Los_Control

Yesterday when I was a kid in high school, I had a 51 ford truck with a flathead v8. In winter time I had to toss a rag over the carb to get it to start. Yes the manual choke worked, the engine was rebuilt and ran great and started fine in warmer weather. I did need to remove the air cleaner in winter to put a rag over the carb. Looking back at it today, I think the carb was probably wore out, using the rag it did give it a richer start, to much air sucking in around the choke plate. Just a idea to try, you know if it does start easier with a rag over the top of the carb, it will give you a starting point for troubleshooting. Back then (yesterday) when I was 16, I was pretty quick at starting the truck and then run around to the front and pull the rag off the carb before it choked out and died. Little slower today.

I would not think to harsh of them, we had to have a few clunkers in our paths to allow us to appreciate the real gem the slant 6 is.

I dunno, real men use strong arm steering. Maybe can create a separate forum page for those that use power steering? OMG I better run fast and far now

WOW is correct, can't think of a better word to describe it.

I have to agree with that, life is to short to spend time fixing cheap tools that do not work right. The tool I posted is stamped made in the USA along with patent number. Lisle tools is located In Iowa. But it does look the same as the one you posted. Does a fine job on steel lines just have to wait and see how long it last.

Here is the one I bought, looks like yours but claims it works on copper as well. $65 Lisle 31310 Double Flaring Tool Set Makes Both Single and Double SAE Flares. This tool set includes everything to flare thin wall steel, aluminum or .040 wall soft copper tubing. The set includes 5 thread dies and adapters for forming double flares on the following tubing sizes: 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 1/2". However, this set is not for use on stainless steel tubing. The set is packaged in a durable, oil and grease resistant tray for storage. Full instructions are included.

Just curious if anyone has ran 14" tires on a pilothouse truck. I know it sounds wrong, if one gets the tire height right, they should work, wondering if they might look too small. I would think with drum brakes they would clear. The price is cheap enough , worth picking up for resale or trading stock, 14 x 10 for the rear, 14 x7 for the front ... I dunno Yay or Nay?

All I can say is I like it, I need to make a heat shield, mine is missing. I wonder what would be a good modern replacement for the asbestos?

Great minds think alike I think what happens is a mindset that if I switch to 12 volts, I must switch all electrical with it. Then it gets easy to be side tracked.

They do have to match, As PA said, you do not want then mesh and bind up. My point is, the 6 volt starter you have will work with the 12 volt system. Just use it then deal with it when it wears out. If you compare the headlight wires from a 6 volt car and a 12 volt car, the 6 volt wiring will be a heavier gauge. A 6 volt system requires heavy 1 ot or 00 battery cables, while a 12 volt has much smaller battery cables. The 6 volt starter is the same, it will be built heavier then the 12 volt starter. It will work with 12 volts. Is suggested that you not crank the 6 volt starter for extended periods of time under 12 volt, that is just common sense for any starter. People have run the same 6 volt starter for years on 12 volt. When it goes out, then take it to a starter shop and have it rebuilt, or buy a different starter, just make sure it is correct for your application.

Just never heard of anyone switching the ring gear on the flywheel because switching from 6 volt to 12 volt. Now if you do switch the starter, of course you will need to be sure it is physically the same as what you are replacing. But switching to 12 volt is no reason to replace the existing starter.

Only thing different I am aware of, the 6 volt has heavier wiring because 6 volt uses more amps. Many have switched to 12 volts and run the stock 6 volt starter on 12 volts for years. Until it fails Suggesting a physical difference like the ring gear is just wrong.

all ya need is a gas can with a hose connected to the carb, prove it runs. without the rods knocking on the oil pan. Otherwise the standard assumption of any buyer is it is a core engine for a rebuild. If they refuse to toss a battery in it and fire it up, it is just a core engine and may be a bad crank or something they wish to hide. Pretty sure there is a huge following of users on these old Cadillac, While we all have our likes and dislikes, some cars have better after market support then others. Some cars have better resale car then others .... I bet this Cadilac has better support and resale then most any mopar of the same year. Just saying, if the buyer is claiming a rebuilt engine/running engine, will not take much to prove it. I imagine it would take most of $5k to rebuild that engine.

My best use for wd40 is a cleaner. I love using it in my air tools. Add some wd40 and then run the tool and run the tool and blow out what you just added, do this a few times and it cleans out all the old gummed up oil in the tool over the years. Then add fresh clean air tool oil. The tool will have power just like it was brand new again. Same when people claim I sprayed wd40 on my old ford door hinges and works like new again, I swear by wd40! They just cleaned all the old grime off the hinges, now they are working like they should, now grease them. wd40 is a good cleaner in my opinion.

You can buy a 12 volt coil with built in resistor so you do not need it. I get my opinion from reading the H.A.M.B. there was a trouble shooting session going on about a strange miss. In the end it was the guy switched from 6 volt to 12 volt and a new 12 volt coil fixed him up. I can not say you will find the same issue, but it might be something to think about and just avoid. Naw, thats just a good excuse for the wife when she ask why all these new parts are showing up on the door step

Pondering the situation, I am pretty sure I would just swap to a 12 volt coil while at it. I imagine when you swap from 6 volt to 12 volt, you will also swap from + ground to - ground. I have read on the internet, so we know it must be true. The used 6 volt coil is use to being ran in one direction, when you swap the + ground to - and juice flows in the opposite direction, you might get some strange issues. Intermittent missing in a certain rpm range etc... Coils are cheap enough, buy a new one and eliminate possible future problems chasing down weird issues, save the old one for a spare to get you home or test something else. I suggest you save the old 6 volt coil, build another B series truck around it

Here is a poor picture of what mine looks like. I imagine they can be different sizes between different mc. I assume it is just a option for the lines to connect to so you can use the same mc on different vehicles. I have a a brass elbow that comes out of the bottom, and a 5/16" brake line connects to it. I bought that at the auto parts store and let them pick the size. It may be possible that the male end that treads into the mc is also 5/16"? Either way, bring it with you and get the plug from your local hardware store. As a old remodel carpenter, I can pick out 1/2" and 3/4" pipe real easy as it is used in houses, get under 1/2" and I am always guessing wrong

They are just standard pipe thread, I think it may be 1/8" you can look at it and compare to the plug at the hardware store. I think mine is just standard black iron pipe plug. I would suggest buying a brass plug. I rebuilt my master and just left the existing plug alone.

Is a very valid reason if you want to use ford tie wire for future repairs I go stand back in my corner now

Been having pc issues cant post a photo right now. I have my complete line laying on the garage floor and is no splice, it fit the frame perfect, saving it for a pattern when I make my new line. I measured from the tank to under the radiator, just about 6'. That seems like a standard length the auto parts stores would sell .... I am not going to say it is not original to have a splice, my reasoning against it is simply cost. I imagine the manufacturer of the lines would buy the steel line in 50' or 100' rolls, maybe larger. (possible that The big 3 chevy ford dodge hire independent shop to make lines?) A 5' line of 5/16" at my local auto parts store, is about $6 the coupling I needed for my right front brake line cost about $6, the coupling doubles the cost of manufacturer. I can see, understand, the manufacturer runs to the end of the roll, then just adds a coupling to finish the line. So some cars/trucks will end up with a splice, but not all of them. And thats just my opinion and worth what you paid for it.

I thought the same, but since it is pine, and very nice pine with no knots and nice and straight .... paint really might be the thing to make it last the longest.

I just pulled what I think is the original fuel line from my truck. It is one piece all the way. When I replace it, the local parts store only sell the steel lines in 5' section, and there will be a splice when I replace it. If you have a splice, maybe it has been replaced in the past? The original does end before the fuel pump and a short rubber line to finish it. I believe for vibration between engine and frame is the purpose.

Are these carter B&B carbs? just thinking the typical position for the carbs with no spring is wide open throttle. And the spring closes the throttle down to idle. That is the way a stock factory setup works. This means if the spring breaks, it goes to wide open throttle and you need to change your underwear. I assume your dual carb setup is the same.