Jump to content

Robert Thornton

Members
  • Posts

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Robert Thornton

  1. Need to know how to repair temp gage. Shorted wire burnt my copulatory tube. Thanks for your help
  2. Need to know how to repair temp gage. Shorted wire burnt my copulatory tube. Thanks for your help
  3. Does anyone know where to get a carb float height gage for one barrel
  4. Thanks to all I will try these suggestions. I am going to reduce psi of fuel. The carb is seeping fuel at top, no matter how tight the screws are and a good gasket. Thanks again Robert T
  5. Has anyone had trouble with carb draining down after week or so. I have elect fuel pump that is showing 5 lbs of psi when not running. I feel like that is to much It should be 3 psi. Opened carb found float on top and dry pot pushed float down carb filled. I think hi psi is sticking float up truck backfires when letting off of gas so must be flooding. I just don't know why gas is draining out or evaporating. Thanks for you're help RT PS i am getting a psi regulator so I can adj psi
  6. I have read every thing I could find on steering box repair there seems to be no parts except hi priced ball baring and cups. what is my options oldest re manufactured box is 1960 truck. I just don't wont to spend 700-900 to get it rebuilt plus shipping with steering shaft . I just would like to know what to do before I take mine apart. 1952 b3b Thanks rt
  7. the psi switch is a single pole double throw diaphragm actuated switch. Terminals p for pump and s for start are normally closed. Terminals p for pump and I for ignition are normally open. This allows the pump to operate and fill the carburetor while the engine is cranking. When oil pressure exists 2-4 1/2 psi p and s terminals are open and p and I are closed. the safety interlock circuit stops the fuel pump when the engine stops even though the ignition switch is not turned off. this is the instructions that came with the Carter A-68301 safety switch. Thanks Robert T
  8. To good minds thank alike. I just ordered one yesterday. I had been thinking about it and thought it a good idea to have. new was pricey found a good used one with wiring $18.00. I also found my oil safety switch was bad. it would run every time switch was on . might just do both would not heart to be over cautious if one might fail. i will add a push button to prime if necessary. I already have ordered a new oil psi safety switch. pluming is there might, as well use it. inertia switch was a good call I wish I had thought of it earlier. Thanks so much for your help and time ROBERT T
  9. A push button would act like solenoid. That might be my best bet the third wire to solenoid was just to prime pump. I could do the same with a push button . With a car type starter you would put 1 wire to pump 1 to switch 1 to solenoid and add a push button to start your car or truck. unless you have a starter switch with a start terminal. thanks for your time helping me with this. Robert T
  10. thanks this gives me some imfo to think about I am running a12 volt single wire alternator with internal regulator will see what output is I can not connect to starter button It is hot all the time. if I could take it apart and put a wire to open side of starter button then when you push starter it would be hot. I do like the alternator idea it could work. I knew I could get help here you always come through. I will let you know what works thanks to you all Robert T
  11. MR GASKET 7872 fuel pump safety switch I can find plenty of instruction on wiring with solenoid but nothing if you have mechanical starter which has no solenoid. I appreciate your help thanks Robert t
  12. I forgot to add I have third wire hooked to starter right now which is hot all the time this causes a feed back , but it will turn off with switch. the safety switch looks just like a oil sending unit with 3 wire plugs
  13. the pump is in line close to fuel tank. model after market GZYF 12S universal micro 12 volt 2 wire self priming. The pump is low psi 4-7 lb for carburetor . the problem is I have safety oil psi switch that has 3 wire connectors one is for pump feed, one is for ignition key start the third is to a solenoid. I do not have solenoid, trucks have foot starter that is mechanical. the wire to solenoid is used to prime pump when starting. PUMP WILL NOT RUN IF THERE IS LESS THAN 15PSI OF OIL psi THIS KEEPS PUMP FROM RUNNING IF MOTER IS OFF IN AN ACCIDENT. I CANT DECIDE TO JUST LEVE 3 RD OFF WHICH CAUSES LONGER CRANK TIME or try to put a dummy solenoid wired to key switch or just let pump come on with switch and wate a few seconds to start. it starts very quick now when pump is on. I hope this a better explanation I appreciate your help and knowledge ROBERT T
  14. the safety switch has 3 wire plugs, one to switch, one to pump, other to solenoid. on my 52 dodge b3b i have a stomp starter no solenoid so where do you run the wire to run pump when starting. I Thought i might try to wire it to negative side of push button on top of starter. or just not use that solenoid wire pump will come on when oil psi goes up when starting. just wont start as quick.
  15. I ran a 4lbs cap on my b3b 52 for a long time thought I had rotten radiator with small leaks had fixed it happened again ruined radiator. could only find 49 good radiator after installing notice inlet cap was a lot larger than old one. could not fined one for fair price. thin I remembered my old Int farmall H tractor had a large none psi cap. it was a good fit and very good price. you old farmers remember some old tractors did not even use water pumps moved water with conviction . robert
  16. When I did jeep swap my b3b 52 had same u-joint as jeep just had to replace u -bolts on drive shaft to same as jeep 52 must have newer stile u-joint. Robert T
  17. I do not know if this helps but when building my 52 b3b, needed to replace driver side axel. one of my parts truck was a 53 b4b it had fine thread axel my 52 was course thread . So I tried one out of 49 it would fit. makes me think a 53 fine would have fit your car chunk I was told to get the same year 52 car chunk and it would fit. I decided to go with jeep axel for better stopping. hop this might help Robert
  18. Got my motor mounts from Roberts he is on this forum . I have friend here in north Alabama has a 1949 truck motor with trans clutch and pedals all out in one piece .if you would like. ill get his price, parts are in Florence ala. 35630 not far from ky. you could be running much sooner.
  19. Thanks Don you're right I cant loosen backside bolt with out removing dizzy. I have never pulled one how do you mark it to get back in place. do you put #1 in t d c and line up timing mark . with rotor pointing at #1 at 7 o'clock . then mark it some where. Thanks Robert
  20. Having trouble with timing , Replaced plugs cap rotor points set at 20 deg. timing mark lines up on #1 at 7 o'clock got it to run pretty good. the dizzy is fully retarded and timing mark is 6 to 8 in off to the right. Truck runs really good at all speeds. cranks good do I just leave it as is or try to find how to line it up. I have never had the dizzy out. Had truck 15 years with no trouble. Thanks for your help. I have read every timing thread on forum. just cant find this problem, robert
  21. just got a 6 volt positive ground alternator one wire hookup . do I run wire to top of starter or positive side of battery . and how to run amp meter. if anyone has picks or drawings would be nice. thanks rt
  22. I have jeep axel in 52 b3b it is about 1 1/2 in closer to frame on each side running original 16 in rims with no problem, thought about wheel spacers but if I don't tell about difference in tracking no one notices difference.
  23. [attachment=43807:IMG.just finished disc brake from charley. jeep 98 Cherokee rear end. have Cherokee 98 duel master but brakes are so good
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use