So my block is full of rust. Any thoughts?

[50farmtruck]

My truck had been sitting untouched for well over 30 years so I guess this should be expected. I pulled the drain out of the side of the block tonight hoping to get rusty water, but what I got was rusty sludge just weeping from the hole. I'm going to try my best to get this thing flushed without tearing apart the engine. Any good ideas on this are more than welcome. I'm so close to trying to fire the engine. This was an obstacle I was hoping not to encounter.

Thanks,

Bryan

Edited May 26, 2011 by 50farmtruck

[moparmonkey]

Best bet would probably be to pull the freeze plugs. That will give you better access and larger exits for the crud. You might even be able to use a pressure washer at that point to blast the gunk out. But you'll probably need to pull the water distribution tube too, which is no easy deal.

My g/f and I had to replace a few of the freeze plugs on the 270 poly in her '55 Coronet. I was amazed at all the crud that came out when we did that. We just pulled the freeze plugs we had to change (because of leaks) and used a garden hose to flush out as much junk as we could.

[TodFitch]

Pull the freeze/core/welch/expansion plugs on the side of the block and start flushing. You can help it along with a stiff wire to probe around inside and break up the bigger chunks. New plugs are available at any decent auto supply.

My method of removing the old plugs is to screw a self-drilling, self-tapping screw into the plug leaving the head proud of the surface then the claw side of a carpenter's hammer can be used to pull on the head of the screw and pop the plug out.

To set the new ones in after you're done flushing out the debris, clean the seat thoroughly put some sealer on the seat and/or the new plug. Seat the plug in place, put a rod or bar on it and then hit the rod/bar with a hammer. You just want to flatten it out, so don't pound it into curving the other way.

All this has been covered in these forums before. If not on the truck side then on the car side. And there are photos in some of those threads showing what you'll likely find.

[50farmtruck]

That is not what I wanted to hear. I've done some reading here on the distribution tube & really wanted to avoid that job. At least for now. Man, all I want is to hear this thing run! Aaargh. Well, I guess tomorrow I'll hunt down some freeze plugs. Thanks again for the help guys.

-Bryan

[JBNeal]

The '49 was parked for at least 20 yrs, and WOW it had sludge halfway up the top row of freeze plugs. I used a coat hanger to scrape the jacket where I couldn't reach with a screwdriver. Flushed it all with a garden hose, and when I got the motor put back together, used only water for coolant for the first 100 miles, then flushed again.

[ggdad1951]

mine sat for 30 years and when we tore into the engine what looked like baby poo came out of it as well. I had the block hot bathed and all that tho since I was doing a complete rebuild...I know EXACATLLY what that gunk looks like. I'd take the time and do it right and not skimp on this detail.

Edited May 26, 2011 by ggdad1951

[Plymouthy Adams]

That is not what I wanted to hear. I've done some reading here on the distribution tube & really wanted to avoid that job. At least for now. Man, all I want is to hear this thing run! Aaargh. Well, I guess tomorrow I'll hunt down some freeze plugs. Thanks again for the help guys.

-Bryan

sometimes what you don't "need/want" to hear is the only answer to your problem...if it has sat for a long time and especially if it sat with low water in the radiator..the upper block where the air is will form crusty rust and scale..heat cycles through the summer will keep the top air laden with moisture and continue/further this effect and the distribution is at the top of the block also...while you are doing the work and have access it is best bang for the buck to go in and do it right...IF you decide to flush with chemical...do ensure that all the scale is removed from your block interally by pulling the core plugs..even at this if you have residual in the fcorner.acid will enter the crude laden area and continue its corrosive effect..that is why I do not recommend any chemical flush...ever..new or old car..at minimum do ensure you get a neutralizer for the product should you go this route..

[Dave72dt]

Replacing the expansion plugs should be an automatic after all those years. You'll likely find the old ones pretty thin at the bottom to the point of failure. it won't take long to dump the coolant if one opens up. Cheap insurance plus better access to coolant passages.

[TodFitch]

... it won't take long to dump the coolant if one opens up. ....

Only a couple of seconds based on my experience. And it makes a mess of your engine compartment.

[50farmtruck]

I know you guys are right; I just wanted to get the engine running without having to spend a couple hundred bucks. I definitely don't want to over look anything though as I plan on driving this truck till I'm dead & then passing it down to my son. I looked around on the interweb today & NAPA has plugs sold individually in 3 sizes. Also found a whole kit from Vintage Power Wagon. VPW also has 2 flavors of distribution tubes; one for $65 I think & one for about $40. Anywhere else I should look for these parts?

Thanks,

Bryan

Edited May 27, 2011 by 50farmtruck

[Merle Coggins]

Don't worry about the distribution tube for now, just focus on the core plugs. They are cheap and easy to get any any parts store, just gotta know the size. Pop one out and take it in as a sample. Flush out the block as good as you can through the core plugs and get it running. If you have an overheating issue after that, and you rule out the radiator and everything else, then go after the distrubution tube. Save yourself some time and money and just focus on the easy things until it runs.

Merle

[50farmtruck]

So is a freeze plug & a core plug the same thing? Or is a core plug one that is in a specific location in the block. Is it best to pull all of them or just certain ones to do the flushing?

Bryan

[fargorat]

[ATTACH]27027[/ATTACH]I am also at this stage of restoration and removed frost plugs with lots of crud. Some help here would be greatly appreciated before I take this next step. This engine is in my 53 Fargo 1/2 ton FP1-08 which I have no history on [truck came from Saskatchewan] but did turn over by hand.Did not try to start it. Completely disassembled it because I want to put it back together myself. Never done an engine before but am somewhat mechanically inclined[whatever that means]. Read many different threads and for the most part feedback is try it yourself but go slow and ask lots of questions.Bagged everything and marked. Issues were: #6 piston top ring[compression ring?] came out in 5 pieces but no scoring on walls. #6 exh. valve stuck. But what is questionable is work was done at some time on #4 cyl. between valve and cyl. wall. Am taking block, head, pistons, cam, crank to machine shop to check. If machining needs to be done to block, crank etc. do I just buy parts from them and assemble myself or just let them put the engine together and if there is problems down the road with the engine they would deal with it. Engine says T307 24910 C but I havent read any threads about this engine #. I assume it is a 218 but there has been different posts about Canadian and American 218's. It is 25" block. I guess after all this is can the problem at #4 piston bite me in the you know what down the road, and in pic. 3 is that a frost plug on the top of the 2 that are still in there? A bit long winded but I hope some replies would steer me in right direction

[Dave72dt]

Looks as if the block was cracked, welded and a new intake seat cut in and installed. May have been an area that was filled to salvage a casting flaw.

[Andydodge]

As far as I know ALL mopar six's used five 1 & 5/8th" freeze/welch plugs........best thing is to remove the generator/starter/dissy, plug the dissy hole and remove each freeze plug, get a nice coat hanger and go digging around, also remove the drain **** on that side also........get a new one if the old one is buggered........insert hose into welch plug holes and turn on HARD..........instant crud soup........yum..........dig around again.....hose again..........dig,hose,dig,hose........I wouldn't worry about the water tube.......maybe also take off the water thermostat housing & check that the thermostat works while your digging for gold..........reistall thermo housing, dig again, hose again..........then get new welch plugs and install.......at this stage I'd get steel welch plugs however brass ones are available and for a long term rebuild are the better choice...........have funn!........lol......andyd

[ggdad1951]

for the visually impaired, I assume this is what your looked like when you took it apart?

[Scruffy49]

Flexible shotgun cleaning rod and a brass or bronze brush. Not a perfect fit by any means but helps break the crud loose. So does pre-filling the cooling passages with kerosene or ATF. Scrub the cooling passages, then pull the freeze plugs. Have seen many an old engine cleaned out this way. Gets a whole lot more crud out when you power rinse it. You have to pull the head anyway so...

[PatS....]

So is a freeze plug & a core plug the same thing? Or is a core plug one that is in a specific location in the block. Is it best to pull all of them or just certain ones to do the flushing?

Bryan

When I popped mine out, they looked OK from the outside but were very badly rusted from the inside. They would have failed very quickly once the engine was running...best to replace them all.

[50farmtruck]

Well, my engine is still in the truck. I'm not to the point of a rebuild yet. I just brought the truck home maybe two months ago & have no room to store an engine any how. Right now I'm just trying to keep things simple & as low cost as possible. I want to get the engine running & then do the brakes so the truck is mobile. I'm not planning any long distance driving, but at least I can drive it on to a trailer if needed. After that I may start collecting the parts I'll need & do the rebuild at the Junior College here. They have a great program & I can do all the work myself. So replacing all of the freeze plugs at the same time doesn't sound like a major ordeal, but is it possible to do with the engine still in place? Will I be able to get the tools in there to refit the new plugs?

Thanks,

Bryan

[Reg Evans]

Will I be able to get the tools in there to refit the new plugs?

Thanks,

Bryan

Yes, piece of cake. a big ball peen hammer works best for me.

[fargorat]

Looks as if the block was cracked, welded and a new intake seat cut in and installed. May have been an area that was filled to salvage a casting flaw.

thanks Dave, might have been done at a dealership or not. has the original headgasket part # on it. just found today this engine is for this truck. took the power washer with hot water to it today and boy the crap that does come out with frost plugs removed is pretty amazing. wonder how they stayed cool. also took out distribution tube and not an ounce of crud in it.