Los_Control

I believe you are 100% correct here, ..... sand and shoot again. You need to use the Rustoleum straight out of the bucket with a $1 paint brush ..... you will have a better quality paint job on your floors then what it was born with 75 years Ago. .... you can spend more $$$ .... I figure my job as a caretaker is to make it better then I found it ..... If the next guy wants it perfect, more power to them. As far as my issue, sorry for busting in on your thread and complaining about my problem .... I can start a new thread when ready to deal with it. That will be a month or two away .... truck is just put on the back burner for now while I take care of other spring projects. Same time for a hound dog hauler, it might just be fine as is.

First of all 40 psi above idle is not bad, at idle as long as it is close to 10 psi I feel you would be alright. As you say polishing the crank was done in the vehicle if needed. What you need to be concerned with is checking the specs with plastigauge. Myself I'm spoiled with growing up in a world where a machine shop was close by, I could drop a 6 cyl chebby head off and have it completely rebuilt and pick it up 3 days later .... for $75. So it was naturally just the quickest easiest way to do a job. Today we need to find a machine shop, then you are lucky if you can get them to work on your stuff in the next 3 months. Then the price is outrageous. If you have ridges you can catch a finger nail on or can see, they should be removed as they will just dig into the new bearings. ..... polish, polish, polish. If they actually look good, then you just need to be concerned with wear. I personally would not polish if they look good, might make them worse. So it comes time to install the bearings and use the plastigauge ..... all check within specs but one is out .... Now is the time to sit back and drink a cool adult beverage .... use the aluminum can to cut a shim and install it behind the bearing so the bearing reads specs. This trick will work for more years then I can count ..... Our Grandpa's did not have machine shops or money to pay them. We did growing up ..... Today it seems like we really do not have that option unless you are willing to wait months. GET UNDER THERE AND FIX IT!!! Make your Grandpa proud.

OMG ...... it is certainly fun to live in my world .... 🤣 You said you picked up a couple B&B's ..... I thought you mis-spelled and picked up a couple B1B's ..... Carry on. Kind of a tough situation ..... whatever you use you do not want to get the removed paint inside of the carbs and clog them up.

Pics or it never happened .... ! I will not be the best one to advise, am curious what they look like ...... Obvious first impression is what paint did they use? The problem here is the preparation of the paint .... will it last? .... I get you do not like the runs ..... Will it fall off in 6 months or will it last for years? These are the questions ..... possibly lust a rough sand and epoxy primer to lock it all in ...... $$$ Can you scuff it up and re-shoot it? Working with a poor previous paint job on two pilothouse trucks just brings up lots of questions .... you do not think we would just leave it there?

Just some thoughts here .... you pulled the transmission to replace the mounts .... what condition is the clutch pressure plate in .... did you inspect any of it while you have the trans out? Is it possible you knocked the pilot bearing out of position removing the trans? ... now it is not allowing the trans to go back in ... did you insert your trusty little clutch alignment tool to see it goes in? Sometimes when things do not go as planned, I wonder if I do not have a little Angel sitting on my shoulder saying no no no, you are not going to do this. Unless I know the condition and the miles on the clutch components, I would pull the bellhousing and inspect everything .... then proceed with re-installation as if I was installing a new clutch ..... and it may be your Angel sitting on your shoulder guiding you this way .... so you do not have to take it all apart again next week .... Of course chicken blood spread around the outside of the shop has been known to keep those pesky little Angels away

Something I have not figured out on my Rustoleum paint job yet. I love just using it straight out of the can with a brush for frame, suspension floors. .... My final product spraying the body, it looks ok but feels rough. When I run my hand over it it feels ruff ..... typically you would expect smooth. ..... Just not sure where I messed up here. I painted this little garden shed with Rutoleum white, run your hands over it and it is smooth. I painted this thing and it feels rough, not quite a corn cob rough .... but you feel it. .... Just not sure what I did wrong here. My $15 harbor freight gun had 10k miles on it before I sprayed the truck? Is it possible the low gloss black paint just comes out this way? Did I use the wrong hardener? I feel like something went wrong here and I'm not sure what it is. ..... 100% satisfied with the first car I ever painted .... I think I can improve on this though. Either way I still need more paint. Fenders are not painted, final paint in interior .....so I'm thinking about wet sanding and get it smooth then mask it off and spray it again. Certainly would be curious what others say about a final rough spray.

Thanks for the recognition, really not needed though .... I appreciate your hard efforts to keep this site going for us. I just felt bad this year, was a little later then normal. Was just a busy time for me this year for many issues .... including death of a family member ..... I'm hoping I'll be on time next year

As a side note, removing the carbon in the plug hole was my bone head move. I just used a 16 penny nail and punched though. When I started the truck it ran for about 30 seconds really rough as the carbon got stuck under the exhaust valve .... then it passed through and was fine .... I think. The valves clearly are not seating perfectly from sitting 20+ years .... I'm hoping a nice long drive in the country will go a long ways .... possible I damaged the valve seat with the carbon .... time will tell. If I could do it over again, I would put some grease on a sharp drill bit and drill the carbon out .... most particles would get stuck to the grease and any in the cylinder would be harmless. I just find it strange that a loaner tool would not go through a spark plug hole .... Amazon has several from $12.99 & up depending on your phone ..... Here is one for $33 and needs no phone. ..... I do not have one yet, I expect to pick one up when the need arises. DOH!!! what a idiot I am, the spark plugs on a flathead are over the valves not the cylinder ..... so close you wont see much .... the tdc pipe plug will probably be best access.

Are you suggesting I need to wash the washer/dryer in the garage??? ..... Blasphemy!

I sprayed all body panels including the inner fenders and outer fenders ..... hung them up on a clothes line. I just used my best judgement when I would use the brush .... Underneath is all brushed, all sheet metal is sprayed. So far I'm satisfied with the outcome. I painted it last fall with no light under a dark carport. .... I'm not 100% happy. I did spray the whole gallon. Which is actually the 2nd gallon of paint on this truck .... 1 gallon was just for frame & suspension. .... What I'm not happy with, I laid it on thick but have a couple light spots. The surface is rough when you run your hand over it. ..... There are some blotches in it, making the gloss level different. I'm thinking some wet sanding and polish/wax would go a long ways ..... Same time I do not have paint for the rear fenders .... $100 more, I will wet sand it and shoot it again. This was painted last fall, never been washed or messed with .... it lives outside. ..... I'm fine with it as is, I think for $100 and some labor I can improve it .... possible it never happens and just left as is? ..... Should update my thread on it .... just too busy with spring gardening and working on the wife car.

For the floor pans this is what I would suggest, or what I did. I also painted my whole truck with it. I buy $1 nylon paint brushes 2.5" wide from the dollar store. I actually have a bag of them hanging on the wall .... use it and throw it away. I bought the paint from tractor supply and primer from Ace hardware. The paint is DTM (direct to metal) so primer is not needed. The paint really does lay down heavy with a brush but it flows good leaving no brush marks ..... After a hour the paint does melt the nylon brushes and it is kinda like spreading paint with a stick .... The $1 brushes will last about 1 hour though. I'm interested in the gallon can because I painted frame, suspension everything and then I used same paint to spray the body. I also found that if I did not use the paint right away, I could not properly seal the open can again. Come back a month later and there would be 3/4" of dried paint on top. I would dig that out and use the paint underneath ..... pretty wasteful. For floor pans maybe a quart can is better .... use it as you go. I'm 100% happy with using Rustoleum with a brush and I would do it again. ..... While rattle cans have their place, I would not consider it for frames or floors. All brushed on thick & heavy and cheaper then rattle cans.

I'm a firm believer in using spray paint where it actually is needed ..... I use it often all the time ..... as far as epoxy appliance paint ..... nothing better or worse then straight up spray paint. I have used it for touch up paint on the wife white car ..... I see no sign it is better or worse then other spray cans .... just has a fancy name.

I admit to being a odd bird .... yes I have a a spray can of epoxy white ..... I actually use it for touch up on the washer/dryer in the garage. I cant even imagine using it for the floors of my car ...... I say anything is better then nothing ..... just not my first or 10th choice. Nothing wrong with using it, just nothing I would set out intentionally to use in my vehicle .... Just white paint .... who paints their floors white?

I will agree with everyone ...... pull the switch in and out a zillion times to clean the contacts ...... I actually took my switch apart and cleaned it mechanically then greased it .... yanking it in and out many times will get the same outcome ..... same issue with my stomp starter .... not use it for awhile and it gets corrosion and fails to work .... stomp on it many times and it works again. Same thing with a bad dimmer switch, it will cause many issues if it is bad ..... I'm not convinced it will improve with stomping on it ..... If it goes bad it will be a issue.

At least NPT is the same in both Canada & USA Same deal with my tank, from Tanks. Uses NPT. ..... I used a flexible line from the tank to a filter mounted on the frame rail. I thought about running hard line to the frame then add a filter ..... such a short run on a truck just not worth it.

Going to steal some photo's from the internet ..... You need to break the tire away from the wheel. .... here soap and water helps. Then as 9' box says, there is a notch in the ring. That notch is there exactly for removing the ring from the wheel. .... you just get it started and work it loose. First you want to smack it around a little bit to get it loose. Rust forms and wants to stick to the rim .... you do not want to damage the ring though. .... If the tire is loose & the ring is loose .... ring comes off easily. Just remember, the ring is a spring of sorts. And we can see the lip on the spring as it is being pulled out of the wheel. If that lip is damaged in anyway from rust or bent ..... You do never put it back together. Because the ring is a sort of spring. when you lay it flat on concrete .... it may not lay flat. If there is any damage or bends to the ring .... it is junk. If you take apart a wheel and it looks like this ...... I would never put back together a wheel that looks like this. The wheel may be just fine, it needs to be sandblasted and inspected thoroughly before deciding. Your carefully inspected lock ring needs to mount to the wheel ..... If the wheel is heavily rusted .... you might lose your head. Nobody should mount a tire on that wheel in it's present condition ..... unless you a farmer, they play by a different set of rules. There is a bit of a process to remove the tires from your old wheels, not really difficult though. .... I say get them dismounted and show pics of what you have. Then we can move forward. I suspect any full service truck stop that takes care of 18 wheelers can change the tires ..... because of current condition they just do not want to waste time on them .... welcome to classic vehicles where we do the work so they do not have to. ...... Bring them fully restored wheels and they will be happy to take your $$

nowhere near me but would be curious to know more about it. This is a 1940 Plymouth sedan has a 413 Chrysler engine with the 727 transmission. Engine and transmission and steering column professionally installed. It is a project car it does need to be finished. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/440774855160232/

Sadly they nay or may not have them .... They do have a nice goodbye letter .... just selling off what they have in stock but think they wrote it 2 years ago. https://www.rustyhope.com/

Reminds me of a story about old Uncle Cletus. ..... The girls in town would claim he needs to go home and clean that input shaft up .... What the heck do they know? IMHO, the splines on this shaft look really nice with sharp edges on the teeth ..... little wear on the front of the shaft. To me it is like the first 1" of the shaft that inserts into the pilot shaft bushing ..... I would want that really smooth . I would use some emery cloth to smooth it up .... same time i would not want to remove any material and make it smaller ...... I would put some grease on the end of the shaft and shove it into the bearing. I doubt I would ever have a issue with it years down the road. The 2nd photo you showed, looks a little awkward ..... It may work also. If needed.. The very front 1" of the shaft sits in the bearing. Just saying the very first 1" sits in the bushing. The clutch disk is splined and rides on the splines of the input shaft. The pressure plate is behind the clutch disk, and the throw out bearing is behind the pressure plate ..... Nothing matters between the the splines and the front of shaft .... Only that the front 1" is smooth for the pilot shaft bearing. Thats why I say the 2nd photo is awkward .... It looks good 1" in front but then has a groove cut into it ...... That area is simply not in use .... nobody cares .... the factory cut a groove in it for some reason ..... Just pick the best one to use. You will be fine.

I admit to going to tractor supply often also. My jack stands, floor jacks .... Boots, bolts, the paint on my truck, plants and garden supplies. I think of it as a big convenience store that sells things I like .... I recently went there to look at oil. I buy my oil from walmart usually, I need Dexron III ATF for the wife car. Walmart did not have it. So I looked at TSC ... they did not have it either. I will order from Amazon now. What I did see was some pretty incredibly high prices for oil at TSC. Oil at walmart was $20-$40 for 5 quarts, $40-$65 at tsc for same stuff. I like tsc but not for oil. .... And the shelf's were pretty bare.

C'mon now, my story and get to tell it the way I want .... 🤣🤣🤣 Not sure what is more important, chatting with my 85 year old Uncle on the front porch on a spring day telling me the story ..... Or the actual truth to the story. I sure would like some more days with Uncle telling me some stories ....

Interesting here .... left side looks centered while right is not. Is it possible one of your frame horns is bent? Have you checked bolt hole alignment with your bumper? Just hard to say which side is off. Myself I think I would get the sheet metal lined up and bolted in place. Then figure out which side needs adjusted and how much. But, if one was bent the bumper holes would not line up .... If they do line up .... then both would have to be bent equally? If you raise the front nose up to fix door gaps, will the alignment of frame horns improve? My frame horns have approximately 3/4" space all the way around the horns ... top and sides.

On my truck when I took it apart, there were rubber spacers in the very front bolts for the core support. Adding spacers there, will raise the front and close the gap at top while opening the gap on the bottom. No idea if you have them in place. I have some new 1/4" rubber I cut mine out of, and were about the same as I removed. I also assume you have new rubber cab mounts .... they probably sit a little higher then the old dried out originals. So even if you installed the same rubber spacers up front ... you probably need to add more to match the new cab mounts. Just my best guess assuming you like the way the doors fit other then that. Just a 1/8" washer may fix the gap you show.

In the past I always just used a correct fitting socket to drive in a new pilot bushing. I like the idea of using bread to remove the old one ..... hydraulics work great. Driving a new one in was always just clean up the hole and pick a right size socket to fit the bushing. .... Then drive it home. I think it was one of those cheap 5/8" spark plug sockets we never use last install of my pilot bushing. ..... Just suggesting a special tool is not needed. What you want is a socket or spacer or something that actually fits well. A special tool is not needed, you just need a correct fitting socket from your tool box to install it. Same difference driving in a wheel bearing race or any other bearing .... You just need something that fits the race and will not destroy it while driving it in. So buying a special tool to drive in a pilot bushing ..... It might be a good tool, you might be better off just searching through your old junk sockets and drive it in that way. I'm just saying that a lot of cheap tools are available and never actually work. A cheap socket that cost you $5 to replace, may be the best tool. You are looking for a tool that will fit inside the hole .... sane time it will provide protection as the bushing is driven in ..... A screwdriver will cause damage ..... but a correct fitting socket will drive it home with no damage. ..... Never in my life did I buy a pilot bushing tool ..... For a $$$ you can buy a set of tools to install any bearing....thats up to you.

Glad you may have it figured out. Or think you do. I once rebuilt a carburetor for my Uncle 7 years ago. And when I opened it up I saw terrible looking goo. It looked like water in oil .... A chocolate milkshake. 85 year old Uncle complained because the carburetor had just been rebuilt and that did not fix it. I just never seen gunk like that build up in a carb. It was obvious to me the problem was coming from the fuel tank .... the 1979 Dodge truck had sat for years .... then revived and put back on the road. Uncle claimed he put $20 worth of gas in it every 6 months, but it was always adding fresh gas to old gas ..... Modern fuels to pass regulations today simply do not last more then 1 year .... just turns to goo. While it may be water in your fuel system, it could just as easily be old gas that has gone bad sitting in the tank. I'm only suggesting, thats what my Uncle did .... just kept adding new fuel on top of old. .... Ended up with a pile of goo. My understanding, modern fuel starts to deteriorate after 1 year. .... It simply turns to goo. ...... I have seen no evidence that adding new fuel on top of old rejuvenates it. I personally will drive the fuel out and then add more fresh fuel. Back in 1970's, Grandpa went and filled up every gas tank in his wrecking yard because the gas would last a long time .... Modern fuel is designed to implode on itself to help with evaporation. 1 year is considered it useful age and needs to be removed and replaced. Either way, drain the tank and flush the system may be a good idea here.