Los_Control

I would only add that the wire does come out the steering box and not the side of the tube. I personally would run a small stiff wire up through the column, catch your new horn wire and pull it down through the column. Would seem like a impossible task to feed the wire from the top to get it through the steering box.

I had low pedal the first time I bled my brakes. A:, I never properly bench bled the MC. B:, I never properly adjusted the brake shoes ..... I always first get hydraulic pressure to set them in place .... then adjust. C:, Turns out I had a small leak from improper fittings ..... So I ordered/installed correct fittings. ..... While I had brakes that needed adjusting, I let it sit for a month and had none because of the fittings. I'm only suggesting that I never heard of complaints with low pedal from the swap .... I have it but blame it 100% on me. I fully expect to have decent pedal the next time I bleed the brakes .... I have corrected all my mistakes except bench bleeding it. I feel if it is needed I can do it while installed on a under floor MC. @lostvikingare you certain you have done everything correct? I know from past experience a firewall mounted MC is impossible to get bled properly once mounted. Not sure why I think I can do it fine in my under the floor system ...... You can never get the proper throw from a brake pedal rod to purge the air from a MC .... you need to disconnect the brake pedal & manually push in the cylinder ..... very easy on a bench, tough when installed. ..... I have installed a new MC on my 1969 mustang and never got good pedal from it. ..... Until I removed it, bench bled it and re-installed it. Properly installed I have not heard of complaints from others about low pedal ..... yes I have it, but totally my fault.

In the past I have asked a similar question. Do we need a proportioning valve for this conversion? I think the general consensus is .... no, if you are running drum brakes all the way around. Yes, if you convert to disk brakes. Further discussions on it, some of the older MC have a proportioning valve built in ..... The Toyota may be one of them ... I have no proof it is. The only importance to that is ..... The Toyota MC has a single bowl feeding both front & rear .... so I do not know which line should feed front or rear. Or even if it matters? ..... I figure if my rear brakes work harder or lock up before the front, then I will switch the lines around. Others who have done the conversion using stock drum brakes are happy with it. I did the same thing with no proportioning valve installed .... they seem to work fine but have not yet driven it on the road. One problem I ran into was the MC is 10mm threads for the lines, I have 1/4" lines. I had to order a adapter to go from 10mm > 3/16" then another adapter from 3/16">1/4"

I'm very much in awe of all the amazing miracles that happen in the universe .... eclipse scientifically explained is not that exciting but still a wonderful thing. Solar eclipses are fairly numerous, about 2 to 4 per year, but the area on the ground covered by totality is only about 50 miles wide. In any given location on Earth, a total eclipse happens only once every hundred years or so, though for selected locations they can occur as little as a few years apart. Child birth is a total miracle how life begins ..... yeaaah, I'm not going out of my way to watch that either

It was about 15-18 years ago not sure what year. I was in Albuquerque and it was being played up everywhere .... we were going to be in the zone. I have never had the opportunity before ..... it was on the weekend, I was off work, the wife was at work ...... I drug a lawn chair up on the roof, had a 6 pack of beer .... real cheesy cheap sunglasses that everyone was selling so you could look at it .... Just saying I was pumped up and into it .... when it actually happened I was left with a lot of questions. What I saw, as if the sun went behind a cloud for a second ...... Why is everybody so excited about this? You going to watch the eclipse? Cool it is going to be a good time, have fun! Me? ..... Naw, think I'm going to be busy that day

Hrm

Just make one .... it is a square. I used a old head bolt out of the coffee can and ground it down til it would fit with the bench grinder. Took about 5 minute. Then the next time I needed it I could not find it ..... took about 3 minute to make another ...... When I put it away I thought I'm going to put this in the drawer with the wrenches because thats where it belongs ..... I then found the first one in that drawer. Now I have 2 but it really is to simple, not worth the trouble to try and find and buy the tool.

I admit I learned something new yesterday. When op stated there was no drain plug I was wondering if they had a different rear end swapped in ..... because I thought all these old mopars had drain plugs ..... so my pun "somebody else's rear end" came out. Odd that the rear end now being talked about has 2 fill plugs .... makes me wonder if a previous owner has been mixing and matching parts .... taking the pumpkin out of one model and installing it in this model to get better or different gears. .... That could explain two fill plugs. I dunno though, Dodge is pretty strange sometimes ..... I have a Dodge 3.3 V6 that rides around in the back of my chebby all week .... it has 2 drain plugs on the oil pan .... one on each side. I suppose their is a reason for it somewhere .... I do not know what it is.

My 49 has a drain plug ..... had to make a special tool to remove it ..... lost it and made another tool .... then found the first tool I made. If this thread was about modern mopars we would be giving different advice ..... @hep2jive just being silly and thats fine.

Not sure who's rear end you are looking at ..... All Mopars I've worked on has a drain plug ..... chebbies you actually loosen the rear cover to drain oil .... Maybe you just looking at the wrong rear end?

We were ..... just some in class were not paying attention Gl5 is fine for the differential ..... Just be sure to read the label first and you will be fine.

I admit I made a very broad statement and it is not true in every case. Same time many cars were having issues because GL5 was not taking care of them ...... they got a bad reputation. .... Seems for the oil industry it was simple to just start including the needed additives to the oil. ..... so it was fixed. If you want to get into brake fluids .... modern fluids are not compatible with older fluids .... not such a easy fix ..... It is buyer beware or buyer needs to be informed. GL5 use to be the same way, but it was just easier to fix the problem by adding the additives ..... brake fluid is not the same way and you actually need to know something.

I find it hard to believe but I was a total ass the other day. I'm going on a road trip to the wrecking yard to pickup a engine. ..... Wife wants to go along for the ride. ..... Can we stop at walmart? ..... I want a hamburger ..... I was leaving walmart and pulling into whataburger and it was just about 12:15 lunch time place was packed .... I was just lost in oblivion as I slowly turned into the parking lot wondering how to proceed ..... totally forgetting about the lane I was blocking ..... Yes sirs ... I got the horn honk and the finger I totally deserved.

So another year went by ..... I guess when I get pissed off at a car I get pissed So I did get the work done on the 49 dodge, I can now put Lady Belle back in the work area. And I actually want to work on it again .... simply could not find a 30 year old used engine locally with less then 180K miles on it. I was looking at buying a short block for $950 .... But the build time was simply a minimum of 3 months out. Then I looked again over the weekend and a engine with 135k showed up locally and I grabbed it. I paid full price this time, it actually has a 90 day warranty .... so I better get it installed. I bought the engine on Monday, this is Wednesday and it still is not unloaded No sense in getting in a rush about these things. ..... There is old Hound dog sitting on the side pushed out of the line up. Sometimes staying married is important .... Happy wife happy life.

I will only add that as years have gone by the oils have improved as cars have improved/turned to junk. GL5 oil got a bad name for awhile because it no longer had additives in it for the softer metals such as brass. ..... Modern cars do not have softer metals in them. So it is important to read the labels and see that it does protect these metals. GL1 oil was just fine for these old cars and worked for years .... just getting hard to find because nobody really wants it .... GL5 is better quality in most peoples mind. Is available and cheaper ..... just read the label to be sure it protects soft metals.

Rich, have you drained or changed any of that oil lately? I have been buying the walmart gallon jugs it is 85-145 gl5 ..... I ran it in my chebby truck and changed it about 6 months ago .... then again I changed it about 2 weeks ago .... while searching for a problem that did not exist 😜 The 6 month old oil was full of air bubbles. Let it sit in the pan for 4 hours and they never went away. Now I'm hesitant to recommend the walmart supertech oil. .... I do have it in my truck now and it has about 600 miles on it. I think it is possible I over filled the rear end and that is causing the aeration. .... My truck the fill level is 5/8" below the fill plug. I always out of habit fill it up til it runs out, then a couple more quick squeezes and cap it off. So technically I'm about 3/4" overfilled. Really grasping at straws thinking that is the problem. My plan is to run it for a few weeks, maybe today drain some out to get it down to proper level. If it is full of bubbles again I'm going to change brand of oil, no more walmart oil for me. I sure would like to hear a good report from someone on it ..... currently until I check it again, I'm not that person.

IMHO, Runtz is just a known name and respected everywhere .... I just did not like the shipping prices. So I'm going with a unknown product for a cheaper price. It is a really simple operation they do ..... maybe it will be fine. I have heard of others buying a few resistors and soldering them inline to do the same thing .... beyond my knowledge though.

I will probably regret it. Yesterday I went to order the runtz from speedway. I actually need 2 of them. They wanted over $22 for shipping, would be $40 for 1 item. So I searched Amazon for the same item and found these. ..... A 2 pack for $12.99 total was $21 with shipping. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MZVXHP5?psc=1&smid=A1JX4L5CBS4J9K&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

I should not be sarcastic, broken sewer lines can be a real problem. I bought my house cheap not knowing what kind of sewer issue I had. ..... The tree stump should have been a clue. That stump is right on top of the original sewer line ..... House built in 1948, materials were hard to get back then ... they used some sort of asphalt tar type pipe with many joints in it that leaked. This tree grew big !!!! and totally ruined the sewer line. Honestly I look at it today and just feel sad .... This type of tree is just a weed, the original home owners got great shade from it on the back porch in the hot summer afternoons and loved it. Same time it caused great troubles with sewer issues ..... A wise man would have never let the weed take root there and keep growing in the first place. .... That tree grew for decades. I could see all the different patch repairs they did over the years to keep the sewer working ... I know this house was plagued with sewer issues .... Nobody took care of the real problem to solve it. I had to cut out the concrete on the porch, I spent a few days removing dirt from under the house, I then replaced everything with 4" pipe all the way to the alley. As soon as I cleared the house foundation I turned it to the right of the tree and used my heat gun on 4, 10' lengths of pipe and bent them to the curvature of the ditch I dug. The whole time I kept the elevation of the ditch exactly as original ..... 6 years later we have zero issues with the sewer ..... it just should have been fixed decades ago. It did take about a month for me to dig it all by hand and get a working sewer line again. Meantime wife & I had a 5 gallon bucket in the bathroom to use .... or we would hop in the car and go to the local gas station and use their can. ..... I got it fixed with a couple hundred $$ in material ..... to hire a crew would have been thousands $$ We have soft sand with no rocks here, the actual sewer line in the alley is 4' deep ..... so it was doable by hand, just took time. Clogged sewer lines are not fun. ..... Using a 5 gallon bucket for a month earns certain privileges for sarcasm

To me it sounds like you are mix matching wiring ..... I mean you have original and trying to add different? On my truck all the original cloth wiring was bad so I just removed it and am starting fresh. I'm a outcast and I'm running a 10DN GM alternator with a external voltage regulator .... I have a ballast resistor like @sniper mounted on the firewall energized from the key. Then it goes to the + side of 12 volt coil, the - side goes to distributor to feed the points. ..... That is all you need to get fire to the points to make the engine run. You do need to then get the starter to turn over. .... I have a stomp starter .... stomp on the mechanical button on the floor and starter activates .... I do not have a solenoid like yours. As long as you have fire going to the points, you could pull out your hand crank and start the engine .... just saying the solenoid needs to be converted to 12 volts, not stopping the engine from running though. The fuel pump running backwards is a real issue though. Many motors do not care if + or - ground, they work fine either way but they do need a voltage reducer .... your wiper motor will work really really fast, until it burns out. Same with the heater motor .... they need reduced. ...... Starter motor does not care, it will turn the engine over faster on 12V, just do not crank it for prolonged periods it will overheat eventually. The bulbs will all need switched to 12V. The fuel gauge needs to be reduced. A original factory radio designed for 6V + ground will never work with 12V - ground, without major internal surgery ..... I'm sure someone figured out a workaround .... usually they are just internally converted to modern insides while looking original externally. Going 12V - ground would be the obvious choice if converting to 12V .... As far as getting power to your points to run ..... Something in your wiring is the issue. Why all mine was removed with no hesitation 5 years ago, start fresh with a clean slate.

So why fix it? .... Bet the garden would have done great this year

I have a kit up in the garage attic I purchased but not used yet. I can dig them out and give some dimensions on what others have done. Naturally that means I need to put on some shoes and go out to the shop .... I suppose 3:00 Saturday afternoon is good time as any to get dressed OK here is a complete Rusty Hope kit, just brackets, a few spacers and fasteners ..... then instructions and part numbers to complete it. Rumor has it they went out of business like many others The brackets are 3/8" steel. A common issue with the kit was when you assemble it, when you installed the the nut to adjust the bearings and hold it all together ... the final assembly was so thick you could not get the cotter key in to hold the nut in place and was a few work around. Something to think about when doing mock up. Some pretty basic angles for milling, I imagine a plasma cutter or oxy/act could do the curves with some hand grinding to finish it of?

I understand your hesitance to social media, especially pay pal ..... I dropped them 2 years ago like a hot potato after their new political guide lines. ebay I kind of look at like a necessary evil ..... like a cell phone. The link the viking posted is a nos spring for $10 + shipping. ..... You can beat yourself over the head looking for a different spring or just buy it. If you feel that strongly about it, pm me and maybe I could purchase it and send it to you.

Thats pretty cool, love the story on it and looks pretty complete. Looking forward to a build thread on it .... love to follow the progress. The non paint looks like my truck when I got mine. .... just no paint left. Was a lot of work to get paint on it.

If it were me, I would only cut them as a last resort ..... not because it is a good idea and how it was always done. To replace the drums is very expensive, I only know one supplier charging $400 each ..... To me I feel better off doing a rear end swap with better gears, brakes, E-brake, u-joints for a cheaper price. Depends what you want though .....If going for total restore you want original. I can share a 1960 Dodge 1/2 ton truck can be used right up til they cant. Mine wore so thin that the drum actually split in 1/2 .... The one drum came off in two rings ..... still had brakes to drive it home & replace it. As others have said, at this day and age there was many things that nobody cared about and was not documented. I would just be more concerned with how much meat was left on the drum and how safe it would be to use ..... I bet many modern replacement drums come to a certain spec, not even able to turn them once .... just throw away and replace.