Another new owner.

[Nikwillig]

Greetings, I've recently aquired myself, in my opinion, a great looking beast of a truck. Everything I've checked over so far has told me that it's a 1 ton B-1-D. It appears, to me, that it's mostly origional, apart from the condition of the seat (faux leather) and the lack of bed. The guy I got it from claims that it was to far gone, and had tossed it. Oh well, that just opens More options of what to do back there.
 

Notes I've made so far.

1: It starts, and idles fine. It also moves under its own power, stopping however is a little bit tricky, as there seems to be next to no brakes. I should probably think about working on that.
2: Exterior body rust is minimal, interior rust, well lets just say I've got a few extra air vents below the door hinges.

3: The 3 speed on the floor seems to be in good condition, but I'll have to wait till later to find out for sure.

4: There's about 38,650 miles on the Odometer. Give or take the possability of it having turned over once, or twice.

5: As it's a standard, I'll be having fun learning how to shift/drive properly without killing the clutch.

6: Front windshield does seem to leak, I'll be looking into that at a later date.

 

As I do plan on doing as much work on it myself as I can, I've gone ahead and purchased a service manual, and that book by Don Bunn.

I thank you for your time.

 

 

Pictures will come as soon as I finish cutting down their sizes a tad. have arrived!

Edited September 9, 2014 by Nikwillig

[pflaming]

Welcome, that is a very nice vehicle. Keep us informed.

[jeffsunzeri]

Nice truck!

Are you sure that's a 3 speed trans and not a 4 speed?

Looks like you've got the short running boards (unless they were just cut off by an owner) which would indicate that it was originally a flatbed. Most duallys were flatbeds.

It's tough to tell from the photo, so are the wheels one-piece, or 2-piece with locking rings?

I think you'll be learning to double clutch too!

[Merle Coggins]

Looks good, and sounds like you have a good plan of attach. Welcome to the family.

 

Merle

[ggdad1951]

welcome!  Nice looking start!  What are your long term plans?  Agree with Jeff, it most likely was a flatbed.  And also agree it is most likely a 4 speed (granny and 3 upper gears).

[B1B Keven]

Welcome!!! You've also got a super rare passenger side sun visor.

[Nikwillig]

Welcome!!! You've also got a super rare passenger side sun visor.

 

Super rare? Sounds like I should pull it, and put it somewhere in a "Safe place" (to promptly forget the location of)

 

Are you sure that's a 3 speed trans and not a 4 speed?

Looks like you've got the short running boards (unless they were just cut off by an owner) which would indicate that it was originally a flatbed. Most duallys were flatbeds.

It's tough to tell from the photo, so are the wheels one-piece, or 2-piece with locking rings?

 

Yes, I'm quite sure it's a 3 speed, I sat there for a few min, trying to find "All" the gears, Reverse top left, 1st top right, 2nd lower right, and 3rd lower left.

As for the running boards, yes, they were cut off by the guy I got it from. He was planning to shorten the bed by about a foot+. He had to cut about 9 inches off the back to fit in his garage, I grabbed those parts too.

As for what the bed's supposed to be, It seems to have been a Stake Bed, may plan to restore it to that point, or not.

For the wheels, there's two tires, so I'd assume that they have the locking rings, I'll mess with them once I get the bare metal dealt with.

[Don Coatney]

 

 

Yes, I'm quite sure it's a 3 speed, I sat there for a few min, trying to find "All" the gears, Reverse top left, 1st top right, 2nd lower right, and 3rd lower left.

 

 

Are you sure about that? I have never seen a shift pattern like that.

 

[Nikwillig]

Are you sure about that? I have never seen a shift pattern like that.

 

 

Honestly? Nope, not sure at all. I've been doing quite a bit of reading these past few days, so I could be thinking of a different 3 speed. However, I do know that reverse is top left, and the other three go forward. Guess I'll find out which is really which after I deal with the brake issues.

[Merle Coggins]

[Nikwillig]

Thank you Merle, as one who has only driven an automatic till now, that image explained more to me, than one could imagine.

[Nikwillig]

Decided to put a coat of spray paint over the bare metal, that came with the truck, in an attempt to keep it in a stable condition until I feel like trying to do a "proper" job painting. That will be a few years down the road with the intent of returning it to the blue it was (probably) shipped with. For now, flat black will do the job, it don't look that bad either.

 

With that minor distraction out of my mind now, I feel I can focus more on rust repair in various areas. Areas such as some of the "brackets?" under the fenders, and a number of spots on the running boards. Then there's my extra sources of ventilation, mainly in the corner below the passenger A-pillar. I suppose I could cut out the area and form a "decent" patch that way...

 

The patching on the drivers side that the previous owner did looks, to me, rather crappy. While I'd like to take it out and try again, doing so would involve messing with what looks/feels like fiberglass. A big part of me is saying, "let it be" well, at least for now, but to be sure to try and get some rust converter in between the seams and then attempt to fill/cover any voids in some form or fashion, probably with more fiberglass before a good coat of undercoating+

 

Yes, that's a hockey puck. Which leads into a simple assumption that I've decided on. With the condition of the bushings on the rear mount, the difference in height is causing a misalignment in the door.

I've already tested the door to see if it was a bad hinge, and so far I feel safe saying that the little bit of play currently in it, is the effect, not the cause.

 

Thank you for your insights/thoughts in helping this novice step forward in the right direction.

 

More careful thinking while typing this makes me question my assumption just enough to confuse myself...

Edited September 12, 2014 by Nikwillig

[Brent B3B]

 

 

The patching on the drivers side that the previous owner did looks, to me, rather crappy. While I'd like to take it out and try again, doing so would involve messing with what looks/feels like fiberglass. A big part of me is saying, "let it be" well, at least for now, but to be sure to try and get some rust converter in between the seams and then attempt to fill/cover any voids in some form or fashion, probably with more fiberglass before a good coat of undercoating+

GEDC0365.JPG

 

 

 

i wonder if the drivers side floor issue is  contributing to the door issue?   

Edited September 12, 2014 by Brent B3B

[JBNeal]

I had a similar issue with doors on the '49 

[Nikwillig]

I pulled a few more parts off the body, the hood, what it attaches to, one of the floorboards, and the emblem. Soon to follow will be the stainless steel grills, though, only after I let the nuts soak up more penetrating fluid... Already broke a bolt off one of them.

 

Anyhow, as I pulled the emblem off, two of the three bolts twisted right off, I'm guessing that they were not aligned correctly when put on or something, as the picture above shows three horizontal oval slots while on the emblem they were vertical...

Guess I'm gonna have to either A) figure a way to braze, solder, or weld them back on in a better position, or find a "new" emblem and stick this one somewhere else. Either way, I hope the same thing ain't true for those on the hood...

 

As for the floorboard rust issue, I ground down a good portion of the fiberglass that was there to get a good look/feel for what was done, needless to say, I feel it needs more work to properly hold up to someone of my size. Now I just need to take the time to spot a good jack point to lift that corner up a tad...

 

On a side note, while looking at some of the wiring, and noticing how much it's starting to deteriorate in places, that I'll be needing to take a close look at what various places offer for harnesses, such as Rebel Wiring, and or RI Wiring. With all the topics out there, it seems to me that the choice between those two is, if I want to take the time and run the wires around myself, adding hookups and whatnot, or having one that's just about drop in ready.

Also noticed that it seemed the battery was hooked up backwards. I didn't gleam much out of the various topics on that... One note is that the wipers were running nonstop. I think they're electrical.

 

Thank you for your time.

[Dave72dt]

If the POS terminal on your battery is connected to ground, that would be correct for your car.

As far as the wiring goes, are you looking to replicate the original look of the wires or just want it functional and safe? RI is an excellent choice for original appearing wires. Your other choices of pre made harness may not be as "original" oriented or you can make your own also.

[Nikwillig]

Honestly, with my initial thoughts on the wiring, My plan will be mostly something functional and safe, while trying to stay with the 6 volt system. Then, sometime down the road, perhaps I will think on going with something more original looking. (save a buck now, spend ten fixing it later)

I may also be somewhat crazy and think about adding a separate 12 volt system to run various auxiliary items, such as a radio, extra lights, whatever. Yes, I know, I should think about upgrading the whole thing to 12 volts while replacing the wiring anyhow, but where's the fun in that?

 

Regardless, this is mostly something for me to chew on while I work on the body, that way, I'll have a clear vision when it comes time to mess with the electrics.

 

Thank you for your time.

[Merle Coggins]

If you're handy with a wire stripper/crimper, and can read a wire diagram, you can build your own wire harness fairly cheaply. Use the information that Allen Parkhurst put together for the DEPTCA and go to town. I make my own harness based on what was left of my original and the wire diagram. The wire diagram shows color and wire size. All you need from there is which wires bundle together, how long they need to be, and what ends go on them. I could get that from my original. Of course I was given Allen's info after I finished. And it was uploaded to the DEPTCA site after that. I used standard vinyl coated wire and crimp terminals. But then I stripped the plastic sheath off of the terminals and heat shrinked the ends after crimping for a cleaner look.

 

http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm

[pflaming]

I built a harness for my truck the first time and 'got it to work'. This time I put an 8 bolt terminal block on the fire walk ran the wires from the dash to that and labelded accordingly. Now I take the wire in question to it's destination. It made rewiring 200 X's easier for me. There are terminial blocks for the front lights so some wires go there. I also put an 8 bolt terminial block on the back cross member of the bed. Then ran wires to that. Now I can add all the rear taillights, turn lights, licence plate light, and trailer socket from that terminal. No more cutting into wires. When I decided to add a fuel switch for the electric fuel pump, one more wire to the terminal block and then to the pump.

Edited September 17, 2014 by pflaming

[Nikwillig]

Thanks Merle, I remember glancing at that wire harness diagram the other week, then promptly forgetting about it. I've make a better note on it this time.

 

pflaming, that's an idea I most likely wouldn't have thought of. I've made a note of it, and that you don't really recommend it too.

 

Thank you for your time.

[JBNeal]

additional information - Alternative Wiring Diagram with turn signal & headlight relay

Edited May 7, 2022 by JBNeal
revised link

[Young Ed]

 

pflaming, that's an idea I most likely wouldn't have thought of. I've made a note of it, and that you don't really recommend it too.

 

 

That makes two of us. Seems like thats just 16 more possible failure points.

[pflaming]

That I did not recommend my method does not mean I will not defend it. '. . . do not recommend. . ." was poorly stated. What I meant was that I do no see that as an approach that has universal merit, but it works for me. Now for a defense. First if I want to eliminate those 16 locations, I can connect/solder those ends together and I have the same wiring harness as in the service manual, or nearly so.

Two, every house and every manufacturing plant and every mechanical machine with any complexity at all wire via terminal strips. They have a control box in which is a terminal strip. All control buttons are hard wired to that terminal. Then wires are run out to their respective motors, sensors, lights, etc. It's common practice.

The modern car does the same thing, wires go to the fuse boxes (terminal strip) then out to their destinations. At one time vehicles were simple and harnesses could be built ahead of time and then installed. No need to do it that way, in my opinion.

If I want to add fog lamps, I just run the wires to the appropriate bolt on the appropriate terminal block and bazingo. Don't have to get under the dash. Now i like that as well.

Edited September 17, 2014 by pflaming

[ggdad1951]

as for your emblem the slots on the truck have nothing to do with the weld studs.  Those ears on the studs don't "engage" the slots on the body, in fact if they did you could literally pull the studs through the slot and have them pop off, the ears actually might stop this from happening if you get tighten happy being 90° to each other.  I'd say thread/nut rust is your culprit, the material these studs are welded to is THIN and it doesn't take much to pull them off.

[Nikwillig]

Neal, thanks, I've put a copy of those, easy to read, diagrams in amongst my TO DO folder.

 

Those ears on the studs don't "engage" the slots on the body...

I'd say thread/nut rust is your culprit, the material these studs are welded to is THIN and it doesn't take much to pull them off.

Thanks, knowing that the studs ain't supposed to fit those slots, even though it's such a perfect fit... will help me when/if I manage to reattach them.

Yes, thread/nut rust was the culprit, I probably should have waited a few more days while spraying it with fluid... The material? Yes, it is SURPRISINGLY thin. It almost makes me wonder what they were thinking.