some progress...

[HanksB3B]

Joe,

 

It's pretty typical to have these types of problems with a new build. What you are really experiencing is what I call "commissioning your truck". They say 90% of fuel problems are electrical and I'd go far as to say with our trucks 90% of electrical problems are fuel related. Who knows if your float isn't set too high or if the idle orrifice tube in your carb isn't contaminated with teflon micro bits as mine was. It could be a short or it could be a faulty voltage regulator who knows. I will say this though, once you have it dialed in the truck will start being as dependable as if you are the first owner and it just rolled off the showroom floor.

 

It just takes time and patience, 

 

Hank 

Edited July 31, 2014 by HanksB3B

[52b3b Joe]

Tonight was good, actually I'll take it another step and say great! I think I have all the mechanical issues worked out on the truck finally. The root of the problem ended up being the battery. It wasn't working at 100% in combination with the cable at the starter. I installed the new battery and cleaned up both ends of each battery cable and the starter kicks the engine over like nothing now. The charging system is now working as it should be. Once it has the battery charged, it backs right down to maintain the battery while driving. The the best part of it now, is the truck idles smoother than ever and runs/drives great. All the hesitations I had before are gone and the random miss at idle has gone away too. It's time to really start driving it! Saturday I'm planning on getting a new exhaust put on it. I think I'm going to run a single 2" pipe and re-use the muffler on it if they can. If they can't re-use it, I don't know what I will put on it. Maybe a something with a little sound (flowmaster) or a glasspack. I don't want something annoying inside the truck. Does anyone have any experience? I want it to sound good, and not obnoxious! Now I just wish I had more time to work on it and get it done!

Edited August 1, 2014 by 52b3b Joe

[Dave72dt]

Should have tried the old  battery with the cleaned up cables.  Clean cables and good connections have solved a lot of electrical problems.  Old battery may still be good.

[52b3b Joe]

I'm sure the cables played a part in it, but the battery was starting to leak and corrode out the top. I am still going to use it for our 48 Desoto to get it running. No money or time was wasted this time....

[52b3b Joe]

Well this morning was interesting to say the least...

 

I took off this morning around 8:00 am to go get a new exhaust put on the truck in Toledo. It was about 20 miles one way and the only good way to go is the expressways. I made it about 1 mile from my exit and hell broke out. The first warning sign was I noticed I could hear the air going into the carb louder than normal. Within seconds before I could think about the noise, smoke started pouring out of the truck. It was so thick I couldn't see the cars behind me. I pulled off I-75 at the closest safe place too and ran out to open the hood. I opened the hood and all you could see were flames. The air cleaner developed a leak somehow, dripping right on the exhause manifold. I think the exhaust leak (the reason I was going for a new one) ignited the oil, and the rest is history. I left a trail of oil on fire down the road even. Luckily I was able to get the fire out very quickly. I don't know how but there is NO damage to the paint. Two spark plug wires and a couple other simple to replace things melted a little too. I got very lucky. It was very scary seeing it on fire with 3 foot flames. The fire department showed up and I cleaned off the rest of the oil on the engine. I fired the truck back up and the fireman followed me to the exhaust shop. I thought that was very nice of them. 

 

The good news: Well first off, I still have a truck. The new exhaust is nice and quite. I reused the muffler that was on it, and instead of the 1.5" pipe after the muffler, I had them put a 2" pipe all the way back. The 2" made a big difference in performance and the engine is actually running even cooler than it used to. 

 

In all, a very crazy day. It must be one of those days! Even the entire metro-Toledo area has no tap water due to algae in the lake creating dangerous tap water. I'm lucky to have well water otherwise I'd be in trouble. 

 

Now I just need to clean up the fire extinguisher residue on the truck and engine...

 

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER IN YOUR CAR/TRUCK!!! YOU NEVER KNOW!!!

Edited August 2, 2014 by 52b3b Joe

[Jeff Balazs]

Boy did you get lucky. Glad things turned out OK.

 

Another good reason to fit a filter element inside the oil bath housing.

 

Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

I'm already planning that out Jeff. We've never had any problems before but after this, why risk anything. I just got in from cleaning the engine compartment up and it looks like I need some new valve cover gaskets after the flames melted them. I also need new spark plug wires. Other than that and some burn marks on the intake, I think all is good.

[48Dodger]

That's a hellva story Joe. Good thing you didn't panic....that always makes things worse.

 

Glad you're Ok.

 

48D

[ggdad1951]

Wow and glad things worked out. FEF has a perm fire extinguisher in him for reasons just like this.

[Geekay]

I picked up the engine today and dropped it in. It looks good! I can't wait to run it, I need to get a water pump, fuel pump, finish the distributer, fix/buy the heat riser spring, finish the oil fill tube and the breather cap, paint the trans, and I sent the clutch and fly wheel out to have rebuilt/resurfaced, and I'm thinking of having the generator rebuilt. I also made a temporary exhaust pipe to run it while I'm working on it. The engine is a 230ci chysler industrial.

Love those pics of restored motor......so that's what mine is supposed to look like.

Is it going yet?

[Geekay]

Oops, sorry hadn't read to end of post and see it is running (aside from the fire).

Great recovery.

[pflaming]

WELCOME TO THE CLUB! But "The Phoenix" is taken! I will never forget when the flames burst out on my shop. Wishing you well.

[RodFru2u]

Wow, Glad you saved the truck and yourself from MAJOR problems and headaches. Glad you and your truck are safe.

[52b3b Joe]

Thanks guys, I think we are going to convert all of our cars to paper elements to avoid losing them to something as simple as what I experienced. I'll be ordering some paper elements in the very near future. 

[HanksB3B]

Joe,

 

Are you Irish ? I can't come up with any other explanation...no paint damage...unbelievable. I have had an oil spill from the oil bath air filter but luckily no fire. I came to the conclusion that filling to filter to the fill line is overfilling the filter and using 5W-30 is too light. You do not have to fill to the fill line but rather just enough to create a oil surface for air contaminates to fly into. I was told the oil should be non-detergent so that the particulate matter falls to the bottom and does not dissolve. Someone gifted a bottle of straight 30 weight non-detergent oil to me but right now I'm running a pool of gear oil just deep enough to offer the same surface area as if it were full.

 

My guess, your oil was the same as what you used in your engine and that you filled to the recommended fill line. I like the idea of modifying the oil bath filter to receive a filter element and would like to get another one for modification but don't feel like chopping into my original. Someone on the Forum once did a very stealth retrofit (could've been Jeff)

 

 

Don't do that again ( I like that Blue truck too much),

 

Hank 

Edited August 4, 2014 by HanksB3B

[Merle Coggins]

I gutted and converted my air filter when I was building my truck/engine. It had been left out in the elements and the internal baffle and mesh was badly rusted. I made a plate to fit in the bottom to make it flat and caulked it in place. Then I did some measuring and found a filter element that would fit the space. The only problem was that the lit is a bit dome shaped so it didn't really seal off the top like it should, and would crush the outside edge of the filter. After a few years like that I redid it. I found a K&N filter element that fit better and make another plate to go on top of the filter element. Then the lid fits over that. It looks stock but isn't.

 

There are several variations on these air filters. The one pictured in Hanks post looks similar to mine but mine is deeper/taller, so you can't really go by what filter element someone else used unless you know the filter body is the same. It's not a difficult conversion. Good luck.

 

Merle

[Desotodav]

My guess, your oil was the same as what you used in your engine and that you filled to the recommended fill line. I like the idea of modifying the oil bath filter to receive a filter element and would like to get another one for modification but don't feel like chopping into my original. Someone on the Forum once did a very stealth retrofit (could've been Jeff)

 

 

It was actually me who did that air filter conversion and posted those pictures Hank, and it was Jeff who really liked it! I'll convert another one soon as I will use the same on my 53 truck.

 

Joe, well done on the quick thinking with your 'situation'. You've come too far to see it that lovely blue truck go up in flames. I hope that it all works out an easy fix.

[Jeff Balazs]

Yep.....Kudos go to Davin. I just copied him but found a K & N for a Toyota Supra that fit. Works very well and just one less thing to think about.

 

Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

Jeff, do you have the filter number that you used? I gutted my oil bath last night, so now I just need a filter to go in it. 

[Jeff Balazs]

Joe;

Not off the top of my head.....but you should really check the dimensions of your filter housing against a size chart. There is more than one size of oil bath housing.

Jeff

[52b3b Joe]

I completed my air cleaner conversion today on my lunch, and I got back on the saddle with the truck. I took it to a very nice local cruise-in about 20 miles from my house. The truck ran and drove very nice with no problems. To top it off, when I pulled in I had the perfect neighbor to park next to, a 53 B4B. It was a fun night and its always great to park with another Pilothouse! I have known the owner of the 53 for a couple years and he is a great down to earth guy. He also also has a 53 Plymouth that he drives regularly too. His B4 has the original running gear in it and is a very nice driver. Here are some pictures...

[Don Coatney]

Cool! I did not know you were going to install a refrigerated box

[52b3b Joe]

Cool! I did not know you were going to install a refrigerated box

 

It was optional for 52, but it came standard for hungry people just off work! I thought everyone know that!!! 

It was a vital part of my evening, it held my PB&J, chips, and some of my home grown tomatoes. Along with a pop to drink. 

Edited August 8, 2014 by 52b3b Joe

[52b3b Joe]

Ok guys, I need a little help. I know Its been a while since I've posted, and I really haven't worked on the truck much. I've been very busy with work and I bought my first house and that has been more or less all my free time. With moving in and all my house projects, I'm having a heck of a time finding some of my parts/hardware. 

 

My bed has been at a body shop for over a year now, and I finally got a phone call today telling me they are finally working on it which is great news! As timing would have it though, I can't seem to find my bag of bed bolts. The shop wants the hardware to assemble the bed to paint it as a whole once they cut the panels in and to paint the bolt heads and so on. What I need is the size and length of the 8? front panel to side bolts (which I think were 5/16-24 x 1"), and the bolts that bolt the side panels in the stake pockets. I think there are 6 of them, and I think they were fine threaded 3/8 bolts. I can't remember to save my life, if the lower rear panel that fits into the stake pocket has threaded holes or if bolts just go strait through. Also how long do those bolts need to be and are they all the same? Two of the bolts on each side also hold the brackets for the tail lights if I am remembering correctly. If I remember correctly, those are the only bolts that hold the sheet metal together, or am I missing something? I also have the threaded rod for the front panel too. If anyone has any help that would be great. I really wish I would have documented via pictures better on the bed, but it didn't help that the bed was already off the truck when I bought it. 

[Dave72dt]

I can't answer all  of the questions.   The 4 rear bolts in each stake pockets are 3/8 fine and have square lock washers. 2 bottom bolts on each side hold the tailgate brackets.  My tail lights were held on to the front side of the rear stake pocket with  some big sheet metal screws, might have been that acme thread on them.  Rear connecting panel used 3/8 bolts and  used nuts.  The long threaded rod uses 5/16 fine thread.  the front 8 bolts may have been an inch originally. but 3/4 or even 5/8 bolts will work.   I can't tell you diameter.  They may have been 1/4 inch from the factory. I used 5/16 by 3/4, heads on the inside.  They may have been installed the other way from the factory.  Someone else will have to tell you the factory size and install direction for those.

Edited January 30, 2015 by Dave72dt