kendall

The first photo shows my doomed first setup. I wanted to keep the original Dodge crossover at the bell housing as well as the floor mounted pedal and have nothing cross the top of the engine. Bad idea and/or execution! . Everything hung from the intake. Too many joints and direction changes made the gas pedal-feel vague. Four years of this and finally accepted the fact that I would have to run linkage across the top of my Edgy head. I purchased a Lokar pedal and cable, fabbed a wire loom to fix the cable at the midpoint, attached hime-joints, brackets and collars on a s.s. rod to two short brackets from headbolts. This has been the greatest performance improvement on the truck since ownership and I removed a bucket of worn-out iron in the process.

I liked the shield on my original but could not find another. I fabbed these, using hubcaps for the top, acrylic for the shield and aluminum plate for the base. The filters are K&N designed to fit a Briggs& Stratton lawn mower. Just after installing these, I discovered a beehive air filter with the proper throat that would look great next to the oil filter mounted on my firewall. I've got too much cash and time spent to swap these out though.

Extra piece of mind; the Club on the steering wheel and an unmarked electric fuel pump shut-off providing you eliminate the stock pump.

I've pushed my license pl'hate' under my bumper and will slide it out only prior to the cuffs being slapped on me.True story; When I was 16, I replaced my '65' Comet rear bumper with a painted pan and did not want to ruin the 'look' with a plate. I fabricated a bracket for the plate inside my rear window along with flashlight illumination. A few nights later, the 'law' takes notice! I'm dodging a cop's spotlight but he's just far enough away where I try to lose him around suburban streets. Every corner I hightail around, he's close behind with that damn blinding spotlight in my rearview mirror. Defeated, I pull over and expect the worst. No cop, only my own flashlight that had come loose from the bracket and was slapping around my rear window at every corner. Went legal the next morning.

Good eye, Radar. I bought the Heritage Springer Softtail new in '98'. I decided to go 'VL' with it. Xzotic knuckle rocker boxes, I inverted the fender struts and frenched the taillight. H.D. surface mounted and spot welded them back in 1932. I ordered the Dodge wire wheels from the same wheel smith as the bike's, only 19 years later.

Just about out of that luxury item called 'space'. I had to go to shorter valve stems and a plate in lieu of of a dish style hubcap to squeeze this into my garage! No complaints until I knock something over tho.

Here is the modified a.t.v. frame painted to match the truck's color. The legs were moved outward for space for a larger drawer. The earlier holes are seen plugged but not yet varnished.The skateboard wheels allow the setback to fold flat.The trunk is really a lockable drawer. I made certain that the setback didn't interfere with the rear window radius. That established o.a. height. All the finishes carry over from the cab interior. Just when I think the job's done, I'm reminded of what a fellow prison inmate, dude's name was Martha by the way, screamed at everyone on my cellblock, "ACCESSORIZE, BITCHES!"

A cruise ship. Here's a shot of it being maneuvered through decks. Naval architects preplan for every occurrence it seems.

Sent my crank from a 230 c.i.d. for machining and three weeks later Fed-x shows up with this! It must be a shaft from the 25" block. I may modify my block with 'J-B Weld' and go with oversized pistons.

I'm about 90% complete on a removable jump-seat/ storage box for my surf-theme '47'. The bench is made of recycled oak flooring over a modified a.t.v. rear seat frame. The red ribbing matches my cab floor. The seat-back is a skateboard deck covered in my interior upholstery. The box is fabbed out of a 4' x 4' sheet of marine 'Starboard' and covered with my leftover headliner. I ordered steam-trunk hardware online to disguise it. I've been tapping rivets with my little hammer like a shoe cobbler in my kitchen all evening. Finally a lockable space for my jack, jump starter, tools and toys. Box is 32"w. x 22" d. x 12" h. This set-up could work in any truck bed and the seat could be 'hung' from the side bedwalls minus my subframe as well.

My neighbor's oak smacked a Ford while the truck was cruising about 40 m.p.h. a few months back.The driver was hospitalized, probably shock.It was a sunny and windless day.

You could go exclusively electric, cross over the bell housing and up the firewall for a much shorter run.

I remember vaguely searching for some red translucent tail-light lens replacement to legalize a beater. The rubber-banded cellophane from the ends of a bunch of bananas worked for me. Here is a period correct badge/topper mounted on my firewall. Another pair found their home on some preexisting holes in my radiator brackets. None are stamped 'Ram' but better define 'Me'. Radarwheel's egg-crate addition to his red lens turns improv to an art form, 5 stars! As I imagine it, a 1/2" grid would project thru. the plex.

hey RNR1957, When and "where you get ejikated?" I'm a Kansas State Arch. grad, 1979. If I were installing a decorative ram badge to my truck, I would have it adorn my firewall or perhaps the interior's side kick plates or the seat apron. Maybe create a license plate topper with it.

I debadge my new cars immediately. I especially enjoy pulling off the dealer installed badge/ad while still in the lot. I would rather drive with foam tape residue stuck on my new trunk lid than advertise for someone whom I paid and not vice versa. The photo is a remnant of my 66 Dart GT badging / advertising, now adorning my drafting table.

The fun part of where you're at is there is no wrong solution. My personal opinion on the lower grill color would depend on what happens at the rear of the truck.Whether its a nonfendered flatbed or a pick-up. I think what you have allows a better balance of two-tone if no color goes behind the cab and there is no need to mimic the fender/body separation that occurs at the bed .Bringing the hood color down to the bumper emphasizes the narrow nature of the early 2-person cab and your scheme disguises it. Both good. Sooooo many choices!

These are '47' stock colors and maybe the dark green you're imagining.I'm wondering what a very light green tint to your white might look like.

Solid, slow and steady is the nature of this beast . Savor it for what it is. My 2 cents

I got this RAT in my dining-room that I fed spare Dodge truck parts to. Now he won't leave.

A great compromise between aerosol bombs and powdercoating is this stuff I get from my local auto body supply. Before you spray, you insert a provided tool into the bottom of the can. A hardener is then released into the paint and a super hard finish is the result. They mix any color of your choosing. I pay $23 a can at Finishmasters. Expensive but no reducers, hardeners, strainers, formulas, etc. and goes on smooth and opaque to the bottom of the can. Great for cab interior work too.

I have a free tank from a 47 that's banged up on the bottom but never leaked if you're interested. It may be rusted from being out in the elements for about a year. I could check and snap photos. I believe it is shorter than yours but I believe a sheet metal spacer is available to allow the use of the truck's existing mounting holes. I'm in Jacksonville, Florida.

Now to get my passengers to wear them. Instead of pointing to the instruction card in the seatback like your typical airline steward, I have them pop the glovebox and let the Captain have at them!

I discovered there is only one place to install the belt hanger without rubbing and perfectly vertical as the mfr. required and that was in space. I did not want to weld so I fabbed these aluminum brackets. The 3/8" plate fastens to the doorframe w/ 5/16" hardened bolts. The 1/2" bar runs to the window surround, converting some shear to compression. I'll paint the exposed aluminum green to match in the future.

If your cardboard kick panels are ratty and warped like mine were, a solution is to leave them off and expose some of the factory stamping for an industrial look. It also squeezes a little more 'virtual' space out of a naturally narrow cab. I thought creating pockets within and displaying/storing vintage maps would be cool. Some of the vertical painted sheetmetal was added to correspond/align with the two stamped recesses below it. I think this concept will work better if some or all of your floor is exposed. Ever buy a house and peel back the carpet to find beautiful 1-1/2" oak plank below? That's what I felt when I removed the previous owner's carpet from this truck. No way was I not going to expose the beautiful bones of these trucks by recovering it.