She Runs 1955 Dodge/Fargo 251

[55 Fargo]

Here ya go, filled gas tank with some fuel, primed the carb, and got fuel up to carb right pronto. Oil pressure is stable, was about 50-55, GM 1 wire alt, started to charge right quick too.

Please excus truck, as she is still in raw c form, she actually looks better in daylight outside, rough now, will be nice later.

[1950 Special Deluxe]

Congratulations.

Sounds good.

[randroid]

Fred,

Well done!

'Nuff said.

-Randy

[55 Fargo]

Thanx, I really could not have done it, without the help for this Fourm and it's Members. Tim Adams was especially helpful, in troubleshooting the distributor problem.

[greg g]

AWWWRIIIGHT!!! Now get the the thing driving and stopping and sign up to be Bamfords support vehicle for thier north of the circle trip.............

[littlemo]

GO ROCKWOOD, GO !!!

[Niel Hoback]

Beauty, eh? You gotta love that sound, right between a purr and a roar.

[55 Fargo]

AWWWRIIIGHT!!! Now get the the thing driving and stopping and sign up to be Bamfords support vehicle for thier north of the circle trip.............

The way the weather is here today, seems like north of the circle.

Good thing I have a nice insulated heated building, or I would be getting this thing going, this time of the year. If I have time, going to fill with collant tomorrow, and see what she does...

[RobertKB]

Wait-a-go, Fred. Now you are having fun!

[oldodge41]

Nice going! Congrats!

[Frank Elder]

Varoooom!

[1940plymouth]

Congrats to you, sure sounds good

[bamfordsgarage]

Good news, Fred. Congratulations — first fire is such a great day.

One of these days I have to get over to Winnipeg so we can have a visit. My bride has friends up in Cross Lake and they regularly agitate for us to come by for a few days.

Or, like Greg suggests, you can whip it into shape for our run north.

[55 Fargo]

Good news, Fred. Congratulations — first fire is such a great day.

One of these days I have to get over to Winnipeg so we can have a visit. My bride has friends up in Cross Lake and they regularly agitate for us to come by for a few days.

Or, like Greg suggests, you can whip it into shape for our run north.

Hey Thanx Chris, and yes by all means, when in the Winnipeg area, lets get togther.

Cross Lake, thats up north country.

Don't think my Truck will be ready in time for the high arctic tour, not real sure how good this engine is yet either. I do my trnas has some wear and damage, like 1st and 3rd, are a little chewed up.

The mopar 8 1/4 rear end, with 3.23 gears seems to be in good form....

[55 Fargo]

Congrats to you' date=' sure sounds good[/quote']

Bob, in the video, do you see something atached to the steering column, it is from New York....

[1940plymouth]

Just read your post and looked at the video again, yes in deed, I see it:)

[55 Fargo]

Just dropped the oil out of this engine, although it was dark, it was super clean, not gunk or particles, or moisture, old oil looked very clean.

I refilled with a cheaper brand 10 W 3, and will change this oil too, after a short time.

It is cool here now so this oil should be okay.

I adjusted the throttle linkage, it idles down okay.

I am going to fill cooling system, soon, and adjust timing carb etc.

If all goes okay, I will be able to move this truck in and out of the shop, as needed.

This truck starts very easy with manual choke and 12 volt system, I plan to create a direct circuit for the coil, around the ballast for start-up only, that will spark her up.

Forgot how nice and loud these old flatheads howl without mufflers.

If its dry next week, will take a drive in her, just on my road.....

[48Dodger]

Hey Rockwood,

Just here to remind you man....you're a truck guy now....lol.

Its Ok to post on the "other side"....

48D

[greg g]

Has that got a key start or a stomp switch??? In any case, a line from the starter post to the coil with a diod in it will provide 12 v to the coil while the starter spins, and then through the resister when the key is released or the stomp is released. The diod will prevent the coil terminal from trying to back feed the starter terminal. This basically mimicks the way the ford 4 terminal solenoid works. If you are running through a solenoid, the purchase of one of those types will solve your problem for about 30 bucks or less, and you will have a new solenoid in the bargain.

If you have a key switch, then run a wire from the starter terminal to the coil, when you release the key the circuit is disconnected so you dont need the diode.

[55 Fargo]

Has that got a key start or a stomp switch??? In any case, a line from the starter post to the coil with a diod in it will provide 12 v to the coil while the starter spins, and then through the resister when the key is released or the stomp is released. The diod will prevent the coil terminal from trying to back feed the starter terminal. This basically mimicks the way the ford 4 terminal solenoid works. If you are running through a solenoid, the purchase of one of those types will solve your problem for about 30 bucks or less, and you will have a new solenoid in the bargain.

If you have a key switch, then run a wire from the starter terminal to the coil, when you release the key the circuit is disconnected so you dont need the diode.

I was thinking about going with the solenoid switch route, but I do have a stomp switch.

I figure with a circuit from the crank position on the ignition switch direct to the coil, can also provide 12 volts to the coil, and once started, you release the key, and then it goes through the ballast resistor to coil, does that make sense?

Do I need a solenoid switch with a foot stomp start, I am going to install a battery cut-off switch, as the foot stomp style starter, has immediate power, when the battery is hooked up, and the key is off, it wont start, but will crank, not the greatest thing, with Kids around....

[greg g]

To make it simple, run a wire from the starter cable lug, to a toggle switch on the dash, then to the negative coil terminal. When the toggle is closed, it will power the coil straight from the starter. After it starts, opening the switch will stop the 12 V going to the coil which will now be fed through the ign. switch and the ballast resister. But you need to cut the feed as soon as the engine starts.

[randroid]

Fred,

Unless I missed something it seems as though you're going through too much trouble. My brother had a '76 Dodge truck that went through a ballast resistor so often that he carried a spare with a screwdriver in the glove box. I replaced it once and I seem to recall it had a wiring diagram with it and, since you're planning on running wire anyway, I'd like to suggest you make it stock. If for some reason it ever needs attention again the next guy to work on it (your son) won't need to trace any wires and speak quietly but disparagingly of the marital status of your parents when you were born.

-Randy

[55 Fargo]

Randy, for the ballast to function, it must have 12 volts power in, then reduced voltage out to coil, as simple as that, bypassing the ballast on start-up, should not affect the ballast or it's longevity, if anything, it will affect the coil itself.

I may just leavit as is for now, running through the ballast at all times.

My big plan is to install a slant 6 electronic igntion and distributor, which requires some modding, but should work well...

[Merle Coggins]

To make it simple, run a wire from the starter cable lug, to a toggle switch on the dash, then to the negative coil terminal. When the toggle is closed, it will power the coil straight from the starter. After it starts, opening the switch will stop the 12 V going to the coil which will now be fed through the ign. switch and the ballast resister. But you need to cut the feed as soon as the engine starts.

That would work fine, but I'd use a momentary switch so it can't be left on inadvertantly. It would be similar to how Fred described using the crank position of his ign. switch.

Merle

[randroid]

Randy, for the ballast to function, it must have 12 volts power in, then reduced voltage out to coil, as simple as that

Fred,

What I'm getting at is the ballast resistor does just that; when it's cold it has little resistance but as it gets warm, which happens rather quickly, the resistance increases until there's only six volts going through. It isn't instantaneous, like a switch would be, but it doesn't need to be. And the voltage doesn't drop all at once, like stepping off of a stair, but as soon as juice starts flowing through it the resistance rises so it isn't as though you're running 12v through the coil and points for five minutes then suddenly it changes.

Like I said, maybe I'm missing something but it seems as though you're adding a circuit in a repetitious redundancy. I'll go back to my own corner now and pout quietly to myself.

-Randy