Scary close call

[Jim Yergin]

Last Friday I had to travel about 100 miles from home for work. I drove my '41 Plymouth wagon. The car ran great. On the way home that evening I had driven about 50 miles (including about a 20 mile stretch on the interstate at 65-70 mph) when I heard a strange noise coming from the rear and then the car started to handle funny. I figured I had a flat tire and as soon as I could find a side street I pulled off the road. Just as I stopped the rear corner of the car collapsed. When I got out I found the rear wheel lying on the road. I have the AAJ rear disc brake set-up with studs rather than wheel bolts. It looks like two of the studs backed off, loosening the wheel and then the other three studs sheared off. I called AAA (it is good we have the Plus membership) and the roll-back got me home.

Other than the sheared off studs and a damaged wheel, the only other damage is the bottom of the rear fender that got curled up when the rear corner hit the ground. Nothing that can't be fixed or replaced.

I just am very lucky that it did not happen on the interstate. It has also taught me not to assume anything and checking my wheel nuts and studs will be a regular maintenance item.

Jim Yergin

[Young Ed]

Glad you're ok and got the car home safe.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I just mounted and balanced four tires on my daily last week..I have driven it approx 60 miles..it is time for a recheck using the torque wrench..I try to do this eveytime I disturb a wheel..

thanks for the heads up...glad you came as as well as you did given the alternative..

[Don Coatney]

Upon returning home from a 700 mile trip last year I found this as pictured below. Taught me to inspect all lug nuts prior to hitting the road.

[greg g]

My dad always told me to check my nuts frequently.....

Glad you are OK. That happened to un when we were Driving my Nephews car in Fla. Heard that telltale noise, pulled over and found the wheel nust all loosened about the same amount ant the wheel flopping. He ad his Dad had just done brake pads the week before. A quick look at the other wheels found three to be in just about the same situation. Apparently they both thought the other had done the final tightening, when neither did due to impending darkness and beer.

Edited August 7, 2012 by greg g

[Dodgeb4ya]

Possibly the new studs were not pulled completely tight and flush to the back of the hub or rotor upon first time new assembly? That could explain why the stud damage and wheel coming off.

Bob

[dezeldoc]

Upon returning home from a 700 mile trip last year I found this as pictured below. Taught me to inspect all lug nuts prior to hitting the road.

The biggest cause of this is. the guy that mounted it and tightened the wheel did not hit the first one that they tightened again. The first one tightened will always be looser than the rest as it had to pull the wheel up tight to the drum/rotor, and the rest when tightened will pull the wheel tighter and make the first one looser than the rest. I always go around at least 3 times..

[Don Coatney]

This is a true story. A guy I worked with had removed all 4 wheels in his driveway at home. He replaced the wheels and removed the jack. Drove to work and parked the car. Left work and drove to until he came to the first stoplight when all four wheels fell off and the car hit the ground. Seems he forgot to replace the lug nuts.

[Chester Brzostowski]

Hi Jim,

Glad that you and the car are OK. Years ago while making a left turn with my 67 Camero the drive shafts decided to go there own way. I looked in the rear view mirror and saw my rear wheel about a foot and a half from the wheel well. Then the car hit the ground and I watched both wheels keep going. It sucked at the time but a great story today. Sometimes I think getting to where you expect to go, is really an accident.

Chet...

[chopt50wgn]

Have a good buddy with a 50 chev sedan delivery. Was at his shop the other day and he had the car and told me that he has always wondered why the rear shook and wobbled. He chalked it up to maybe a bad bearing or something in the rear.

Here he put on some torque thrusts with the lugs with a shoulder. He never checked to see if the shoulder bottomed out on the threads to tighten the lug. It didn't and there was his wobble. He took off all the lugs and cut the length of the shoulders down an 1/8" each on his lathe........Problem solved.

[Joe Flanagan]

This is an interesting subject since I'm planning a 500-mile trip up to Massachusetts in my 56 Chevy pickup. I think I've addressed everything that could go wrong but this thread definitely has me double-checking a few things.

[Don G 1947]

I..I have driven it approx 60 miles..it is time for a recheck using the torque wrench..I try to do this eveytime I disturb a wheel..alternative..

What is the proper torque for original lug bolts on these vehicles?

Don

[Plymouthy Adams]

1/2-20 lug nuts usually torque between 80 and 90 ft lb...I set my wrench on 85 and let the big dog eat..it's a size/grade/thread standard..

[TodFitch]

What is the proper torque for original lug bolts on these vehicles?

Don

The '36-42 Plymouth factory service manual calls for 58.5-66.5 ft-lbs on the wheel hub bolts. Part number for those bolts are the same as for '46-48. I haven't noticed the spec for those fasteners in the '46-54 factory service manual.

Edited August 8, 2012 by TodFitch

[Plymouthy Adams]

I did not see the specs either in the book..I did look..I will stick with the default grade torque..

[pflaming]

Dad taught me to put on three nuts in a triangular pattern and snug them up. By snugging three the rim will be centered to all nuts and all nuts will be properly set in their respective holes. Then after adding the remaining two, to then start torquing them and go three times. That ensures: (1) all have been tightened and (2) all are very similiar.

I always have one of those X tire wrenches in each of my vechicals. The four socket sizes are very nice if you have to help someone on the road.

[TodFitch]

Dad taught me to put on three nuts in a triangular pattern and snug them up. By snugging three the rim will be centered to all nuts and all nuts will be properly set in their respective holes. Then after adding the remaining two, to then start torquing them and go three times. That ensures: (1) all have been tightened and (2) all are very similiar.

Grandfather had a simple rule for any re-assembly: The last fastener started is the first to get tightened. Sure helps get covers, wheels, etc. pretty well centered.

For wheels specifically, I've pretty nearly always had vehicles with 5 bolt wheels. And on those I do a star pattern, the first time to just a bit more than finger tight then two more passes getting them tighter. And then at least one more time once the wheel is on the ground. Never had them come undone.

I did, however, once forget to put in a rear axle cotter pin. Turned out to be a very, very, very bad move. Fortunately the wheel came off at very low speed in front of a garage that had a floor jack low enough to get under the axle when it was resting on the brake backing plate and I was able to get everything back together in just a few minutes.