fargorat Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Hey guys, just installing shackles into leaf springs and trying to install threaded bushing into eye of spring and it seems to be overly tight. Springs were just sandblasted and I can see where the left hand thread was on the front left, rear eye. Dont want to force anything. Guys that installed new u shackles did you use impact gun. These u shackles are pricey and dont want to wreck them.Tons of threads on spring u shackles but couldnt find anything on actual installation problems or how they were installed. Any feedback would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 NO impact guns! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I put a little grease on mine and did it SLOWLY with a wrench. I left mine a little loose till I have everything started, since mine wanted to twist a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargorat Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 ggdad1951, thanks for the info. thats exactly what mine are doing, they want to twist. I tried a little pen. fluid just to see if they would start. I will try the grease. They need to be primed and painted and just didnt want any surprises after they were painted. I guess this is where patience and slow going come into play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Remember all that hoopla a couple of weeks ago about how easily door hinge pins were extracted using heat and paraffin? Kind of different but similar. I can't help thinking how much easier wood screws go in with soap sort of the same principal in a way. Maybe some heat and melted wax might do it? Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 I have found that by gently wedging a chisel between the flat side of the spring and the end of the spring was just enough to ease some pressure on the spring eye. I used a copper anti-seize compound and found the shackle was much easier to install. I have used the same method for removing shackles as well and it seems to work fine. I turned them in slowly without an impact gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
52b3b Joe Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 I agree with the anit-seize method, it helps them go in easier but its slow going and they go in hard. You only should have to do it once so take the time to do it by hand and not to risk anything with the impact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargorat Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Thanks for the replies guys, some good advice. I did the grease method and it worked out excellent. Just go slow and it all works out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Left hand thread only in eyes on left front and right rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 (edited) Studied the search on shackles then went out and tried what I had read. My truck is a '52 1/2 T. The bottom bushing is a left hand thread. With a 15" crescent wrench it came out. I hope the pics tell the story. The last pic shows the rusty bushing placed on top of the spring eye. Evidently, the shackle works back and forth on those large threads. Learned one more thing today. Pic #3 should be #1. The pictures are driver's side, the (P) on the discriptions is incorrect. Edited May 25, 2018 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Evidently, the shackle works back and forth on those large threads. Yes, the side play is taken up by the threads and grease is spread up and down the lengths of the bushings by the thread action as the spring moves. Clever design but if they aren't kept lubricated they can wear out pretty fast. With lubrication they last a long, long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 (edited) I just finished removing the rear springs, challenging when on the floor. Observation/question: (0) the springs do not show much wear, have no breaks or cracks: good! The shackle end of the major spring was/should be threaded. Evidently that thread does several things: (1) it adjusts the in/out location, (2) it holds the shackle in, (3) it 'rotates' thus greasing itself. Question: If the threads in the spring "eye" are poor or gone, does one have to replace the entire leaf????? Is that tread in the steel part of the leaf or is that a "bushing" ? More research! Observation/methodology: (1) The head of the one bushing was somewhat in the eye of the spring. The only way I could get hold of it was with an 18" pipe wrench. Hmmmm, since the inner threads were/are gone, that would allow that bushing to pull into the eye!!! (2) the driver side bushing was left thread, the passenger side bushing was right thread. That make it easier and faster to remove since the pull was toward the back of the frame for both!! (3) tough work for an aging man, but rewarding. Second thoughts: The spring should not be under pressure when removing the shackle bushings and the spring is under tension when it reaches the work bench, so I recommend to put a good clamp on the spring before you take that center bolt off. The eye of the spring is NOT threaded, but the outside of the bushing is, as a lubricant aid. Good to know, so now I can really clean out the eye so it is nice and smooth. Very interesting engineering on these trucks. Edited November 14, 2017 by pflaming More research revealed. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 I got my springs out, tough to do from the floor but it's done. I have kept them as together as they came out. I notice that when I stack them that they are NOT alike. There is more 'spring' in some than in others. I will make certain the 'eye' leaves return to their original places and the perch leaf(s). Question: (1) must they stay together? (2) can they be 'stacked' / mixed n matched so they are all 'alike'? Any other tips will be appreciated. Big task, not so technical; just physical especially without a hoist. Those bushings come out hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Maxwell Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 I am restoring a '51 B3C and plan to begin removing the springs this weekend. The frame is on jack stands and the front axle is out and the rear axle will be out soon. I am confused as to where the left hand bushing threads are. Post #1 indicates that one left thread is on the left front rear eye. Post #8 states that the left threads are only in the left front and right rear eyes. Post #9 states that there is a left thread on the bottom bushing on the left rear shackle. I THINK what I take from this is: -left threads are only on lower SHACKLE bushings. -one is on the left front spring eye bushing and another is on the right rear spring eye bushing. -No left threads on the front of any spring pack (right or left). If I am correct on this, then I don't understand Post #9. I would like to get all this straight in my head before I start turning bushings in the wrong direction this weekend. I hope someone will help me on this before I screw something up. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Look at the wrench in post # 9. On the drivers side it is a right hand thread, on the passenger side it is a left hand thread. Set up this way, a mechanic can work both bushings from the back. To get the passenger bushing out I needed a pipe wrench, it pulled HARD all the way. DO NOT USE A PIPE WRECH! It will elongate the head. To get mine "square again, I put in in the vise and went around until a socket would fit. The next set I take off I will get the BEST socket available, 8 pt. Gravel had rounded the edges on mine. The spring eyes do NOT have threads, What you think are threads are grooves of rust which is Y they come out hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Thornton Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 I am trying to remove left front shackle bottom out ok, it was left hand thread can not get top one out is to right or left thread do not have heat source jus impact. thanks for your help Robert thornton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Look at the wrench in post # 9. On the drivers side it is a right hand thread, on the passenger side it is a left hand thread. Set up this way, a mechanic can work both bushings from the back. To get the passenger bushing out I needed a pipe wrench, it pulled HARD all the way. DO NOT USE A PIPE WRECH! It will elongate the head. To get mine "square again, I put in in the vise and went around until a socket would fit. The next set I take off I will get the BEST socket available, 8 pt. Gravel had rounded the edges on mine. The spring eyes do NOT have threads, What you think are threads are grooves of rust which is Y they come out hard. Made this mistake too, I used impact to remove mine, but putting in new I used a good 1/2" socket and ratchet and a little brute force. Clean everything really well and if you can't start one side then try removing the other and starting the hard left hand threads first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 I just installed my new shackles into new leaf springs a couple of days ago and found that using "Tap Magic Pro Cutting Fluid" helped A LOT. I just used a large adjustable wrench, went slowly and added Tap Magic liberally. When i installed the rear shackles i used PB blaster as a lubricant and it worked decently but not was well as the Tap Magic. -Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Look at the wrench in post # 9. On the drivers side it is a right hand thread, on the passenger side it is a left hand thread. Set up this way, a mechanic can work both bushings from the back. To get the passenger bushing out I needed a pipe wrench, it pulled HARD all the way. DO NOT USE A PIPE WRECH! It will elongate the head. To get mine "square again, I put in in the vise and went around until a socket would fit. The next set I take off I will get the BEST socket available, 8 pt. Gravel had rounded the edges on mine. The spring eyes do NOT have threads, What you think are threads are grooves of rust which is Y they come out hard. odd, all my new springs had threads in the bushings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 I just installed my new shackles into new leaf springs a couple of days ago and found that using "Tap Magic Pro Cutting Fluid" helped A LOT. I just used a large adjustable wrench, went slowly and added Tap Magic liberally. When i installed the rear shackles i used PB blaster as a lubricant and it worked decently but not was well as the Tap Magic. -Chris I agree with the use of Tap Magic. Always have a can in my shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 were the YouTube videos on this stuff helpful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Thornton Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 thanks for your help I took my floor jack and long pull handle used weight of truck to brake loos still was hard all the way. I appreciate all your help. where do you find tap cutting oil. thanks again R.T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 https://www.google.com/#q=tap+magic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 "Robert Thornton" I just checked my shackle on the drivers side front suspension and the portion that threads into the frame is right hand thread. As you know the other part that threads into the leaf spring is left hand thread. Hope that helps. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 I bought my can of Tap Magic from Mcmaster-Carr. Google it, it's basically a giant online hardware store I use it all the time. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bach4660 Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 were the YouTube videos on this stuff helpful? the youtube video is great, (not that I don;t mind reading) thanks for the link 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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