dpollo

Google Removing Plymouth Brake Drums and you should come up with a pictorial How -to using a puller as shown above that I prepared some years ago. * I checked and it is the top one posted by The Plymouth Bulletin. There are others too.

A stuck intake valve will do more to foul up an engine's ability to run than most other ailments. Put a slender punch or drift through the hole and GENTLY encourage the valve to close. Take care that it is not actually in the open position when you tap on it. Turn the engine and try again if it is. Just don't force anything. It may not hurt to do a compression test. If it is not pumping up 80 pounds or more on most cylinders it will be hard to start. Good compression would be 100 pounds plus.

I put eleven inchers on my 50 years ago and the brake fade problem went away. You will need the backing plates for all 4 corners and the spindles from the front. It is also necessary to reset the toe in after changing the front spindles as the steering arms are 1/2 inch lower than before. If you are considering US Dodge drums then you will notice the offset is different. Desoto and Canadian big Dodge have the same offset as Plymouth Plymouth wheels will fit both. however, Plymouth wheels will not fit the 12 inch drums found on Chrysler. At the time I did this, (1968 ) this made a difference in braking and I got 50 000 miles out of the linings. Cylinders and hoses are the same.

The toe in will change somewhat as will the camber. Caster is not adjustable other than by shims placed at the inner control arm pivot. Straight ahead and Straight up and down are the ideal specs, but a slight toe in is OK. If you lower it too much, you will get "bump" steer.

2.76 would keep you in second gear all the time. I would not go any taller than 3.54 . I have driven a lot of these cars a lot of miles and I believe 3.7 will do the job. The Business series Plymouth for '35 had this ratio, if you can find one. I used a later housing to get more options.

I cannot think of a less suitable transmission for a 35 than the M6. My 35 has the stock trans but I have changed the rear end for one with a 3.7 to 1 ratio from a postwar Desoto. Works very well.

The toggle is what makes the unit reverse and it is very delicate. Usually a bit of WD 40 will limber the internal paddles. It it does not travel far enough in one direction, the toggle will not trip. Removal of the radio panel reveals the WW location. the arms are on the firewall side of the motor and there are two studs on the body to engage the mounting flanges of the motor. New grommets for the arms can be easily made from radio shop type grommets.

The rubber washer is the first item into the hole before the valve and spring so you are correct. On the picture Don posted, the washer or seal, appears to be part of the valve.

as I recall, the o ring grooves are in the block and a standard o ring will fit in the groove. The oil filter unit you have is typical of 49 to 54. 46 to 48 had threaded holes with pipes leading to the canister.

The washer you describe is indeed used on the hose connection to the upper wheel cylinder. They are generally found these days on cars which have not had hoses or cylinders changed at any time. If the replacement washer is in any way tapered, then it is installed with the taper toward the cylinder so that tightening the hose will pull the outer flange of the washer toward the backing plate. I believe that the outer flange will distort somewhat as it contacts the backing plate but that this will not prevent tightening of the hose.

If you have gas, spark and compression and it is timed right, it has to run. Chances are, compression is low after sitting so long. Especially if you have had the plugs out and little flakes of carbon have settled on the valve seats . To save your battery, give the car a push, put it in second and let in the clutch. If all is right it will start and the rough running will correct itself in short order.

Loss of fluid pressure will result in a downshift 2 to 1 and 4 to 3. However you are getting enough pressure to make the initial upshift 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 so something in the transmission is causing the pressure to drop. The removal of all electric control suggests the problem is internal, like a bad pump. Before you tear into it try a heavier oil like 30 and see if it causes the problem to go away. It is not a cure, but would be an indicator of a worn pump or leaky seals.

Keep in mind your transmission is the Post and selector type so the lever drops back after selecting first or reverse. Makes for very easy shifting and there is no danger of getting hung up on the 1-2 shifts which was a problem with many cars. There is no particular reason to change to 12 volts but all your dash instruments will work. A voltage limiter is needed for the gas gauge.

Somebody has lost the ferrule which goes between the gas line and the inner tank line. (see Plymouthy's comment) It is a little barrel shaped piece which mates up with the inverted flare on each of the other lines. Without it you are sunk. A brass fitting and someone who is good with a lathe will get you rolling. Possibly a ferrule from a brass compression fitting might work In 49 and up, a fitting with a longer snout on it and half a flare on the pipe took the place of the ferrule. Master cylinder connections used a similar flare nut in the sixties. So also did the splice in the fuel line on 49 and up.

Have studs installed as PA suggests. It is a permanent and bulletproof fix.

I agree. The ignition coil would be the victim but it may also have survived.

You can buy hose by the foot and install the ends that are needed. no clamps necessary and it makes a goos looking job. A good auto supply or a shop that specializes in hose and hydraulics will have everything you need.

You can monitor the oil level by watching the pressure gauge when going around corners. The pressure will drop momentarily when the pickup pulls in air. This usually occurs at 2 quarts down. No real harm done unless you are racing.

There is a very good chance the breaker arm bushing in the distributor is binding when hot. A light reaming with fine sandpaper will cure the problem. This was a common problem on the 49s but I did have it happen on a 37.

I think there is a very good chance the ignition coil is the culprit here, not fuel. In the 50s,, my first car, a 35 Plymouth had an ignition coil which was faulty. It would run fine when cold but refused to start when hot. A rag dipped in creek water got me going. I was just a kid driving on farm roads but it was a good lesson. Later, a 40 Plymouth gave the same troubles as its original coil grew weaker. Improved insulation materials have made this problem a thing of the past. I choose reliability over authenticity when it comes to ignition coils.

A quart in 500 miles may be excessive but it will take some rings several thousand miles to truly seat and in the meanwhile you are assured of good upper cylinder lubrication, Another thing that I learned from a long time Ford Mechanic who now has a 48 Dodge is that some engines burn the top quart out of the crankcase then the consumption is less.,,, as if the crankcase was overfull. See if it does not "hang in there" at the add-oil mark.

On the tank connection, or in it, is a small barrel shaped ferrule which seals the space between the fuel line and the dip tube inside the tank. This item is really easy to lose and its absence will allow air to leak from inside the tank and it the tank is over half full fuel will escape around the line. As for later tanks fitting a 40, I see no reason why they should not. The chassis frame is different from 42 onward but the bodies, at least in this area are the same.

I agree with the comments above and both operations can be done with the box in the car. More play at extreme left and right is normal but it should be equal.

I would say you have done well. The clips you refer to are called rat-tailed clips around here because of the little spring which holds them in place. They come in a variety of sizes and any good auto supply should have them, especially one which specializes in body and paint .

I have not had much luck posting photos to this forum but two features will help identify a head. The extra water passage at the front 51 and up except Spitfire engine The DPCD in a circle from 52 up and also,, 56 up had a smaller threaded hole for the temperature sender.