dpollo

There is a flat brass spring which can be installed under the synchro ring which, when combined with a new synchronizer ring should solve your problem. Also, Hypoid oils are too slippery and while they are needed in the differential, they can cause the problem you are having in the trans. Later transmissions, in the 60s used ATF and had the same synchro setup. These also had an input shaft seal which your unit does not have. You could experiment with different oils but I think a new synchro ring will be the ultimate solution. They are easy to install and it is not necessary to completely tear down the trans. It may even be possible to replace the high gear ring by pulling the front bearing then pulling the input shaft, Also, if the snap ring on the input shaft has broken ( visible by removing the throw out collar) this will cause the problem you are having.

All of the above advice is sound. Spend some money and do it right, those parts are too important to risk a failure. It is possible to press the worm and tube apart , not a recommended procedure but better than welding up a spliced shaft which is illegal in most cases. This is a consideration when a useable worm has a longer or shorter tube (shaft). The worm is keyed to the shaft and is a very tight press fit. Note that what appear to be gaskets on the end plate are actually shims for adjusting the tapered rollers on the worm. When all is in good shape, you will be pleased with how the car steers.

The od from a 39 Chrysler is a great choice for 39 and earlier. The best choice is the R10 from 52 to 56 which is a bolt in swap for your original trans. There is also an od used in Chrysler and export Plymouth and dodge which is just fine. I think its engineering code was R 8.

There are specialized adhesives made for attaching moldings Most are clear in color. PRO FORM PF 119 Plastic and Emblem Adhesive is one 3M makes a similar product

You may need a new relay, try bridging the relay with a heavy jumper.... like another battery cable and see what happens. Wear gloves, the amperage is substantial and can make a lot of heat in a hurry. The next item to check would be the starter motor itself. I remember burning myself while using a pair of pliers to bridge the contacts . The pivot on the pliers was not up to carrying the current. Have not done that again.

D 25 Dodges had vacuum wipers, same as Plymouth.

The wheels which will fit your car will be Plymouth 48 to 56 and Desoto and Chrysler (wider) 48 to 54. Dodge in the USA have a different offset and did not need the alignment pin since the hubs had studs. Canadian Dodge were like Plymouth Your car should have 15 by 4 1/2 wheels but different years had slightly different offsets so it is a good idea to measure. Chrysler Desoto and Canadian Big Dodge used 15 by 5 1/2.

I think it is very likely the engine is a 230. Especially since the fluid drive unit fit. Measuring the stroke is easy if you remove the timing plug over #6 cylinder. Use a welding rod or stiff wire to follow the piston up and down and measure the results. 4 5/8 for a 230 4 3/8 for a 218. There are several rear seals and most are interchangeable . A leak often occurs between the seal halves where the pieces butt together. Removal of the bottom half and judicious addition of silicone will often stop the leak. As for the differential, have you cleaned out the vent? It is part of the bolt which holds the brake line junction to the axle tube.

Canadian built cars from 46 yo 51 used a spicer joint with slip yoke. The universal cross is the same as used on later (55) Chevrolets . You would need the transmission output flange, the u-j assembly and the driveshaft end.

If you get stuck trying to find a knob or the "nut" that holds the control in place send me a PM.

You may find, over time that the wine cork will sink. The original floats seemed to be coated in some sort of sealer which was not penetrated by gasoline. Good thinking, but now what can you use the empty bottle for ?

On the cover of the vacuum motor, there is a little felt filter to keep dust from entering the motor. If you remove the cover and clean the filter it will often improve performance. Also try spraying WD40 on the air inlet and the reversing toggle valve inside while the engine is running and the wipers are "on". The control knob on the 50 is the same as the radio knobs.

Congratulations. I see you still need a mirror. I have something that may work well. Call me. A ratio of about 3.7 would work well especially if you build up a 251.

It would be worth considering a cable throttle such as those used by hot rodders. I worked on a 38 Dodge brought to Canada from New Zealand. RHD and things are pretty tight around the steering , exhaust brakes and throttle.

Always more than one way to skin a cat.

I like the Overdrive controls as they were intended to be but have often wanted a fingertip control for the occasional kick down such as found in the Chrysler with M6. The problem is that in order to achieve k-d , the engine must have the ignition briefly interrupted to break torque. It is possible to achieve this simply by turning the ignition switch to off then back on , (quickly). A normally ON pushbutton or a relay controlled by a pushbutton mounted somewhere convenient.... like the gearshift lever... which would kill the ignition (and the power to the OD relay ) would do all this without any major or permanent wiring tear ups. Me, I have just continued my practice of turning the ignition off and on. I have not blown out any mufflers yet. Yet.

A P23 is a pretty nice car. Even though the Cambridge is the plain Jane, yours looks pretty well dressed. If the mechanical components are good and the radiator and gas tank are clean It would be an adventure of a lifetime to drive it.

Some of the new head gaskets (blue on one side) are no retorque but all the others should be retightened as noted above.

I did not realize your car had the M6 transmission. That "box" contains the circuit breaker for the transmission circuit and a resistor which is part of the Kick down ignition interrupter. The emergency brake warning light is not part of the map light.

The emergency brake warning light flashes when the brake is ON. It is wired to the turn signal flasher. The box on the firewall is the horn relay, the ignition lead puts power there on its way to the ign, coil. We were all novices once and I would suggest you get both the glove box manual and the shop manual for your car. They are both very informative, each in its own way.

It will be attached to the ARMATURE terminal of the generator or on the same terminal at the regulator and as Earl said it is for suppression of radio noise caused by the generator. If radio noise is not a problem you do not need this condenser.

You have the instructions as to how to change the lock cylinder. It is easy. The light comes on with the park lights.

I recently replaced a switch on a 49 Chrysler and all the others above have given you good information. I do not recall having any difficulty. Replacement switches and those used after 1953 did not have the armored cable but otherwise install just the same. Is it possible somebody removed the screw and instead of replacing it glued the switch into its sleeve.?

Often times, people will appear in several family photos from different sources. It is then possible to cross reference and identify them. I have a wedding photo and I did not recognize anyone at first. It had a studio date of 1905. The groom looked like someone I had seen elsewhere and I knew Uncle Jim and Aunt Maggie had been married that year, sure enough , but who were the other two people? I went on line to my province's Vital Stats and pulled a copy of the wedding certificate. The attendants were the bride's brother and my own grandmother ! This was the earliest photo I had ever seen of her. All this research took less than an hour and I had identified everyone in the photo. Very rewarding . I had almost discarded the photo and I am now glad I hadn't. Of course photos with old Plymouths are more valuable but some people like weddings.

I have heard the above referred to as Oklahoma Breathers a term from Dust Bowl times when rings were worn pretty badly but there was no money for repairs.