dpollo

You could do what you are planning but by 90 000 miles, there will be a fair amount of taper in the cylinders and the timing chain will also need replacement. A valve job alone may result in more oil consumption due to higher vacuum in the cylinders on decelleration. Lots of these cars received in-car overhauls back in the day and the results were often satisfactory but relatively short lived due to wear which was not addressed. Assess how much you are going to use the car in the next ten years and consider that parts are relatively easy to get now but the supply will ultimately dry up.

Be comforted and proud. Not everybody can drive an old car but very few people can fix a new one. dp

If that car is a Dodge then it is a D25 . Canadian paint colours do not always match those used in the USA. The paint code on a Canadian car may be found on an aluminum tag on the firewall but it is no longer possible to get the pigments to get an exact match. What you can do is take the car to a paint supplier and have them photograph the colour and their computer will come up with a formula. Since the colour of your car is pretty simple you might buy some black and white and mix about 1/3 black with 2/3 white then add a very small amount of yellow or orange to get the earth tone of your car. If you want a steely gray then add blue. I have matched this particular colour exactly and painted half a fender so it can be done.

using the drum as a slide hammer usually works. Since the inner ends of the axles touch a spacer in the middle, you could try striking the end of one of the axles to get the opposite one started. There is enough movement to make this possible. Be sure to have the nut on the axle end to protect the threads. A bit of heat on the axle tube might help. Failing this, you will have to make up some sort of strong back puller

The reason the rear doors are made as they are is so the side glass can be lowered all the way. If you tried to have a one piece door pane, it would not go down without hitting the curve in the door. Your car looks great so far. dp

Your emergency brake cable is correct. The wiper : You tip the arm at an angle to the blade and push it into the socket. To release, you must depress the spring in the blade tip the blade again and withdraw the arm.

Young Ed takes the prize. It is a mounting for a standard bell housing to eliminate the fluid drive. There is another way to replace Fluid drive and it consists of an extra long input shaft, throw out collar and support. The same parts can be found in some 54 V 8s which needed an extra long bell housing to clear the body but were not equipped with Fluid drive.

I can also supply the float if you do not get one closer to home. contact via PM

Congratulations. These are my favorite cars with a beautiful dashboard. I have never been without a 50 Plymouth since 1965. Your car has one of the few visors that was actually made to fit this body rather than the universal type. There is no reason why the original rims will not hold air with tubeless tires. Best to use the brass valve stems since for some demented reason the valve holes in the wheels are oval. The brass stems also keep the wheel covers from creeping. The paint on your left front fender looks like somebody spilled battery acid on it but I see no rust-out and the bumpers and stainless trim are all in good shape.

There is a flexible jumper wire in the distributor which can break or it can ground out due to worn insulation. That is the first place to look when ignition cuts out. Replacement cannot be with ordinary wire , it must be super flexible.

there should be nothing to stop the column jacket from pulling free. There is a cone shaped piece that slides down at the top. It goes over the splined shaft . I think its only purpose is to locate the spring that goes under the turn signal canceling hook. It pushes against the fabric bearing art the top of the column and if it is still there, could be hanging things up. The steering box itself has nothing that would impede removal once the clamp has been loosened.

I would still check the emergency brake. Chances are it is not releasing completely or the lining has folded back on itself and got very hot. Nothing else would explain the smell.

Have a look at both the mechanical and vacuum advance systems in the distributor.

Shel has it right, the 49 to 52 brake light switch is mounted just ahead of the left rear axle. It has a 1/8 pipe thread and two bullet type connections. I have used Standard Auto part SLS 24 but you may want to check the electrical connections on SLS 23 and 25, You will not spill any brake fluid unless someone steps on the pedal so it is not necessary to bleed the brakes after installation.

usually a pry bar will reveal any wear especially if the weight of the car is supported under the lower control arm.There should be no movement at all. These items were often serviced by replacing the complete assembly, control arm and all. They are best assembled in a jig and you will often find both the cross shaft and the end caps (bushings) will need to be replaced. It is easy to remove the entire assembly for bench servicing by first, supporting the weight of the car under the lower control arm and under the frame then removing the upper pivot that threads through the camber adjustment, then the shock absorber and the four bolts that hold the control arm pivot to the frame.

There should be no issues at all and if you are lucky, both vehicles will have the spicer U-joint (Canada)The cross and rollers are the same as Chevrolet 55 and up to the chervil era. Cheap and easy to install. The truck's outer axle seal National 5797 is the same on cars 37 to 42 .

all you have to do is change the lid .

The only part of your question I can answer is that the sedan frame is the same except for the center body mount will be farther back on a coupe's frame because of the location of the B pillar (door length) I owned and drove a 37 Plymouth sedan for 30 years and it drove so well with its original front end that I would never have changed it.

1950 was the last year for pin striping on Canadian cars. Some US models were striped but mostly with a single strip around the hub capand this practice may have continued through 56 but I am not entirely certain. Striping on green cars (pre 51) I have owned was red.

You can always move the OD along to someone else. The price seems right even if all you get is the engine and trans.

The 53 engine is the same in virtually every respect. It will be a 217 ( 3 1/4 x 4 3/8 ) just like the 52. The 53 also had a six blade fan with a larger pulley which runs more quietly than the 4 blade because it turns slower. Overdrive is a NICE option.

Pistons on a 217/230 are flush with the deck at tdc.. You may get by with the chipped sleeve but what if it is fractured beyond what you can see ? You would then be in for a catastrophic failure. Go with Don's advice and have that bore re sleeved

That hole looks like the block has been bored through to the water jacket. It may have run that way for awhile until the very thin layer of metal rusted through. It's a boat anchor just as PA says.

Slight wear in the king pin bushing will not result in a wheel leaning inward noticeably. The camber adjustment is above the king pin where the spindle support meets the upper control arm. It is locked with a bolt. Check this out and check the possibility of a bent spindle.