dpollo

On some later models, these links are flexible cables rather like a speedometer cable but much heavier. On my 51, I discarded the screw jack lifts in favour of hydraulic cylinders and a "modern" pump which, although it is a 12 volt unit works just fine on six volts . Synchronization of the lifts is no longer a problem. Good luck.

I highly recommend Rhode Island 's products. If you value your time and want a superior job, this is the way to go. It is also possible to rewire as indicated above but it takes a lot of time. I cannot recommend the wiring kits where all the materials come semi pre wired. They have their place in hot rods and modified cars but are generally for 12 volt systems.

It sounds like you have all the parts. From memory : The spring goes under the brass bracket and the wire is fastened to this by a little button. The brass bracket is isolated from ground because the screws are set in the steering wheel material. The ring is then set over the brass and is held in place by another three cornered casting.... call it a spider. When this is screwed down, the ring holds the spring away from the three cornered bracket. Pushing the ring causes the spring or the ring itself to come in contact with the bracket, completing a ground. Sometimes it is necessary to apply electrician's tape to the bracket to prevent inadvertent contact. The cap then snaps on to cover the whole nightmare. The shop manual provides an exploded drawing of these parts.

The generators are easy to service and if the car has power steering, the pump is on the generator. The best regulators are the original Autolites. Always use the regulators with 2 terminals on one side and the third on the other on cars built after '49. Use a good Group 2 battery and the electrics in your car will work just fine. Congratulations.

Donald S. has it right. The M-6 if it can be called an overdrive can also be called an under drive. To avoid any confusion, it cannot be compared with a Borg warner planetary OD like the R10. As I recall, there are three connections on the carb and two have bullet type ends so it is possible to reverse them. The coil on top of the carb is energized at idle when the car is in gear to enrich the mixture so there is less chance of stalling or stumbling. The electrical controls to the M6 only serve to kick the unit down. It will perform just fine without the electrics but the downshifts have to wait until the vehicle comes to a halt.

It is very likely the wires on the carburetor have been reversed. The electrical control is for kick down and it dumps the hydraulic pressure . so if the circuit is energized all the time the trans cannot upshift since pressure is not built up.

High beam indicator light, it doubles as the nut which holds the top of the instrument cluster in place.

All the cars* except Plymouth had Fluid Drive which was a fluid coupling directly fastened to the crankshaft with a conventional dry clutch following that. Then there was the option of a three speed standard transmission or the semi automatic (M-6) which included FD. Either way gave a very smooth transmission of power to the rear wheels. * there is a Fluid drive delete which is not that well known. It consists of a special input shaft, throw out bearing collar and sleeve and a standard flywheel and dry clutch. This can be fitted without changing the bell housing or linkages. It is also possible to have Overdrive on the three speed transmission with or without Fluid Drive.

sincerest best wishes, Don

I bought a 54 Ply for $15 because it would only start if pushed. Testing showed current at the coil and the distributor as required. Once going, it ran really well. Turns out someone had replaced the ignition switch and hooked the ignition lead to the accessory terminal so when the starter was engaged, the ignition was shut off with the accessories.

You can use a standard fitting, the pinhole, in theory, keeps the gauge needle steadier by not allowing the line to fill up with oil so there is a cushion of air between the engine and the gauge. In practical terms it won't make much difference.

Look for a light that is not working.... like the license plate light or a tail light. That will be a good indicator of where the short is.

Since, as you say, the gears are worn out, why not take the main box apart and compare the mainshaft with the earlier transmission. a short answer to your question would be "probably not " but there is one way to find out for sure. As for Fluid Drive transmissions, they can have the R10 overdrive attached.

That is an overdrive from a 57 to 59 Plymouth (maybe R10 J) It will not fit earlier Plymouths. As to its value, I have tried for several years to sell one and there is literally no market. On the plus side, the internal OD components can be used in other R10s such as the one which will fit 40 to 56 Plymouths

I knew a mechanic ( army corporal) who worked on a tank with the multibank engine. It was an amazing and apparently successful machine. There are still at least two multibanks in running order and several display engines. Chrysler Corp's war production was pretty impressive including over 20 000 tanks powered by a variety of engines George Damman's book 70 Years of Chrysler provides some specifics.

He is a Natural behind that big steering wheel. dp

If this problem was more noticeable in freezing weather, I'd say one of the tires has water in it. This can happen in a carelessly installed tubeless tire but it would not be likely in a tube type.

There are not likely to be any problems, people have been installing exchange units for years. Even if there was a slight vibration. the pressure plate could be unbolted and given a partial turn without disassembling the whole works.

If this engine is in your Plymouth Plaza then the bell housing used in a six cylinder 57 to 59 may also fit the V 8. You can tell by the bolt circle on the bell housing . Any way you look at it, this installation is going to be a challenge unless you have access to a standard shift car for all the necessary parts.

The only reason I can think of for these screws is to prevent the removal of the handle from outside the car..... but that does not allow entry if the door is locked. Some trunk locks, like the 37 Plymouth were the same but there the lock was in the handle so removal would allow access. Both my 40s were/are equipped with these screws, nickel plated.

Aluminum (silver) was the most often found color. I always felt that it looked cheap so I took to painting my blocks with Pewter Gray Metallic or similar automotive colors. Looks good, cleans easily and does not burn off any faster than engine enamels.

It should say on the serial # tag maybe B 2 D from 1950. Certainly 48 to 50 .

You will find an adjustment hidden under the steering column where the levers are. There are 2 7/16 nuts . one is a jam nut, loosen it then tighten the other slightly to take the slack out of the selector lever. Re tighten the jam nut. This lever selects low and reverse when you pull back on the gearshift. Check to see that the column clamp at the steering box is tight since any movement of the steering column jacket will affect gear shifting.

The exploded view in a parts manual would be a good place to start.

That panel has been correctly identified above from left to right the knobs were fan, temp, defrost and air. It could also be used for accessories as you have suggested. I probably have more than one. try me through a PM.