Los_Control

Not really what you asked, I have done this recently on a ford shoe box. While I had the seat out, I lubricated the tracks really well and worked them back and forth. This gave the seat a few more inches of travel, just been years since it had been moved that much. I still did relocate it, but when finished, the few inches I was able to move it was worthless. Just lubricating and working the tracks is all that was really needed for this job. Something you might try, and with the seat out, you can judge how far you could move it if needed.

this looks like the kit to install the radio and can see how small the bracket is.

This makes sense to me. I bought the same radio with same bracket. In my truck there is nothing close enough to mount the bracket to. I believe I will need to make a bracket to mount it to the firewall. Possibly this is why the poster brought up the steering column bracket, thinking the radio would mount to it. Just did a quick trial fit, that bracket as is, is worthless to mount the radio in the truck. Should be simple enough to fabricate one though. Is a tight fit to get the radio in there.

here is what mine looked like, and I bought brass replacements Here is a example of the deeper one I spoke of

I am still learning that part. I cleaned mine up, then installed new dry using a round pipe to tap tem in, and they did weep a little bit but seem to have stopped now. Others like to use a bit of sealant, then they drive them in hard enough to put a dimple in the middle, this spreads the plug out for a tighter fit. I think I need to go back and add the dimple so I feel better. To remove them, is real simple to use a self tapping screw in the plug, then use a pry bar or hammer to pull them out. They are 1 5/8" diameter. And they are fairly thin, and proper name is a welsh plug. A soft plug has a deeper recess and do not fit these engines. My local carquest store had both kind in stock, not a hard item to find.

I probably would not either ... usually this problem is accompanied with a engine running hotter then wanted. Your goal is to change the coolant. Would not want to create more work then needed. On the other hand, the soft plug above the starter is easy to get to, then the one behind the oil fill tube, with the tube removed ... a hose in the top one and flush it out the bottom, you would be surprised at how much will come out. And trying to get it all out of the little petcock drain hole may take days and still never get it. But if you have no issues, maybe flushing through the petcock will be all you need.

Should be standard pipe threads. My drain cock was the same way, I had the opportunity to pull the welsh plugs out and flush it that way. Now my petcock works and I never removed it.

Is this the bracket you are missing?

Not sure if you going for the gasser look, or you hauling gold bricks in the bed, you sure squatting there Sounds like a great day ahead!

good looking car. These cars were titled by the engine number. If you go to this site and look up your engine #, the p15 shows a engine from 1946-1948. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/pengines.html So a early 1949 has last years 1948 engine.This was really common to use up the current inventory before going to next model. I guess this is part of the challenge of old cars, you may need to learn the differences between a 1948 and a 1949, to know what else besides last years engine you have I have a 1949 truck, it was a late 49 and equipped with 1950 upgrades. Most obvious is the shifter moved to column and E brake moved to the dash board. Welcome to the mopar world

I also bought a book and labelled it as pure porn, some day I should take the wrapper off and look inside .... I would imagine 80/90 weight was the go to for decades, what I plan to use. I imagine the 80/90 would be a little easier when cold then straight 90. I also suspect that we have modern synthetic oils that could replace the 80/90. I would like to follow this thread and see if others have a decent modern replacement for the 80/90.

Just think how cool you would look, big and littles, Full fenders .... I bet @HotRodTractor be wanting one of these

Here is a hrmmm moment. I decided to go ahead and try to rebuild the master cylinder, it really seemed to be in good shape. It actually worked cleaning it up and putting back together. So I took it apart again and spent more time with it soaking and honing, and installed a new rubber cup. Then I bench bled it, it bled out quickly just a few strokes and no more air. When I bled it, I connected a temporary line to it with a rubber gas line to flex back into the reservoir ... improvising with what I had available. When I remove this line, naturally all the fluid runs out and the cylinder is dry. Wondering if I will have to try and bench bleed it on the truck again, before installing the real lines? Or if I just do not pump the cylinder before installing the lines it will be ok? I need to modify the routing of the new lines, did not want it pissing brake fluid all over me while under it working on them

There are a few oil caps to maintain on these old cars, most are awkward to get to. I use to always carry a zoom oil bottle with me when I had to maintain several swamp coolers. They have the same oil cups.

Cast iron can be welded, just a little tricky to make it work. I like the phrase I heard elsewhere. "We did not know we could not weld cast iron, so we did it anyways." They been cutting and welding dual exhaust to these manifolds for decades.

Sounds like you have a good plan. This is suppose to be a fun and relaxing hobby Yesterday I thought later I did not explain it right. The kit will tell you if you have compression from your engine getting into the coolant system, the compression will blow the coolant out of the radiator. The exhaust gas is simply a by product from the compression leak. And a sure way to test for the leak. Your engine will overheat under this condition, mainly because the compression blew all the water out and it is low on coolant. This does not sound like what you describe above. I am back to thinking you do not have any flow. I am sorry for not reading the whole thread and need to go back and do so. For example, I do not know why you are running a electric fan. I just redone the cooling system on my neighbors 1954 shoe box, 5.0/AOD and it is running a electric fan ... they work fine. I am thinking a T-stat stuck closed, a water pump that is not working .... A radiator that is plugged. I would trouble shoot this, First thing is pull the bottom hose from Radiator, put water in the top ... is the water coming out the bottom as fast as you are putting it in the top? 1, start it cold with radiator cap off. Do you see water circulating ... as it reaches operating temp, does the top hose get warm as the T-stat opens? Is it circulating? 2, If you do not see water circulating, I would pull out the T-stat and run it without one, see how it reacts .... I need a T-stat in my engine to raise the temp up, does not overheat with it removed. 3, If still running hot, I would remove the water pump, and put a hose in the distribution tube and and check the flow coming out. Is it coming out as fast as it is going in? Also check the drain plug on the side of the block, if you open it does water flow out? If full of sand it would probably be plugged and not flow. I worked with a guy, the propeller shaft on his water pump broke. The water pump did not leak and gave no indication it was bad, but it did not circulate water ... Just saying I have seen bad water pumps.

That is awesome, looks and sounds great. I have a Mopar model 802 I purchased for my truck. I have no idea if it does work, bigger fish to fry at this time. I hope mine sounds as good as yours when I get ready to work on the installation ?

I looked at Roberts, they were even a few dollars cheaper then DCM. When you order from DCM, they offer 2 different mounting bolt spreads, 1.75" & 2" I have 1.75" I Roberts did not offer that choice, I assume they have one size and I would just be hoping it was the right size. I just feel more confident knowing I ordered the right mounting option. Still not received a tracking # for ups yet, will contact DCM later today and ask. They arrived today, Ordered Thursday, they shipped Friday, delivered Monday .... extremely fast service.

I bought this one from harbor freight, cheap but works well so far. I thought this video was good description to clean it and set it up. There is assembly lube in a new gun that will contaminate your product, if not properly cleaned before use.

Are you sure it is not exhaust blowing the coolant out of the radiator? There is a kit you can buy, or think autozone will loan, but it detects exhaust gasses in the coolant. Only way the gasses could be present is a blown head gasket or a crack somewhere. The test is a tube that replaces the radiator cap, there is a dye you put in the tube and it will change colours if exhaust gas is present .... pretty simple test, kit is about $50 last time I bought one ... and handy to have around. When I called autozone to ask if they had a kit, they offered to loan me one ...

Original voltage regulators were adjustable. I am guessing somewhere later, the replacement voltage regulators were built cheaply and can not be adjusted. The one on my truck does not have provisions (screws) to adjust it ... not sure what I can do with it yet.

I think my truck was parked because it was over heating. I found one T-stat housing stud broken. Which means they worked on it and quit. I fixed the stud and left out the original old school T-stat that was in it. It quickly warmed right up and went to 200+ degrees like yours. Through the advice of this forum, I removed the water pump and I rodded out the water distribution tube. It was plugged solid. I used a piece of flat 1/4"x1" steel. I drove it into the tube tapping it with a hammer, and had a hole drilled into the back end so Could connect a slide hammer and pull it back out. Back and forth just tapping it with the hammer to break up the build up inside of it. It was so plugged, I could not even run a stiff wire through it. Then I pulled the welch plugs, and used wire to reach in and pull out the casting sand that was left in it ... amazed how much was pulled out. Then used a garden hose in the distribution tube and flushed it all out good. Put it back together, Then filled it with vinegar, let it run and warm up through a few heat cycles and after a few days drained it and put in fresh vinegar and repeat. Let it warm up and soak. Still not on the road driving it, but can let it idle for a hour and it will slowly creep up to 190. fast idle and drops right down to 170. Pretty sure with a T-stat installed it will maintain a steady 180. The distribution tube, which most would suggest to replace, and the left over casting sand in the blocks, is a common mopar flathead 6 issue.

I do not know the correct answer, my thoughts are. The voltages sound good, if the battery was low and needed charged. To me, 7.65 seems a little high if the battery is fully charged ... leads me to think the voltage regulator is a little out of tune. Now I will wait for the correct answer

Oh Lawdy, may the gods bless you with never raining while driving

Looks like a good job for a pressure washer