some bad spots, then its good to se a converting product that also seals.

[BobB]

As requested, here are a couple of photos.

It isn't bad, bit seems to be a bit more than just surface. Turns out my rough spots are in the bottom floor area that isn't removable rather than on the toe boards.

I'm hoping that a good pass with a wire wheel will get me down to where a converter will do the trick. May still take out the removable a to get them up to snuff, but won't need to replace them. the bay listing was classic2current fabrication. In went through their 2000+ feed backs and didn't find anyone who had bought for a pilot house? there were lots for '40s Dodges, though, that said the fit was good. It's the listing itself that warns that trimming is required and pro installation recommended. could be a good source...

[NiftyFifty]

Doesn't look too bad, except that bad patch on the passenger side...but the under side is just as important, how does it look?

[Brent B3B]

If the floor is "pitted" in the rust spots, careful with the wire wheel. My experience has been it will create holes if too aggressive and when you weld, you end up chasing it and possibly have to patch it like Don did.

[DJ194950]

from your pics- do not get too aggressive with any cleanup or you will see holes. Seems that you don't even want to remove them at all, not my choice but you know your limitations and your abilities!

Find some rust converter, use it per instructions and get to making it a driver!

 

Maybe later come back to this when less needs to be done?

 

Best of luck and enjoy the experience.

 

DJ

[Jeff Balazs]

It doesn't look too bad to me. If you are careful you should be able to repair this. As already mentioned you will need to see what it looks like on the underside. If all you have is a few pin holes they can be brazed or even filled with epoxy once the metal is cleaned up and treated.

What this does highlight though is the importance of good door and window seals. This is exactly where water collects when these seals are missing or bad. It can be a fair amount of work to get the windshield to seal up properly. Ask me how I know.

 

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

I wish my floor panels looked so good from the strart. I went the sandblast/metal repair/powdercoat route (because I had all removable sheet metal processed at the same time. The bolts should remove easil, but just for the heck of it, I'd hit the bolts with PB Blaster prior to removal. There are a lot of good prep/finish ideas mentioned here. Second to powder coat, my choice would be Black Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy, a relatively inexpensive, easy to work, hard drying paint.,

 

Good luck and pay attention to the position of the gas pedal arm when you re-assemble. (anyone guess why?)  

 

Hank 

Edited September 30, 2014 by HanksB3B

[Sweet Magnolia]

I am a POR15 fan my passenger side floorboard was rusted thru in several places too the only bad thing about it is- as was mentioned before,dont get it on your skin. Anyhow there are several YouTube videos on it and amazon has a starter kit you can get to try it. The POR fiberglass type material is used for holes its a 3 step process, follow the instructions & you will be amazed! I dont endorse any product but this one is absolutely the best. I have removed the rust and even refabricated parts that were entirely rust gone with this product. I am restoring my fathers dream (which is mine now) 1948 b1b pilot house original motor - transmizsion all original. We're doing a frame off and just wanted to share something thats made my job a lot easier & great quality. Not a cheep fix but a lasting one. Ive got some pics if anyone is interested. Its all about our Dodge baby!

[Larry Leibhart]

Always interested in pictures, post them. The more the merrier.