Stop light switch adjustment?

[White Spyder]

Had a buddy following me the other day to a cruise-in and he mentioned that my brake light did not come on until I was almost stopped. Is the a way to adjust the switch to make it come on when peddle is just slightly depressed? Where is the damned switch?

This is a '48 Windsor.

Thanks !

[Adam H P15 D30]

Follow the hydraulic brake line towards the rear axle and you will find it. No adjustment, just replace the switch or check for a poor connection.

[Plymouthy Adams]

these are pressure switches..evidently something is preventing your internal contacts from closing or the switch is aged and just needs replaced...they do go bad..they are available at all the big box stores

[Don Coatney]

On  my car the original brake light switch in on the line feeding the front brakes not the rear. On my car I have replaced the brake light switch with a mechanical switch and eliminated the hydraulic switch. The mechanical switch is adjustable. I have it adjusted to turn on the brake lights with just a tap on the pedal. This is useful to alert tail gaiters that I am uncomfortable with the distance between me and them.

 

 

 

 

[greg g]

also available at motorcycle and atv supply repair shops

[White Spyder]

Well, for the '48 Windsor the pressure activated stop light switch is located on the driver side FRONT at the base of the radiator.

What a PIA. Have to loosen 3 brake line connections as this is where it splits for the front brakes. Then the brakes will need to be bled. I just did this with the disk brake upgrade!

Going to have to look at a mechanical alternative like mentioned above.

Edited April 26, 2014 by White Spyder

[White Spyder]

On my car the original brake light switch in on the line feeding the front brakes not the rear. On my car I have replaced the brake light switch with a mechanical switch and eliminated the hydraulic switch.

Don,

Could you post a few more photos of how you got the peddle to engage the mechanical switch?

Edited April 26, 2014 by White Spyder

[Don Coatney]

My car is currently in storage 450 miles from me so the photo I posted is as good as it gets.

 

The factory hydraulic brake light  switch screws into the splitter block behind the radiator. You may be able to replace it without bleeding the brakes. 

[_shel_ny]

I put  mechanical sw. in my D24. Just thought it was a good idea. That way as long is the battery is working, you have brake lights, even with no brake pressure.

 

From below

 

From above

 

Sw. as it came

 

Sw. after straighten, and re-bend

[LAKOTA169]

Where did you get the mechanical switch? I've been thinking about replacing mine. I've had the same problem with the lights not always working. I've replaced the old switch a couple of times. Never had to bleed the lines after. On my old switch, the terminals are threaded and the wires are screwed to them.

[Adam H P15 D30]

Strange. My 49 it is in the rear. Sorry for the bad information / assumption.

[_shel_ny]

I made a little pigtail to go with mine.

[ptwothree]

Where did you get the mechanical switch? I've been thinking about replacing mine. I've had the same problem with the lights not always working. I've replaced the old switch a couple of times. Never had to bleed the lines after. On my old switch, the terminals are threaded and the wires are screwed to them.

I'm in the process of rewiring my '51.  Just bought an Echlin SL128 off ebay....since it mounts by the brake pedal it'll also save ALOT of wire that would otherwise go to the stock switch in the back of the car.

[Dodgeb4ya]

1941-48 Chrysler brake light switch location is up front of the car right below the battery as mentioned. To easily replace the brake light switch I use a 1" socket with a long extension and remove it. Screw the new one in slightly tight...push the brake pedal down and hold it there. Finish tightening  the brake light switch. The 3-way fitting and switch are totally bled of air for the switch replacement. The only small amount of air is in the new switch.

Have bled several 1942 -8 Chrysler and DeSoto cars this way over the years.

I have not seen many hydraulic switch failures at all on these old Mopars although I know it is some what common. 

Bob

[White Spyder]

Thanks to all, this is great information.  I would have taken the lines off and made alot more work for myself.  I am going to see if the current pressure switch will come off easily first.  It appears to be very rusty so, time for some PB blaster.  If it wants to stay put, I have an alternitive thanks to this site!

[Don Coatney]

Where did you get the mechanical switch?

The switch I used has been in my toolbox for close to 50 years. I do not recall where I got it

[DonaldSmith]

 i bought my mechanical brake light switch ten years ago from Watson's Streetworks, for about 28 bucks.  I don't know if they are still around.  I bet the price has increased since.  

[casper50]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECHLIN-SL-129-Stoplight-Switch-Kaiser-Frazer-Chevrolet-/310148861772?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4836500f4c&vxp=mtr#ht_1097wt_758

[_shel_ny]

My NAPA

 

 

SL128 $18

SL129 $24

SL130 $9

 

Guess you can see why I went with the 130.  Also the longer bracket allows for more leeway in positioning if needed. Depending upon the positioning requirement for your vehicle it could eliminate the need for spacing blocks, or shims by bending the bracket.

[55 Fargo]

Here you go  @ Rock Auto, very common GM part.

No need for paying more at Flea Pay.   http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1326664,parttype,10474

[steveplym]

 i bought my mechanical brake light switch ten years ago from Watson's Streetworks, for about 28 bucks.  I don't know if they are still around.  I bet the price has increased since.  

 

I got mine from there too.  Did that back in '07.  I just left the worn out switch in the brake lines.  Just moved the wires to the new switch.