ggdad1951 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Posted February 12, 2014 well tank back on after 2 hours of dinking around. Sure seems like it took less time to drop the tank. The springs in the rear still puzzle me if they really do anything. I can push up on the tank a bit so it "floats" a bit, but I KNOW when I tore it down that was all rusted solid. Regardless, tank on, 4 gallons put back in. Gauge needle ticks "up" when you turn the key so I should have good ground still. 4 gallons didn't move the needle really, but that can easily be that the float is set slightly high from the bottom of the tank/4 gallons isn't really that much really in that monster of a tank. Anyone know the TRUE volume of these tanks? Lord know I don't want to deal with sending unit issue again. The final diagnosis from TankRenu was no leak, just a improperly seated sending unit that let gas leak out and run down...pressure tested twice as "good". Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 Lord know I don't want to deal with sending unit issue again. I'm with you on that one, but unfortunately it looks as though restorating my fuel sending unit was a failure and now I'll have to drain the tank once again lower the tank once again and install the JC Whitney, one size fits all, (modification required), 6 volt sending unit. Hey Davin are you up for that? You've been there done that. We could fill the tank with beer on the test run and figure out how many gallons it holds and then let Mark know. Quote
Desotodav Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 I'm with you on that one, but unfortunately it looks as though restorating my fuel sending unit was a failure and now I'll have to drain the tank once again lower the tank once again and install the JC Whitney, one size fits all, (modification required), 6 volt sending unit. Hey Davin are you up for that? You've been there done that. We could fill the tank with beer on the test run and figure out how many gallons it holds and then let Mark know. Hank, count me in on that mate! Mark, the glovebox book that i have says that the gas tank capacity is 15 gallons in all models from 1-08 to 8-71-D.. Quote
48Dodger Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 The springs in the rear still puzzle me if they really do anything. I can push up on the tank a bit so it "floats" a bit, but I KNOW when I tore it down that was all rusted solid. My educated guess is frame flex. To keep the tank from acting as a stablizer or crossmember under load, the springs allow the tank to stay in its original location. Thats all I got. 48D Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 I agree with Tim. It keeps the tank from flexing with the frame. However, like Mark noted, the springs and spacers rust tight over time so their benefit is lost. I also thought there was a 17 gallon tank option, but I don't have my books handy to look it up. I believe 15 gallon is right though, so 4 gallons should give you about a 1/4 tank. Merle Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Posted February 12, 2014 (edited) I agree with Tim. It keeps the tank from flexing with the frame. However, like Mark noted, the springs and spacers rust tight over time so their benefit is lost. I also thought there was a 17 gallon tank option, but I don't have my books handy to look it up. I believe 15 gallon is right though, so 4 gallons should give you about a 1/4 tank. Merle I know it's what the springs are SUPPOSED to do..I wonder if it really does tho....anyway I'm REALY hoping it's just that the float arm is not down far enough yet.....what a PITA! I put back in the sending unit that TankRenu put in when they first did the refurb but the float leaked, see up a ways in this tread (float was supposedly fixed recently). TankRenu also said the sender tested out ok. Granted you can replace the sender through the floor, seating it isn't all that easy and right now it's seated "right" and "sealed" per a pressure test. Edited February 12, 2014 by ggdad1951 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 Mark; My take on the rear tank mount is that it allows the frame to flex and twist without putting strain on the tank itself. These mounts I believe are an area which should be maintained and checked routinely. I have sprayed mine with PB corrosion guard. Maybe someday someone will rig a camera up to show us all just how much these frames flex and twist during actual use. Based on my observations during the straightening process of my frame I would bet you would all be a bit surprised. In particular the center bolt in cross member see's a lot of external forces transmitted to it. Jeff Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Posted February 12, 2014 Mark; My take on the rear tank mount is that it allows the frame to flex and twist without putting strain on the tank itself. These mounts I believe are an area which should be maintained and checked routinely. I have sprayed mine with PB corrosion guard. Maybe someday someone will rig a camera up to show us all just how much these frames flex and twist during actual use. Based on my observations during the straightening process of my frame I would bet you would all be a bit surprised. In particular the center bolt in cross member see's a lot of external forces transmitted to it. Jeff my springs and bolts there are stainless and a titanium tube for the spacer, no corrosion for me! Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 my springs and bolts there are stainless and a titanium tube for the spacer, no corrosion for me! It is pretty much bone dry here.......so corrosion isn't really an issue ........ but then you never know where it is going to wind up either. That PB corrosion guard is neat stuff .......penetrates and lubes as well as the protection it offers. If I lived in another region.....say your neck of the woods....I would always have several cans of it. As it is I am glad to have it in my bag of tricks. Jeff Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Posted February 12, 2014 It is pretty much bone dry here.......so corrosion isn't really an issue ........ but then you never know where it is going to wind up either. That PB corrosion guard is neat stuff .......penetrates and lubes as well as the protection it offers. If I lived in another region.....say your neck of the woods....I would always have several cans of it. As it is I am glad to have it in my bag of tricks. Jeff It is pretty much bone dry here.......so corrosion isn't really an issue ........ but then you never know where it is going to wind up either. That PB corrosion guard is neat stuff .......penetrates and lubes as well as the protection it offers. If I lived in another region.....say your neck of the woods....I would always have several cans of it. As it is I am glad to have it in my bag of tricks. Jeff been using it for 10 years Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 Well I suppose because it is so dry here I never saw it on the shelves until this last year. Prior to that I used a product that Mercury Marine developed years ago. The PB stuff is a better deal though at about 4$ a can. Jeff Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Posted February 24, 2014 (edited) thanks to a VERY helpful forum member...I picked this up! A NOS PASSENGER side mirror arm! Thanks for the tip! Now I need a door pin and mirror for this. Edited February 24, 2014 by ggdad1951 1 Quote
Todd B Posted February 24, 2014 Report Posted February 24, 2014 Are you sure tha is our era NOS bracket?? Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Posted February 24, 2014 Are you sure tha is our era NOS bracket?? mirror image of my original. 1 Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 25, 2014 Report Posted February 25, 2014 Looks manufactureable. Nice Find Mark ! Hank But I thought these were correct for the 51-53 Series Hank Quote
52b3b Joe Posted February 25, 2014 Report Posted February 25, 2014 Looks manufactureable. Nice Find Mark ! Hank But I thought these were correct for the 51-53 Series Hank I think those are correct for larger trucks. My 52 1/2 ton has the same style as Mark's. Quote
pflaming Posted February 25, 2014 Report Posted February 25, 2014 RE; fuel gauge. I have the geri can as a reserve tank. If/when I run out, I just switch the valve and head for a filling station, memories of former VW days. They had the valve handle on the fire wall and one could flip that with your foot and barely slow down. Nice feature. Quote
TheMoose Posted February 25, 2014 Report Posted February 25, 2014 thanks to a VERY helpful forum member...I picked this up! A NOS PASSENGER side mirror arm! Thanks for the tip! Now I need a door pin and mirror for this. Nice! As it happens I'm also looking for the mounting pin & a mirror for one of those! Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 25, 2014 Report Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Wasn't that on ebay? ........ Probably so. Edited February 26, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Posted February 25, 2014 I think those are correct for larger trucks. My 52 1/2 ton has the same style as Mark's. correct, the 1.5 plus sizes used those. Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 26, 2014 Report Posted February 26, 2014 I'm not switching they came with my truck. Never trust a P.O. Hank Quote
ggdad1951 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Posted March 8, 2014 FIANLLY got my visors done, it's been a journey, but finally done. Yes, it IS a passenger side arm. 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Posted April 25, 2014 after almost 1 year and two parts I finally got a great restoration done on a hood ornament. All the details kept and not buffed round. I'll pop this on FEF maybe tomorrow. 1 Quote
ruff1148kr Posted April 25, 2014 Report Posted April 25, 2014 Visors, Interior and the ornament look great Quote
Desotodav Posted April 26, 2014 Report Posted April 26, 2014 Looking good Mark. You must just about be done on the FEF truck now hey? Quote
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