1949 B-1-D-126 BUILD THREAD 1-ton

[JBNeal]

I took a few more pics on the 2nd day of water hauling...the day's chores were abruptly cut short by an afternoon of thunderstorms & showers that have been rolling thru the past 4 days.  I've put 200 gallons of H2O in the back of the '48 1/2 ton as seen here, and that would squat the rear down to the axle bumpers, and raise the front axle enough to make the steering light.  The '49 1 ton squats down but not all the way to the axle bumpers, and the front axle actually lowers some, but with no effect on steering effort.  When I get around to getting the '51 dually rolling, I'd be interested to see how that sprung axle reacts to a similar load...
 

 
To clarify:  the filled 275 gallon tote tank weighs closer to 2300#, and the 1 ton handled it adequately; on occasion, I would fill four 50 gallon plastic barrels that probably tipped the scales upwards of 1700#, and the 1/2 ton would squat down and struggle as the gearing was not as low as the 1 ton.  To ease the load, I reduced to three barrels, and the B1B could handle it, even with the frame groaning from the strain

Edited July 25, 2013 by JBNeal

[1952B3b23]

Very cool JB nice to see the old Dodge is still doing some work. 150 gallons of water is about 1200 lbs, glad to see the One ton can handle it well.

 

-Chris

[Young Ed]

My 1/2 ton can handle 1200 lbs. Thats barely a start for his truck.

[JBNeal]

I've put about 10 miles on the odometer since I got this thing rolling again, making 1/2 mile trips hauling water, and got it up to 15 mph rolling downhill without foot brakes  ...using the hand throttle is useful when operating in bull gear, as this thing tractors its 2300# load uphill nicely now.  It's not spinning tires just yet, but it doesn't hesitate to take off now (loaded or unloaded) like it was doing the first few trips I made.  Without the floorboards in place, and with air temps well over 100, the heat coming off of the engine turns that cab into an oven quickly.  If I can knock out a few other projects this week, maybe I can have the foot throttle & brakes working with the cleaned up floor boards installed

[Dodgeb4ya]

The original fuel lines are clamped to the frame in strategic places, but I've wondered why the lines were mounted outside the frame rail, where they would be prone to flying debris damage, while the fuel tank was mounted inside the frame rails. My only guess is that if the fuel lines are inside the frame rail, debris (e.g. road salt) can accumulate between the lines and the frame rails and not easily be cleaned off, leading to fuel line corrosion and failure. But on both the trucks I've worked on, the fuel line was beat up & pinched near the front left wheel (attached is the area with the fuel line removed). So one of the things I'll be working on is installing the fuel lines inside the frame rails with some sort of stand-offs to reduce any debris accumulation. The tricky area will be at the bell housing motor mounts as brake lines are going through there also. I think it's possible to make this work...it's on the to-do list

 

Hope this pitman arm nut got tightened up. Just noticed it!

 

Edited August 17, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[JBNeal]

another 10 miles on the odometer from hauling water, and the NORS water pump that I cleaned up and installed back in '04 has started to seep out of the shaft seal.  It hasn't completely blown out, but it's just a matter of time until that relic will need to be replaced with that NAPA pump that's been sitting on the shelf.  There's also a freeze plug that has started to seep, but not as bad as the water pump issue.  I took the truck 1/2 mile up the road to pick up my neighbors' paper while they are out of town, and the flat spots in them old tires were noticeable at 15mph, and started to shake the wax out of my ears when I hit 20mph.  So the 1-ton will need quite a bit of work to get it road worthy:  cooling system, tires, hydraulic brakes, wiring...but for now, it is doing a decent job in helping to keep my trees growing, my transplanted yard green, and the house foundation afloat

[JBNeal]

for the 1st time since '08, I've got pedal brakes on the 1-ton...I tried something different to get the brakes bled, and was able to use the truck to start hauling water again

[Frank Elder]

I just love that you use them as intended....

[JBNeal]

I figgered I could make 2 water runs after work, so off I went, filled up with water, and made it 300 yards from the well when the engine just quit.  I didn't think I was out of gas already, but walked back up the hill to snag a gas can and the carb refiller...still wouldn't start, and both fuel bowls were still full...then it dawned on me what had happened AGAIN, so I headed back up the hill to grab the handful of tools needed to pull the fuel pump.  After I got it apart, I thought I'd try staking the housing to keep that check valve in place.

 

 

Put everything back in place, and the ol' beast fired right up, sputtered for about a minute, then ran as smooth as an old sewing machine...BACK TO WORK

Edited August 22, 2021 by JBNeal
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[ggdad1951]

odd mine has a screwed in bracket to hold them in place.

[Jeff Balazs]

Wow another story about these fuel pumps. After reading more than a hundred postings about them I decided to ditch mine in favor of a 6V Carter vane type pump mounted back at the tank. I like it and there is no chance I would go back to the mechanical pump. Just too many stories of how they can fail.

 

Jeff

[JBNeal]

I've hauled about 6000 gallons this week, and the fresh gas and uphill loading has recently led me to shifting into second gear...I reckon them spark plugs are getting cleaned off nicely, and the 230 is generating closer to full power.  The weight on them tires has flexed the tread enough to get most of the flat spots out, but I can still feel one of them thumping when there's no load on that back axle.  Meanwhile, the Saturn L200 overhaul is nearing re-start, probably this weekend, so when I get that charity project out of the way, maybe I can get around to putting them floorboards back in the cab.  They've been collecting dust in the corner of the garage going on 2 yrs now, along with the cut rubber strips for anti-squeak and the extruded U-nuts for the cab modification.  I'll have to get as much as that as I can before I have to replace the head gaskets on that Subaru that puked on me in May...in the meantime, I can still haul water and fiddle with the truck in between irrigations

[JBNeal]

Another 4000 gallons hauled, and shifting into third gear for brief periods as the engine is seemingly generating more power.  Just a few more things to do on that Saturn before it's road ready, and then I can get them floorboards put back in the truck, as the dust from the pasture where the water well is located about chokes me cuz I'm going just fast enough to kick up a cloud but too slow for it to blow away.  At least the dog I'm lookin' after enjoys the shade underneath and the perch when I'm workin' on this & that

[JBNeal]

My helper finally showed a few weeks ago and she helped me bleed these brakes, getting a nice firm pedal.  But a few days later, it took a few pumps to get pressure built up, so I must have a leak somewhere.  After spending most of the summer hauling water through the pasture with the floor boards sitting in the garage, on occasion the light would hit just right and I would see a bubble coming out of the left front bleeder screw when pumping up the brakes while barreling down the hill.  An equipment inspection was in order, and I found 2 blown front shocks.  This is not that big of a deal right now as I rarely break the 15mph threshold.  But the back of the brake supports had dust accumulations around the wheel cylinders, with the left front brake support apparently soaked with a thin film of DOT 5.  Nothing has been dripping out as there is no staining on the tire sidewalls.  I vaguely recall the bleeder screws being slightly pitted when I had the bores sleeved back in '04, but I didn't think anything of it until now.  In comparison, the wheel cylinders I had sleeved in '99 for the '48 are not nearly as dusty, and those brakes are just as firm as they were 15 years ago.  So it looks like the wheel cylinders will have to be looked at a little closer someday, just another thing to put on the list

 

 

Edited August 22, 2021 by JBNeal
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[JBNeal]

I fired the beast up the other day to move it to another location, and when I hopped in the seat, there was no give to the cushion, kinda like sitting on an old church pew...that wasn't right at all, but I had other things I needed to get done that afternoon so I waited a few days to pull the seat cushion out.  It was very heavy, and when I tilted it forward, I could hear the cascade of red oak acorns that had been packed in there by the local squirrel squatters who must've thought the stench of moth balls under the seat was quite refreshing

 

 

Edited August 22, 2021 by JBNeal
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[Dodgeb4ya]

I guess you dont need to adjust the Air Seat lever any more!

No way to remove all the extra packing's unless you remove the seat cover either.

Edited March 6, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya

[JBNeal]

I have opted to do some work on the place, which required me to move the '49 & '51 1-tons off to the side so that I could expand my driveway, giving me more room to work.  I aired up the tires on the '51 & dragged it out of the way, slowly & carefully, having to stop every few feet to adjust the steering wheel to aim it into its temporary parking space next to the parts trucks.  Alignment was crucial so that I could sleep at night...haha 

 

I had tried to fire up the '49 a few weeks ago, with a fresh charged battery & topping off the carb float chamber.  All I could manage was a quick sputtering attempt to fire at first, but then subsequent attempts to fire up the engine were for naught.  I kinda figured the spark plugs were fuel fouled, but had other things to do so I put that off for a few days…I think that was before Memorial Day, so where did the time go once again…

 

Recalling this again yesterday, I pulled plugs #1 & #2, and they were quite fuel fouled.  I took a little brass brush to them to spiff’m up, then put #1 back in its place.  I reattached the plug wire to #2, cleaned off a head bolt, then wedged the plug+wire against that head bolt & the water neck.  Turned the key back on, went back under the hood, and went to crank down on the starter lever to check the spark when I noticed the ground wire between the coil & the distributor.  I had not touched the original wiring on this truck except for scabbing on new terminals at the dimmer & brake switches years ago.  Most of it is in decent condition, but there are several areas in the engine compartment where the terminals are in rough shape.  But this ground wire looked different, as it had electrical tape from one terminal to the other, and that tape had come unwound at the distributor.  I pulled it out & examined it to see that ALL of that wire’s insulation was gone, with the copper strands covered with old tape, allowing the copper to oxidize.  I opted to replace that short piece with new vinyl insulated white 16 AWG wire to improve the coil ground.  (Looking at my notes after sundown, I suppose I should have used a red 14 AWG wire.)

 

Checking the spark showed a bright white bracketed by faint yellow, I attributed this lower color to my poorly grounded setup.  So I put the plug back in #2 & reattached the plug wire, shot some starting fluid down the carb, then cranked on the starter.  The engine fired up almost immediately, sputtering that quickly cleared up to a high idle that I bumped down to the low idle that didn’t quite sound right.  I then remembered to put the #1 plug wire back on, then the idle smoothed back out. 

 

With the seat bottom sitting near the garage waiting to be cleaned out, I grabbed a 5-gallon bucket to stick in the cab, then piloted the beast to its spot next to the ’51.  It has dried up considerably since all of the flooding rains we had this spring, so it’s time to start running water to trees & whatnot.  I was asked if I was going to use the beast to run water again, and I had to point out that the engine runs well enough, but the tires are the issue now as I do not want to load them up.  I had tried to get all of the tubes replaced 5 yrs ago when I needed to replace 2 of the tires, but there was a communication breakdown with the tire place and they re-used the old tubes and didn’t touch the other 2 tires as the guy said “they looked fine”.  I didn’t have time to argue with the guy, so I loaded up the four tires and haven’t been back…I lost one of the tires awhile back as the valve stem separated from the tube, and I fear the others will do the same, so I won’t chance it.  For now, the truck is under its own power again, so I can move it around to do this & that without the use of a length of chain

[JBNeal]

I tackled the seat a few weeks ago, and it was a mess.  The asphalt cardboard that makes up the seat bottom was chewed up as shown, so it was gonna need to be replaced.  I scooped out the whutnot, filling a 5 gallon bucket with chewed up stuffing and a large coffee can full of acorns.  I am guessing they put the cardboard on before crimping the seat tracks, dunno if I'll put it back anytime soon.  Anyhow, I have a temporary bucket seat in the beast for now 

 

[JBNeal]

While hauling water back in August 2014, I witnessed a scene several times, so I was able to shoot a video with my old BlackBerry Torch (which was retired just a few days later, ironically enough)...finally figured out how to post it on the internets for global amusement

 

Dogs Not Playing Poker

 

 

Edited August 22, 2021 by JBNeal
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[JBNeal]

I found the safe place where I put the door lock several years ago, and commenced to oiling that cylinder with the Marvel Mystery Oil to loosen up the tumblers, as key engagement was difficult and the lock wasn't turning.  After several weeks of oiling, jiggling, wiggling, wiping, waiting a few days and repeating, the key cylinder finally turned, and about a week after that, the cylinder began to operate almost as smooth as the one on the '48...so I went to get a new key made after all these years of forgetting to get around to it.  The next key problem is with the ignition, as the key locks into the cylinder when it is in the accessory position, but it slides right out when in the run position...some oiling and jiggling with the new key, and it feels like the cylinder wants to lock the key in, but it is not consistent enough yet...I'd had for the key to fall out while this beast bounces down the road

[JBNeal]

We had a rare spring shower roll through during the afternoon that didn't boil into a thunderstorm, so I took the opportunity to scrub the '49 with a Scotch Brite pad to knock off decades of oxidized filth and find some paint in the rain

 

 

 

Edited August 22, 2021 by JBNeal
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[JBNeal]

I found some seal boxes that I labeled years ago:

4 spd (spur gear) output shaft seal: 

• National 450308
• Chicago Rawhide 21210

1-ton pinion seal: 

• Chicago Rawhide 18924
• National 6017

[JBNeal]

I did a little work on the truck the other day, then got busy for 4 months and remembered to upload my results.  The problem I have had is the special carriage bolts in the cab for the floorboards rounded out the square hole, making floorboard removal and installation rather tedious.

 

 

I opted to replace the special carriage bolts and hex nuts with zinc plated bolts (5/16-18NC X 1) and flat washers and zinc phosphate coated long extruded U-nuts sourced from a local hardware store.

 

The long extruded U-nuts are a close fit but some modifications to the cab are required so that the U-nut seats and locks flat.

 

A simple layout was done for the cut so that the notch cut included 45° angle cuts.

 

Careful cuts were made with a Dremel using a cutting disc.  The rounded square hole was then drilled out so that the U-nut lock seats flat, allowing the floorboards to mount close to the cab flange.  Eventually, all four carriage bolts were replaced with the U-nuts.  The U-nut does sit proud of the cab flange, but with the use of hardware store foam weatherstripping on the floorboards, the floorboards install into the cab nicely.  As the carriage bolt is helpful in holding the floorboards in position so that the other bolts can be installed, I addressed this by simply inserting screwdrivers through the floorboards into the U-nuts to act as temporary alignment dowels.

Edited August 22, 2021 by JBNeal
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[Brent B3B]

Wow thanks for posting  I have 6 cabs and none of them have that bolt to look at. I suspect they were pitched when the toe boards were pulled. 

What is the theory with thoes bolts? Does another washer and nut hold the toe board tight against the speed nut on the floor? Seems like it would wear through the floor mats.

[JBNeal]

The carriage bolt is held in place with the speed nut to the cab, to hold the floorboards while perimeter bolts are threaded into their J-nuts, acting as an alignment dowel of sorts.  Once all the fasteners are in place, the carriage bolts' nut and washer can be installed and then final torque can commence.  Since these carriage bolts are on the edge of the floorboards, the nut and washer installed sit slightly more proud than the bolt heads along the floorboards' perimeters.  With a backing pad on the floormat, these bolt heads, hex nut and carriage bolt threads can be covered without excessive wear on the floormat...it ain't perfect but it works