1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

[Desotodav]

Keep up the good work Paul.

Should always chock the wheel though... or wear a hard hat!...

[pflaming]

1) We wince when we walk under a car that's up on a very large fork lift which has a 2" bore lift cylinder, yet we drive our 2,500" cars 70 and 80 mph and depend on a small 1/4" cylinder to stop us. 

 

2) I cut and fit today. I think it's going to look ok for a novice fabricator. The tunnel from the old pan, reversed, made a perfect extension of the new pan's tunnel to reach to the housing tunnel over the clutch area. When it's all cleaned up, welded together and then coated with something, it's going to be just fine.

 

I set the seat in today and have to measure to confirm it's in the correct place.

 

I like the look of the dash. That would make a great "tech look" dash. Do all accents in black, etc.

 

Question. Is there a radio delete plate" and is there a small aluminum trim piece where the radio knobs go?'

 

Tomorrow will put this area in good shape maybe even ready to weld.

 

 

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Buy quality/commercial grade 10Ton  jack stands . The cheap small ones sold at Sears and Kragens ect are all  junk only to be used on Yugo's. If you buy commercial use stands you will never have to worry about the car falling on you.

No jack stands should be used on dirt or hot soft asphalt..for those who might want to try it.

Edited October 3, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[murfman1967]

Buy quality/commercial grade 10Ton  jack stands . The cheap small ones sold at Sears and Kragens ect are all  junk only to be used on Yugo's. If you buy commercial use stands you will never have to worry about the car falling on you.

No jack stands should be used on dirt or hot soft asphalt..for those who might want to try it.

 

The stands I had were indeed 10T made in the USA Commercial stands.  Not  the cheapy made in China crap they sell today, and it still happened.  I also gave the Jeep a few good shoves in each direction before getting under it.

[Scruffy49]

Radio delete plate? Why? I've got a couple old junker radios you can have as hole fillers. Dual voltage, dual polarity capable, choice of AM only or AM/FM/SW. No clue if either work, have never tested them. I got them to use as mock up props for my B1B. The AM only I have no clue who made it, the other on is a BMW, Porsche, Audi, Mercedes, or VW spec Blaupunkt. Surf rods NEED radios...

 

Kind of messing with you, but I do think it would look more accurate with an old type radio in the dash. Hide a good modern one somewhere else.

[pflaming]

A big thank you to Scruffy49 on the radio offer which I have accepted. I think I will mount a modern radio in the glove box opening, back set it so the door can close. That will hide it yet it will be very accessible. 

 

 

Today was spent making metal panels for the new floor. It's possibly the 'Scotch' in me but I'm using the metal from the old floor. Once its steam cleaned and the bead blasted it will work just fine. 

 

I had to take out some major formed channels so I used my truck. It worked fine.  I am putting the console from the T-Bird in and have the challenge of how to tie it into the firewall or the tranny tunnel. I could just cut it short, but I think extended will look best.

 

So here's to cuts and nicks, iodine, and progress. Will be at the coast for the weekend so some work in the morning then a brief time out.

 

 

 

 

[pflaming]

This morning I loosely mounted the console and then just set in the seats for a 'test' placement.  There are a few adjustments to make some of which will occur when I weld in the floor. But the seat / console combo is going to work out fine. The driver's seat will retain its power adjustment which will be nice. 

 

Gone now for the weekend, so everyone, have a good one. 

 

 

[murfman1967]

lookin good!

[ssnowden]

It's really coming together. Great work.

[Scruffy49]

Want to come to TN and do a Ranger floor into PH cab swap? That job on your car looks right decent. I'll get the radio dug out this weekend and sent next week.

[Desotodav]

Looks good Paul - sort of like an old car with a new twist!

[Dodgeb4ya]

 

Buy quality/commercial grade 10Ton  jack stands . The cheap small ones sold at Sears and Kragens ect are all  junk only to be used on Yugo's. If you buy commercial use stands you will never have to worry about the car falling on you.

No jack stands should be used on dirt or hot soft asphalt..for those who might want to try it.

 

The stands I had were indeed 10T made in the USA Commercial stands.  Not  the cheapy made in China crap they sell today, and it still happened.  I also gave the Jeep a few good shoves in each direction before getting under it.

 

Thats odd the car shifted. I've never had one properly placed  that shifted or fell on concrete in 40 years.

Odd things happen.

[Old Ray]

Monday morning question.  Something to consider, are you going to use the stock steering column or a donor (T-bird) one, if a donor it will sit a lot closer to the dash?

[pflaming]

I could consider the t-bird steering column, but I not one to mix and match and i'm too far along now to reset the floor.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I could consider the t-bird steering column, but I not one to mix and match and i'm too far along now to reset the floor.

 

so just how do you score that floor pan, bucket seats and console if not mix and match?  the changes made already has sent you over the top into the custom bracket...there is no real set line in the sand from here..while your idea may be not to make a whole list of changes..the logic in the explanation is very lacking..

 

Ray, not picking, but as for the steering column relationship to the dash and seat postion..your statement may in some model donors could have precedence, case is not always necessarily true...the 2004 donor in mine was so insignificant in difference as to basically say there were none..and to that I am very glad....however the due diligence to check is well pointed out...as I posted a few entries back, doing these mods is often not hard just involved and in does incorporate more than just cut and paste..

Edited October 5, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[JerseyHarold]

Paul,

 

Will you punch holes in the T-Bird floor to accept the original pedals or will you go with suspended pedals like the more modern cars?

[murfman1967]

Paul,

 

Will you punch holes in the T-Bird floor to accept the original pedals or will you go with suspended pedals like the more modern cars?

 

 

 

I have one of each in mine.  I am using the stock clutch pedal through the floor, with a brake booster on the firewall and a hanging brake pedal from a 63 Chrysler (just because that is what I had)  This way I did not have to mess with the clutch linkage, it is all stock.

Edited October 5, 2013 by murfman1967

[mrwrstory]

Forgive me Paul and murf but, are you two using the same camera or are Suburbans actually fuzzy in real life?  

[murfman1967]

Not sure about Paul's but mine is

[pflaming]

I,m staying stock. Thanks for the comment cause I forgot about them.

[falconvan]

Nice job on the floor, Paul! Very unique approach that makes a lot of sense.

[pflaming]

The idea was given to me by a forum member to whom I am very grateful.

[pflaming]

It is apparent that I must replace the rocker panels. They are not that bad, but bad in areas and I'm thinking it will be easier and a better rebuild with new rocker panels.

 

Question: Which supplier has been a good source for you?

 

Paul

[Plymouthy Adams]

Paul..it is my experience that if you cannot find an original pressed steel rocker as provided early by mopar for replacement..you just not going to get the proper J curve and please verify that the rocker is not convex..if it is, there is a good chance this very curve will not be incorporated in the average replacement rocker/cover as most are just straight breaks..

 

on the 49-52 the very ones that JC Whitney sells is a s good as the most expensive ones I have seen...and I have seen the most expensive one to be pure garbage for fit and have to return them..I was fortunate long ago to find a set of factory replacements..the sweetest metal to use..but am not sure you will find them today..I have not seen any for over 20 years..

 

While I do not recommend these guys for the P15's, but  C2C may well be a good source or your years....again..you got to know how they are fit to the car before you can select who and how they make their product as you will, you have to ask the key questions yourself...some will require quite a bit of rework to make them useable..other are a snap..main point is check for convex body here.

Edited October 10, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams

[pflaming]

Thanks TIm, will check that out tomorrow. I have two body mount gussets at the A posts that need some reinforcement. Then I can start fitting the floor pieces together. It gets a bit tedious after a while so much so that  at times I just walk away from it for a while.  Here are some picks of the mount. I put a second bottom to the gusset and a stirrup strap on the inner end. When welded together that will make a strong gusset. It is held in place by four large pop rivits which will be drilled out later.  Looks a little rough now but when formed and welded will be just fine. This is a utilitarian fix, not intended for show points.