Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all. I found this site searching for some info on my 57 pickup I'm working on. Its a little out of the date range but still close enough that I'm sure I'll find lots of helpful info.

The truck was in good restorable shape when I bought it a month ago. the body panels were rusted but solid. The motor has half tore a part for over 30 years. My wife was the one who originally wanted the truck. She is a professional photographer and thought it would make a good prop if I could get it painted. Now I'm into restoring it and its definitely my truck and not hers. My plans are to put a new drivetrain in. I have a stock 2 brl 318 out of an 85 ram I got for free. I wanted to use the original 3 in the tree but have not found any info on mating the LA motor to the old bellhousing. I'll probably have to settle with a 727 or 904.

I don't care for driving an open dif 2wd truck where I live so I'm putting in a chrysler 8 3/4 posi rear end in it. I want to drive it a good bit once its "finished". I'm not much for having just a show truck.

I'll be restoring the wooden bed and probably use the same wood to make some matching running boards as mine are completely rusted out. front disk brakes and a newer master cylinder. The interior panels need replaced, not sure about how to do this so if any one has any suggestions I'd love to here them. I'll be painting it a blue metallic/pearl.

any of the drivetrain parts are for sale if anyone is interested. I'll post a thread up later once all are pulled/inspected. Its a 315 with a 3 speed on the column. its a long bed and the rear axle is good minus one missing drum.

I welcome any suggestions/ideas. Thanks

Posted

That looks like a lot of work for 3cubes :D

Looks like quite the fun project-enjoy it.

Posted

Welcome!

Its too bad you're on the other side of the country, I'd definitely hit you up for that 315. Do you just have the block, or do you have the heads and everything else too?

As far as mating a 3 speed to the 318, there was a 3-speed transmission that was used back in the 60's and 70's that came with the 318. Most folks swap them out with 4 speeds, so they're usually pretty cheap. I think they use the same bellhousing as the 833 four speeds, but I'm not 100% on that one. You can probably modify the shift linkage to make it work with the 3 on the tree set up.

Just thinking too, 904's and 727's are 3 speeds too. If you put a manual valve body on one of those auto's, you could probably modify the shift linkage to work with the auto also. It wouldn't be the same as shifting the original 3 speed, more like a later auto with a shifter on the column, but it would look stock...

Posted

There is only one truck. getting a full restoration.

Its mostly just the block. the crank,cam and pistons are still there but the pushrods were removed along with the intake , water pump, ac compressor and heads. My cousin (who I bought the truck off of) has the heads somewhere. I didn't push him to find them because I have no need for them. However if someone is interested I will definitely see if we can find them.

My cousin is cleaning up his garage this weekend and looking for a 4 speed stick he used to have for his mid 80's wrecker. It has a manual clutch assembly which should be to easy to adapt to fit the current setup. hopefully he can find it.

Posted

I think what Tim was getting at is it isn't really a restoration if you're putting a more modern V8 in it etc.

Posted (edited)

I removed the steering wheel today. I tried removing it with a hammer yesterday. Last night I searched the internet and found this site. someone had a nice thread up and even included pictures. I couldn't view the pics without being a member though so I signed up. The picture was so helpful so I took a few of my own to put up. The entire process took me less than 10 minutes:

2873e42a.jpg

07d11d25.jpg

9e9f2655.jpg

basically a bearing separator on the bottom ($23 at harbor freight) and a harmonic balance puller thingy on top. tighten the center bolt down and smack the bearing separator a few times with a hammer.

Tomorrow the cab and bed come off. then I can start cleaning up the frame and running new fuel and brake lines.

Edited by matthew5olson
Posted

I made a wheel puller outa scrap plywood and ready rod.

Posted

The back piece is a "brg splitter" commonly used for press work. It comes apart so you can install it over a shaft. Front is a common " T puller"

Posted

So today I took the cab and bed off. by myself. someone had but a solid metal bed over top of the original wood one. It looked professional, like a mass produced kit of some kind. The tailgate will need a bunch of work as the hinge part is rusted to pieces. Here's some pics

5da9a2ed.jpg

5c968091.jpg

IMG_3707.jpg

IMG_3708.jpg

df7a181f.jpg

Posted

Is it ok to list my drive train parts in the for sale section. The thread group says pilot house truck parts only. Is posting something from other years a no-no or am I close enough that the parts are useable for someone that has a pilot house truck

Posted

It looks like you have gotten off to a fast start on the restoration of a good truck. Just my opinion, but if you are not going to hot rod it, I feel you would be better off by rebuilding the original engine. It is an investment and will be worth more money down the road with the original V8.

Also, if you haven't already, please add the truck to the Power Giant Registry.

http://www.townwagon.com/powergiantregistry/index.php

Posted

Had the motor been complete I probably would have rebuilt it. With only the block to work with I would have to buy so many parts. The block itself may not be worth fixing up. I don't know how hard they are to find. the heads have been off for over 30 years.

I don't have unlimited funds and the main reason for the truck is for a photography prop for my wife. This can't really be a 3 or 4 year project. I kinda need to have it ready for next year so it can bring in some extra business. Its more of an investment that way for us. I am keeping it all mopar though, except for the calipers apparently. it stinks all the disc brake kits use gm parts.

And I did ad it to the registry

Posted
the main reason for the truck is for a photography prop for my wife.

Stripping the truck down to the frame for a photoshoot seems a bit excessive. Is she going to shoot pictures of the refreshed frame, the replacement engine, the undercarrage?

When I started my project car failure was not an option. I drew my line in the sand based on my funds and skill level. I hope you have done the same and this truck does not end up crushed and on a boat to China.

Posted
Stripping the truck down to the frame for a photoshoot seems a bit excessive. Is she going to shoot pictures of the refreshed frame, the replacement engine, the undercarrage?

When I started my project car failure was not an option. I drew my line in the sand based on my funds and skill level. I hope you have done the same and this truck does not end up crushed and on a boat to China.

I don't believe I gave off any vibe that I was going to quit halfway through and take it to the scrapyard. You act like taking the cab and body panels off added a lot of extra time and money to the project. I said I was open to suggestions for my build but please don't insult me by acting like this is some half finished model car kit a kid gets a Christmas. I finish what I start.

The main reason I took the body off is that I need to make mounts for the new motor and tranny and I want it to be as easy as possible to weld up. I'm new to welding and want to have as much room to work as I can. If you have an original motor that runs and want to trade me for my newer I'll be more than happy to use it. I got the 318 for free and it runs great. I also like the option to go to the local auto store to get parts for it and not have to get them special ordered.

The reason we got the truck was for my wife's photography business but I plan to drive it a good bit. I'm not to big on show cars that only get driven twice a year. I'd rather have something I can drive to the store or to work all the time. I wouldn't mind getting a pair of slicks to take it to the drags every once in a while.

Posted

"My wife was the one who originally wanted the truck. She is a professional photographer and thought it would make a good prop if I could get it painted. Now I'm into restoring it and its definitely my truck and not hers..."

I think Don had a legitimite question. We don't really fight on this forum, but we don't hold the tough questions back either. Tearing down a truck is the interesting, sometimes fun, and most educational part of the process....mostly free. But when bringing it back up...well that part is definately not free. That's when the truck that "might have been"...becomes parts and scraps left for those who worry about things other than classic cars and trucks.

Sounds like you have a dream for your truck....my question is: what's the plan? Cuz 3 or 4 years is kind of a common deal for a build....some even longer. I like that your posting so many pictures.

48D

Posted

The plan is to rust proof the frame. mount the new engine and tranny in. 318 with an A-833 overdrive tranny. I bought a posi 8 3/4 rear end to put in. upgrade to disc brakes. I haven't figured what is best yet, sandblast the body parts while off the truck or put everything back together first. Paint it The bed needs new wood. Interior will be last.

This isn't something I'm just working on every other weekend. I have at least 8 hours evey day I can putz with it so that may seem why I'm expecting this to take less time. I would fully expect this to take a few years if I only had 6 hours every weekend to work on it.

I started researching the stock motor more. The rebuild kits are 1500 though and I'd still be missing a lot of parts, plus the machine work. I have found a couple flatheads on craigslist but they are from earlier years. There seams to be more support for the flatheads than the early poly's. Does that seam about right? The flatheads were around for longer than the few years the early poly's were.

I would love to open up the hood and have a piece of history. I just can't have it cost me a couple grand. Not sure what a decent running flathead costs but it would save me from buying a new tranny too. although I'll have to see about the bellhousing. I'd assume they're different.

Posted

to me it all depends on what you want. If you are stripping it down to the frame, it makes most sense to redo everything. That means all the frame, panels and such get painted and then reassembled. That way all surfaces are protected from future rust. If you just want a rustic looking truck, then just put 'er back together. As soemone once told me, are you wanting a "restoration" or a "repair". I chose restoration.

Posted

I would have loved to keep the truck the way it looks now. its rusty but there's no holes in anything. but my wife gets to pick what gets done with the exterior. I didn't think about it being easier to paint the inside of the panels if they were disasembled. good point.

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use