TodFitch Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 An empty cab can be handled by 2, 3 or 4, people depending on their lift capacity. Empty cab means the seat is out and the doors are off. You'll want to inspect and rebuild as needed the suspension and steering while it's out in the open as well as replace the brake and fuel lines. Get your tape measure out and check diagonals to ensure the frame is straight. I found that having the glass in the body made a huge difference in weight on my two door sedan. Truck cab will have less glass, but I imagine there is still a few pounds of it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 I found that having the glass in the body made a huge difference in weight on my two door sedan. Truck cab will have less glass, but I imagine there is still a few pounds of it there. Your right! Last pic shows the doors off and the glass out so it shouldn't be too bad. Don't forget the fuel fill tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 (edited) Remove the steering collum by removing the nut on the pitman arm, the drag link, three frame bolts and the bracket under the dash. If you have a collum shift, remove linkage as well. No need to remove the steering wheel at this point, just get the darn thing out of the way. Remove all firewall wiring and hoses. remove all carb linkage. Remove the radiator suppport rods if you have them (forget what year they stop...51?) If you haven't removed the floor panels, its ok, long as you got the steering out of the way. There are 4 frame mounts with 4 bolts. The rear bolts are below the cab surface, sometimes with a dust cap still installed. Pop'em off with a screw driver. Once you have the bolts removed and you are ready to "rock and roll" block the cab up first (use a floor jack) to get the bolt sleeves out......sometimes they bond themsleves to the rubber pucks and act as irritants when trying to remove the cab...murphy's law, always the last one that's gonna tick you off. with the cab now free.....call your friends. point the truck out the door....pick up the cab.....roll the frame out the door....put cab down. The cab has what I call a "skirt of sheet metal" around the sides and the back...not a good way to set the cab down. I would build a "table" that fits under the cab against the floor. There are several different ways to actually lift the cab: (1) stretcher style (long boards, etc) (2) engine hoist with the end piece flipped over and attaching a wood I beam (crosses to both window openings) (3) fork lift with a modified fork attachment (something I made..lol) 48D Edited November 20, 2013 by 48dodger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 (edited) as stated 3-4 guys in decent shape should have no problem. I had 6 to put the painted cab back on just to have enough eyes watching, but two guys can lift an empty cab with a little grunting (say off a trailer or to move around the shop). Steering wheel/column should be out of the way (i didn't and it made it more difficult) and if you have a floor mount shift put it as far down as you can. Edited November 19, 2013 by ggdad1951 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Thanks everyone that's all very helpful advice. I greatly appreciate it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Look very carefully for a crack in the frame right where that running board bracket attaches on the left (drivers side) this has been a weak spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) I didn't notice a crack there yet but I do have this one! I took all the electrical out this afternoon. Gauges switches etc. and had a helper for a bit!! Whats the best procedure to repair a crack? Edited November 20, 2013 by RobRobitaille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
52b3b Joe Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 My truck had half a dozen or so cracks in the frame. I don't know if its the "right" way or not, but I ground them down and V'ed them a little then I drilled a small hole where the crack seemed to start and one where it ended, then I hit them with the welder and forgot about them. I'll keep an eye open at the areas they were at when I crawl under it, but I don't think I'll have a problem with them anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 The way Joe describes it is exactly how i would go about fixing the cracks. If you want extra assurance weld a plate on either side over the newly welded crack and you'll be good to go. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 That sounds simple enough! I think I may box in the frame ahead of the bell housing anyway just to make me feel better about it. I got the cab almost ready for the guys to lift off. Just need to remove the mount bolts and the steering box. I pulled the tranny so we don't have to lift too high and it needs to come out anyway to make room for the T5. I noticed looking over the transmissions that the T5 input shaft is about 3/4" shorter then the original. Is this normal or are there different lengths available in the T5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Looks about the same as mine. I don't have mine running yet but on the bench it seems ok.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Well the cab is ready to come off! Just need to make something to set it on and round up some guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Good memories come from hard work, I always say. Take pictures and share'em here! Good Luck! 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Good memories come from hard work, I always say. Take pictures and share'em here! Good Luck! 48D So true! My brother in-law stopped in shortly after I got home from work this morning. We decided to try to lift the cab off just the 2 of us. I was not as bad as I expected but we are both fairly big guys and are accustom to physical labor. So now the cab is put away on blocks in the back shed and the frame is ready for me to start to work on. If it stops snowing I may go outside and take the rear diff out of the Explorer so I can get that heap out of the driveway It feels good to have things moving along!!! Also any one know where to get these mounts for the bell housing? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Congrats! If you are looking for new rubber mounts....Roberts has them. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Just know the driver front mount is different and a harder rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Mark; I thought Rob was referring to the bell housing mounting pads. If so Roberts has the correct item. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
52b3b Joe Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Another tip...make sure you save all of the bushings for those engine mounts and cab mounts. I miss-placed some of mine due to not taking the time to label and store them correctly. I made new ones from black pipe which was very easy but easily avoidable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Oops....need to read! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Well I got the T5 mounted this afternoon the old pilot bushing gave me some grief. I find it amazing just how much the T5 looks like it belongs there. There is a guy with a shop about 45 min from my place he calls Dodge City I think I will go see him about the bell housing and engine mounts. I want everything to be sitting in the right place before I put the explorer rear diff in so that I can get the pinion angle matched up as good as I can. Also are drag links available or is there a way to put new ends on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Sounds like a good plan to me. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Hi Found a guy that will soda blast the frame for $300-$400 I have know idea if this sounds like a good price or not any advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 sounds about right I'd say.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 It's important I'd say. You only live once go for it ! Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 (edited) This truck is going to be a driver to haul our toys around on a low budget rebuild so. I was also looking at that Rust Bullet they say wire brush it down and paint! Anyone use it? $400 would maybe be better used for brakes wiring harness etc. Edited November 27, 2013 by RobRobitaille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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