PLEASE tell me this isn't a crack!

[ggdad1951]

I'm thinking it is and now I wonder what to do. Started out as a dark brown line, now it seems to have leaked some "stuff" that tails down the block from it. Do I drive, do I get it fixed right away? Can I get it fixed w/o pulling the engine?

Advice guys?

[Dave72dt]

looks to be in the area of the breather. Possibly nothing more than some moisture dripping from the cap and splashed on the block. Now that it's being run more, it may be working some condensation out.

[Don Coatney]

Were it me, I would use a drill powered wire brush to clean the area and get a good look. Easily could be moisture trapped under a paint bubble. If it is a true leak, as small as it appears, I would first try Barrs-stop leak or any other radiator sealent. Unlike snake oil addatives these stop leak products do work.

[Plymouthy Adams]

there is a block sealant out there that has metal brass/copper looking filing in it..there is a special procedure for use and if followed per instructions, will make a believer out of most folks...this stuff works..it is less than 12.00..I have a bottle here for emergencies..I am not a fond believer in snake oils but for limp in situations..it may be just the ticket home..

[NiftyFifty]

JB weld.... Clean off the paint then give it a nice line of that and repaint... Many an old tractor block fixed with that stuff and in a hidden spot not that bad

[Jeff Balazs]

Mark;

I really hate to say it....but it seems like Hank was right.

That darned silver paint show's everything!

It may be nothing or at worst a tiny pin hole type leak that block sealer will take care of. I imagine though that it probably ruined your day when you spotted it. What a roller coaster ride these old trucks are huh?

Hang in there man.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

LOL Jeff. I'm with 4mula-dlx on the JB Weld. Kind of related I used it to "weld" a small turn handle used on a metal dish drain screen. It is constantly used in a wet condition and has held up outstandingly under a torque condition.

There is probably not a whole lot of pressure within the water jacket do you thinhk? What will be important Mark is that you clean the surrounding area and dremel the crack to the point of bonding to good clean cast iron.

Hope it works,

Hank

[Jeff Balazs]

I think JB Weld is a very useful product. I just don't think it should be the first choice fix for something like this.

In my opinion removing additional material could make things a whole lot worse. And if it opened up much it would very likely take the block sealer option off the table.

For what it is worth if there is an actual leak on Marks block I would clean the surface and clearly mark the area of the crack or hole. Then I would use a block sealer and watch it closely over a period of use. Make certain it gets up to operating temp more than one cycle. There will be some pressure involved and to really test it you could use say a 7# (or higher) cap on the radiator.

They way the block sealer works (from the inside) once it has stopped the leak it is very unlikely to dislodge. And if it doesn't work you can still try the JB Weld method.

Jeff

[Tom Skinner]

Looks like your knuckles were bleeding and some got on the block.

I wouldn't get bent out of shape about this unless it appears to worsen.

Tom

[ggdad1951]

gonna do some sort of stop leak stuff for short term, may try that snake oil Tim talked about or Bars. Just got off the phone with the company that redid my block and they feel they can fix it w/o pulling the engine! So in a few weeks FEF will take a trip and have a few days rest someplace while he has heart surgury. I just need to keep him going for 2 more weeks and then deal with it.

thanks for all the advice guys!

[Young Ed]

If its only 2 weeks I don't think I'd do anything. Too much a chance of clogging up something else.

[dmulhall]

Could be just a minor flaw in the casting?? No expert of course, just my opinion, I have seen somewhat of the same thing on old tractor blocks...

Wire brush on drill or side grinder, clean with brake clean, jb weld it and forget about it (in my opinion)

[ggdad1951]

coming back to revisit this issue.

My nice silver block has some nice snake trails from the coolant that's burned on the block. The leak hasn't seemd to get any worse and I have not noticed any appreciable drop in the rad coolant level. Almost like it seals up after heating up and not letting more out as it seems to be just one line of coolant after each clean up.

I REALLY want to fix the block prperly, but doubt it'll be easy considering where the crack is and that the engine is in and has the body panels around it.

I called up Bars and asked if they have a product that works and was told it needs PRESSURE to work...so do I try that prior to the JB weld (which I'm sure I could make pretty good) hoping it'll get in there? Remember this is a zero pressure system. I also WORRY about the heater core control valve...I spent GOOD money for the NOS valve and don't want it seizing up on me....

Thoughts guys?

[beyert99]

Mark,

I have used JB weld twice... Once to repair a few cracks in my row boat, and at the firehouse to repair a pin hole leak on the radiator of the generator. Both times it worked great and stopped the leaks, and that was a few years ago. Still holding today. Make sure the area is clean prior to use.

The row boat looked like that AFLAC commercial prior to the JB weld.

Tim

[Jeff Balazs]

Mark;

I would try the stop leak first. Then go over the area with the JB weld once the leak has stopped.

You should be able to put a low pressure cap (say 4# or less) on temporarily and bypass the heater as well until it seals up. Once it is sealed drain the mixture out and decant it for a few days then top up with fresh coolant if you are worried about it causing other problems. By doing it this way you should have the best possible fix without pulling the engine.

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Mark;

I would try the stop leak first. Then go over the area with the JB weld once the leak has stopped.

You should be able to put a low pressure cap (say 4# or less) on temporarily and bypass the heater as well until it seals up. Once it is sealed drain the mixture out and decant it for a few days then top up with fresh coolant if you are worried about it causing other problems. By doing it this way you should have the best possible fix without pulling the engine.

Jeff

I like the thought of doing both..

so just leave the heater control valve shut off? Or would it be better to keep cycling it during the "seal up"? Again, I REALLY worry about siezing up the valve stem....BTW, not very easy to remove the valve, if possible at all even.

what do you mean by decant it?

[Jeff Balazs]

Mark;

Just shut the valve off. Stop leak shouldn't cause a problem with a closed valve....and there is no point in flowing it through the heater core unless it has a leak.

If you want to reuse the old coolant you may be able to decant it for a few days to allow the excess stop leak material to drop out. A very simple form of basic separation. Depends on how frugal you wish to be. I have used this technique to save a few tanks of gasoline that has had a slug of water, etc in it a several times. Very effective if you are careful not to shake it while decanting.

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Mark;

Just shut the valve off. Stop leak shouldn't cause a problem with a closed valve....and there is no point in flowing it through the heater core unless it has a leak.

If you want to reuse the old coolant you may be able to decant it for a few days to allow the excess stop leak material to drop out. A very simple form of basic separation. Depends on how frugal you wish to be. I have used this technique to save a few tanks of gasoline that has had a slug of water, etc in it a several times. Very effective if you are careful not to shake it while decanting.

Jeff

OK I figured that's what you meant by decanting, just wanted to make sure....

now the question is where to get a low as possible pressure cap

[wallytoo]

if the "leak" is coming out the side of the block, rather than from the head gasket area, i'd just clean the area and try jb weld on it. no real reason to put stop leak into the sytem if you can solve it from the exterior.

wally

[Jerry Roberts]

Another way to save your antifreeze is to drain it first and set it aside , using water with your sealant and then draining the water out . Just follow the instructions on your sealant .

[ggdad1951]

well, today I bit the bullet and used the Bars rad pellets....stuck 8 of them in some water and disolved tehm and ran FEF for half an hour. Let him cool down and then drove to the local Culver's for hotrod night and when I got home.....no coolant on the side of the block! So HOPEFULLY fixed! I'll monitor it for a little bit yet before painting over.

[Jeff Balazs]

Mark;

Good deal. Now if you go over it with JB weld and repaint you will have the best of both worlds.

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Mark;

Good deal. Now if you go over it with JB weld and repaint you will have the best of both worlds.

Jeff

that's the plan...if I pock the JB well enough it'll hide well behind the breather tube and NO ONE will know....well except yous guys!

[Plymouthy Adams]

just like carpentry work..cut to fit, caulk and paint to hide..

[Jeff Balazs]

just like carpentry work..cut to fit, caulk and paint to hide..

Well sort of .....but maybe more like glued, sealed and painted.

In my opinion doing it the way you have done reduces the chance of future failure dramatically. Stop leak products work best when there is a bit of flow....and not so much on a tiny weep that might have occurred with the JB Weld if you had used it first.

Jeff