Original Patina

[pflaming]

I do not want to impose on the "Satin finish" thread so will restate my question in this new thread. First I really like the satin finish on the Chrysler. I didn't think I would. I saw a 48 Chrysler in Moro Bay CA that was sky blue, everyone turned to watch that car, and they would do the same on this black satin finish, nice look!

Will take Ed's advice and put the caps back on for I have the originals, and by keeping what is I save a lot of work and money. Yet I am do think something needs to be done to stop the surface rust and protect what color exists, so I will still consider sanding off the surface rust and primer those areas, and then clean and polish where there is color. A 'satin' clear coat over all after that is what I am unsure about. So I am interested in how others 'finish' a patina look.

[55 Fargo]

Nice Truck, not sure how the Patina jobs are done, but could it be done with paint, that way it will protect the metal substrate also.

Mind you, if you clear over the truck, paint, patina and all, that should seal it up, to prevent further rusting, and risk of it spreading for a time.

I wouldn't worry about hijacking the Satin finish thread, it's about done..........Fred

[Young Ed]

Wonder how it would look if you sanded the rust off and just clear coated the entire truck? The clear coat might not stick to the bare metal but it would be a cool look if it did. Check out this one I see frequently at the friday night cruise I go to.

[pflaming]

The picture really illustrates your point. "As I found it" is another nice look! Went to a tractor antique show, the first time I enjoyed it, the second time all the D John Deeres looked the same. What I like about restored or partially restored old vehicals is the infinite variety of colors, options, etc.

I may not change anything except the tires, 20 year old rayons just don't seem safe to me.

[brian hood]

This is just my 25 cents worth ( which aint wort 24 cents) but I think it looks like a real survivor. I would think twice about painting it.

Brian

[pflaming]

Waiting for carbs and motor mounts to arrive so started on the brakes!!!! Cannot remove the back drums, tried a puller, been driving against the drum with a good hammer, no luck, so took a break and put some fine grit polish on the corner of the cab. NOT BAD! Going to polish the old truck and enjoy it!

Lunch time now, then back to brakes, guess I will need to use the torch, maybe start at the axle! Maybe just get an entire rear axle and brakes and forget the frustration!

Woke up from a nice nap and decided to forget the back brakes, gonna change the axle anyway so that is now a non issue. Ed, thanks anyway.

[Young Ed]

A good puller should be all thats needed for the rear brakes. You need one that bolts to 3 of the lugbolts and pushes on the axle. The ones I use tighten with a hammer. If the drum doesnt come off you just need a bigger hammer.

[Reg Evans]

I've always wanted to preserve the patina of one of my old clunkers and I think Elbert,my 49 Suburban,would be a good candidate for this. Most of the original paint is still there but very oxidized. Mother Nature gave him a clear coat last winter and I liked the look of the old paint and bruises showing through.

Before the clear coat.

After the clear coat.

[Frank Elder]

Paul,

You can use a clearcoat with flatner added so the paint will retain it's faded finish.

[pflaming]

Reg, all you did was clear coat that car? That is FANTASTIC!!. How much prep did you do on the paint before your coated it? You got to bring this to the spring BBQ at Clements.

Frankie, thank you. Flattner, good, going to remember that. Going to clean first, need to know what NOT to use so that the clear coat will stick. So far on the corner where I experimented I (1) washed that corner with lacquer thinner, (2) cleaned it with a fine grit polish cleaner, and (3) washed it. Then I took the picture posted. I was astonished how much color was under 20 years of 'sunburn', getting anxious to do it all.

Paul

[Normspeed]

That's a good tip.

Reg and Pflaming, those are both great survivors.

I'd really like to get mine done in satin black but I'm torn between that and leaving it the way it is. Mine has minimal rust, tons of parking lot chips, two layers of black paint, the top layer being a very shoddy backyard job by the P.O. It even has brush marks on the hood. But like some people say, it's only original once. For now I'm going with the easy choice...do nothing.

[hkestes41]

You can also use the clear designed to go over the plastic or rubber bumpers on newer cars. One of the guys on the HAMB named Clark has used this method on a few and the results look pretty good. It is more of a semi-gloss than a flat and give the paint kind of a "glow" when the light hits it.

Here are a few that he has done.

Or you could always go with the bare look like Bass another HAMBer with a Hemi powered 29 coupe.

[Don Coatney]

Reg, all you did was clear coat that car?

Mother nature clear coated the car.

I read it sat out in the rain.

[pflaming]

Normspeed: Nice '53, really nice! Haven't seen moons for ages. Had them on my '50 plymouth. Will scan a pic and post later!

[Reg Evans]

Mother nature clear coated the car.

I read it sat out in the rain.

You read correctly Don.

[BobT-47P15]

Or, around here, the ice storm......freezing rain.

[John-T-53]

ok, here's a product that I just came across, that might be of interest/use to the patina folks....

 

https://thecraftsmanblog.com/product/the-patinator/

 

"The Patinator" .... could be a good nickname for a vehicle too!

[Plymouthy Adams]

Patinator is a dictator named Patina....notice carefully that the ad is accurately portraying the product for brass or bronze....non ferrous metal will patina...steels rust....

[Flatie46]

Years ago there was a 39 or 40 ford a guy did a really good patina paint job on that was in Hot Rod mag. He painted rust and stains on it. The kicker was it was a fiberglass body. 

  Its really hard to fake it and it turn out right.

[pflaming]

Flatie46, faux patina is exactly that. I can appreciate the idea but prefer to protect what time or accident caused. There were a number true patina vehicles at the show, I'm sorry I didn't photograph them. This pic shows a couple.

[MackTheFinger]

The clearcoat is peeling off my 1993 other make pickup.. Is that patina?? ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

no that is pathetic.....but if a 93 and just starting..count your lucky stars

[kendall]

I purchased a glossy painted truck and thought I might like it Matt. I used a 3m 3000 grit disc on  an (r.a.) sander on one front fender .I didn't like it as much as the gloss so I just buffed her back. I believe I'll keep the fenders gloss and matt the cab and hood down the road though. Two-toned and two-textured. If your car has enough paint on it, play with that in lieu /before top coating. 

[MackTheFinger]

12 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

no that is pathetic.....but if a 93 and just starting..count your lucky stars

 

I've noticed that rust and peeling and faded paint is acceptable only on certain vehicles.. Seems weird.. The pickup I mentioned is in good condition , no rust or dents and the clear is only peeling on the hood. I sure ain't gonna do $2k worth of paint and bodywork on a $1.5k vehicle, particularly one I only drive about a thousand miles a year. 

Benign neglect, that's the ticket.. ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

it is all about perspective...you can take this average to older than normal useful vehicle of daily status and carefully let it age and if all is well the neglect will be blessed by the fact you chose the right car to let fall in disrepair as all of a sudden, it is an iconic collectible car.....but on the other hand, maybe there is something to just letting a sleeping dog lie...