Carter Carb, Fuel Filter & Fuel Line

[HanksB3B]

Ed,

 

Thanks for the tips.  I did buy a multi-notched tool from an online Mopar Parts store. The seller knew they fit on car tanks, but was not sure if they worked on trucks I guess I find out now.  I'll look into the PVC coated line.  Questions still remaining: Line Diameter, Line Length, Correct Routing 

 

Hank 

Edited November 7, 2013 by HanksB3B

[ggdad1951]

I'd sink the money into the Fedhill cupro-nickle lines like I did, hand bendable/formable and WILL NOT RUST!  You buy their stuff you can rent the flare tool for free and its basically impossible to make a bad double flare.  I'll dig thru my pics and see if I have how the fuel line is run in there,  otherwise I can take a series of pics for you.

[wallytoo]

as noted by ed, no need to empty the tank to change the sending unit. i used screwdrivers and a mallet, tap-tap-tap.

good idea to vacuum/brush off any crud prior to opening the tank.

you should be able to test the unit with a multi-meter first without removing it. if it tests out ok, you've saved yourself the trouble of opening the tank, and can then focus on wiring, the dash guage, etc.

wally

[HanksB3B]

Mark that'd be really nice of you to post pictures. I'm betting somewhere you took some photos before the body went on. If not a series would suffice or a detailed description could work too.

 

Thanks,

 

Hank   

[ggdad1951]

Ok, I'll do that tomorrow... I have a Vikings loss to attend this evening.

[HanksB3B]

Have a great time anyway ! 

 

hank 

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

It is 5/16" diameter. I will take a look tonight to see what photos I have that show the routing. Some of it is pretty self explanatory.if you look at the retainer clip locations on the frame. The part that crosses over the top of the frame and runs down along the crossmember to the passenger side of the radiator is a bit of a challenge to get just right with standard type tubing. I am sure you will have fun with that.

 

Very curious where you had rerouted your gas line to?.....how and where it crossed over the drivetrain? I can't imagine a good spot?

 It seems to me you were very lucky to not have had a real problem a lot earlier than this.

 

Jeff

[Young Ed]

I feel like we should clarify this for Hank. We have told him its ok to work on the sending unit with a tank full of gas. Which I still say is ok. However you cannot change the fuel line from the tank to the engine without draining it. If you open that up it will start to drain itself! BTW an easy way to drain is a 12v fuel pump and some hoses. Get some long wires and a helper to make the electrical connections away from the fuel.

[ggdad1951]

got a few minutes before I leave to tailgate...

 

from the fuel pump to the tank....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TodFitch]

got a few minutes before I leave to tailgate...

 

from the fuel pump to the tank....

 

That is a great photo tutorial!

[HanksB3B]

It only makes sense to do route the fuel line correctly and get the fuel sending unit working properly at the same time.  My old BMW runs just fine on Regular and it should only take a little more than 2 mouthfuls of gas from a siphon tube to empty the tank into a 5 gal. gas can and then pour it into the BMW. 

 

My local O'Reilly rents the flange tool for free. I'll start off by making a better looking and more importantly a tighter vacuume line and like __ mentioned some practice on the 5/16" fuel line.  Because I might find that I'm restricted somewhat by the fact that the frame, engine and body are all together I might find I have to provide an extra coupling perhaps.  I'm assuming the factory ran a single length from the tank, through the frame, under the radiator and then joined it to the fuel pump with the short length of rubber hose.  I'll shoot for that if that's the way it's supposed to be (Ed) if possible realizing it really doesn't really have to be pretty, just mechanically correct. 

 

At the truck, I noticed that I ran the right hand brake line as though it was supposed to run under the radiator. I'm going to dig through my "before" pictures to see if I might have taken a picture of the frame before it was stripped.  And the existing gas line is stiff as a board offering zero flex between the farme and the engine.

 

Photos:

 

00 My truck (note the right brake line) 

01-05 A forum members truck probably configured as it left the factory

01 At the Tank

02 Past the Pedals

03 Along the outside of the left rail, then turning on top of the the left rail and under the inner fender.

04 Not Sure

05 Under the inner fender, on top of the radiator support ending in that short length of hose.

 

 

I don't think I'll get too much further other than determine what I need as best as I can. maybe locate a flange tool and a radius bender and get a few lengths of material to practice on and try to get connectors.  

 

Thanks for your help, ((Mark (Oops too late) unless you find some old photos I don't think you have to look under your truck just yet))

 

Hank 

 

P.S. I see you guys beat me to the punch. (I think I'm good now and what Tod said)

Edited November 7, 2013 by HanksB3B

[52b3b Joe]

Mine looks just like Marks. I duplicated the originals when I took mine off. The only thing I did was put a rubber hose over the line where it rubs on the inner fender on the drivers side. It will make me feel a little better about preventing a possible a hole in the line and avoid having a failure on the road. Weather or not it will help, I'm not sure, but its better than nothing in my opinion.

[Desotodav]

My fuel line looks very similar to Mark's setup too Hank. I noticed from Mark's photo that I am missing the mount between the rear of the front spring and the front of the gas tank, so I will have to amend that (thanks Mark!). I managed to scrape together 3 fuel lines which I have removed from trucks over the years (see photos). The one in the center of photo/s appears to be the one with the most accurate bends in it. The overall measurements of those 3 lines were similar but all different and ranged from 94 7/8 to 99 7/32. The line in the center of photo that I said appeared most original measured 96 17/64. I find that the best way to measure the length of this sort of thing is by string.

 

It have found it much easier to drop the gas tank to play with the sender as the access hole in the floor under the does not perfectly align with the sender, and it would be difficult to twist the lock ring with the gas tank still in place given the confined space between the top of the tank and the floor.

[Desotodav]

I have attached photos of the fuel line in my 52 truck. I used a braided metal hose connector length to go to from end of the fuel line to the fuel pump. I believe that the use of this flexible line was to cater for vibration or movement and it prevents fatigue of the hard fuel line itself.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

Here is a couple of shot that show my gas line. I used a couple of lengths of pre flared and you can see where I located a union. I figured this was an easy spot to get to if it every needed attention.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Jeff after looking at Davin's single runs that are about 8' long. I'm most likely going to have to go with 2 lengths. Even Napa doesn't sell 5/16" line by the running foot. I really don't want to buy 25' of 5/16" steel line.  It seems these days if it doesn't come in a Blister Pack you won't find it in a retail Auto Parts Store and what's worse is when I'm the expert and not the guy behind the counter...it's just not like it used to be. 

 

On the good side of things I bought a decent double flare tool and a radius bender and what I think will be enough connectors. Hopefully I'll start with everything I need and avoid the inevitable run to the parts store smelling like a gas tank and looking like a Pick Your Part patron.

 

Wish me luck,

 

Hank 

[48Dodger]

Hey Hank,

                        I know you like to bunch your pictures in a group shot.....but they stay to small for my tired eyes. Any reason you like doing it that way that I don't get? When they come up one at a time, the images are much larger and easier to examine. And since you post interesting stuff, I wish I could see it better.

 

48D

[Jeff Balazs]

Jeff after looking at Davin's single runs that are about 8' long. I'm most likely going to have to go with 2 lengths. Even Napa doesn't sell 5/16" line by the running foot. I really don't want to buy 25' of 5/16" steel line.  It seems these days if it doesn't come in a Blister Pack you won't find it in a retail Auto Parts Store and what's worse is when I'm the expert and not the guy behind the counter...it's just not like it used to be. 

 

On the good side of things I bought a decent double flare tool and a radius bender and what I think will be enough connectors. Hopefully I'll start with everything I need and avoid the inevitable run to the parts store smelling like a gas tank and looking like a Pick Your Part patron.

 

Wish me luck,

 

Hank 

Yes the so called auto parts stores around here are pathetic. It didn't used to be that way......but now it just sucks.

It took me a few attempts to get the section that runs under the radiator to fit right.....and that was with the body off.

The pre flared pieces are not as easy to work with as the stuff Mark used. I got kinks and had to start over twice.

 

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Jeff after looking at Davin's single runs that are about 8' long. I'm most likely going to have to go with 2 lengths. Even Napa doesn't sell 5/16" line by the running foot. I really don't want to buy 25' of 5/16" steel line.  It seems these days if it doesn't come in a Blister Pack you won't find it in a retail Auto Parts Store and what's worse is when I'm the expert and not the guy behind the counter...it's just not like it used to be. 

 

On the good side of things I bought a decent double flare tool and a radius bender and what I think will be enough connectors. Hopefully I'll start with everything I need and avoid the inevitable run to the parts store smelling like a gas tank and looking like a Pick Your Part patron.

 

Wish me luck,

 

Hank 

why not the Fedhill tubing?   I had to put a union in because I screwed up and that was the only place I could put one....definitely not the easiest place to wrench on!

[Jeff Balazs]

why not the Fedhill tubing?   I had to put a union in because I screwed up and that was the only place I could put one....definitely not the easiest place to wrench on!

I saw that.....and.couldn't resist the jibe.

I looked into the Fedhill tubing and it seemed like it was going to get kind of pricey and no one here carried it. In retrospect it would have been a better move as I am certain it is much easier to work with than what I ended up using. And probably not have cost any more. I would say "next time" but hopefully there won't be a next time.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Most likely If I asked for Fedhill. I'd get a deer in the headlights stare and they'd ask me if I was talking about Washington D.C.

 

I'll see if I can find a source for Fedhill. Once I get into the dissasembly there is a possibility of re-using the tubing that is installed. It's relatively new and rust free as the pictures show.

 

Did you notice my brake line runs under the radiator ? I think it's the same size there is a remote possibility of using that line for gas and re-routing the brake line (not that I want to do it that's a whole other venue and certainly a last resort). One way or another I'll get it worked out.

 

Anyone know the part number of the short flex line either shielded or unshieldid would work for me. Is Brake Line Flex Hose and Gas Line Flex Hose the same material and thread ? 

 

Hank    

Edited November 8, 2013 by HanksB3B

[Merle Coggins]

As I recall, the brake line followed the rear side of the cross member and the fuel line followed the front side of the cross member. I don't have pictures to confirm that. It's just how I remember it.

 

Merle

[ggdad1951]

I just bought from the web direct for Fedhill, So it took a few days for it to show up....no big deal.  And with the shipment came their awesome flare tool....I highly recommend it.  Takes the learning curve right out of it, even an engineer could use it!

 

I can snap a pic tonight of the brake line routing if you want.

Edited November 8, 2013 by ggdad1951

[HanksB3B]

Hey Hank,

                        I know you like to bunch your pictures in a group shot.....but they stay to small for my tired eyes. Any reason you like doing it that way that I don't get? When they come up one at a time, the images are much larger and easier to examine. And since you post interesting stuff, I wish I could see it better.

 

48D

 

It's just faster in some ways.  I'll try not to do that where detail and tired eyes dictate.

 

Mark it would be good to know the correct routing of the brake line.  I'm planning on posting a scan of the frame and maybe superimpose a two color line drawing so I'm not the only person benefiting from this thread.  

 

I have a general question: Is it safe to crawl under my truck using 3-ton jackstands and no redundant back-up like wood blocks?  I notice the the keyed and notched part of the jack stands are I guess cast iron ?

 

Thanks 

 

hank 

Edited November 8, 2013 by HanksB3B

[Young Ed]

You guys Fedhill is a brand not the type of tubing. There are other places that have the alloy brake line. I've even seen it on amazon. If I recall on amazon it was about $35 for a 25ft roll.