dpollo

Good advice from all those who have answered so far. I can recommend Vintage Power Wagons They know what we are asking and what they are talking about. They will take the time to determine what you are asking for is correct. They are also a source for water distribution tubes, something NAPA would not have had in their catalog for decades.

If the engine has the prefix PE, it is likely correct. it will also have the cylinder castings visible on either side of the distributor. this engine was made for only 2 years and is narrower than all the Plymouths that follow it so the head gasket is narrower too. ( so if it is not absolutely necessary, do not be too quick to lift the head until you get the right gasket) The distributor may be a Remy more akin to GM than the Autolites that followed. Just so you know when you go to get points. As for the oil filter, this is a bypass unit and the engine can be safely run without it. It is also possible to get a canister with a replaceable element. (try a tractor store if you are in a farm area. Carter Ball and Ball is likely the correct carb and they are simple to overhaul. The accelerator pump jet high on the main body often needs a wire run through it.

Don is absolutely correct and if you can get a brass one for behind the flywheel, so much the better.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with 6 volt positive ground systems. All Fords, Chrysler Products and many other cars except General Motors were wired this way. There are several reasons why, including a little known phenomenon called Pelletier's Principal. In practical terms it makes little difference as long as all components are compatible including the ignition coil. The best advice I can give you is to restore your electrical system to factory specs. Re polarizing a generator involves a two second procedure with a jumper wire across the cut out relay. Nothing else is very complicated. If you want to "update" to 12 Volts, negative ground then go for it, but it is not a piecemeal process. It is necessary to reverse the ammeter connections so it will read correctly and to install a voltage limiter in the gas gauge circuit.

Congratulations, My favourite car has always been the 50 Plymouth (or like Neil, a D36 Dodge) My current 50 P20 came out of California so it has the 23 inch engine and Overdrive has been installed, I have owned it for almost 25 years. I have never been without one for over 50 years now.I drove my first one 120 000 miles over what it had when I got it. Never tired of driving it. note to Neil, just what do you need to know about the D36 ?

At one time there was a product called LUXOR powder which could be mixed with a clear enamel or lacquer base to make a gorgeous gold finish. That is not much help to you but maybe a sign writer or pin striper could help you. Artists know how to apply gold -leaf as well.

Raybestos MK 143

The block like Don Coatney pictured above was used from 49 to 54 and had a full flow filter, also pictured, which had a replaceable element. Chrysler engines from 46 to 48 also had full flow filters but the fittings to the block were threaded and piped. (3/8 I think) Other engines used Bypass type filters and some of these were the sealed can type but many had replaceable elements. These engines can be run without a filter at all. Despite the desirability of a full flow filter, frequent oil changes will ensure long life and is probably cheaper than converting an engine which is usually done by drilling the block above the oil pump and piping the oil through a filter before delivering it to the oil gallery via another hole drilled in a boss just behind the generator. (25 inch engines... you can just see that boss behind the alternator in the picture but it would not be used in this block since it is already full flow.) Full flow conversions can be done and I am sure there are people who can direct you.

Yes, the newer pump will fit the earlier engines, in fact it was a recommended upgrade in the Chrysler manuals with a footnote that higher oil pressure would likely be noticed .

check the wheel offset again. If you have a Dodge (USA) wheel on a Plymouth this offset would be the result.

as others have noted, TIGHT ! but that is when all parts are new. Recently I have discovered a loose rear axle nut after 15000 miles of running and mentioned this to another long-time mechanic who was replacing the gearset in his 48 Dodge. He tightened both axle nuts to about 150 ft lbs. , drove the car 300 miles and rechecked them. Both were loose. So my advice to myself and all who will listen, make them tight initially and retighten them after a few hundred miles.

Great reading, suspension of disbelief : essential more relevant to this site, Bogart's 38 (sometimes 37 ) Plymouth coupe and freeze framing a 35 PJ which was Harry Smith's ..? .. not sure of his name now but an incidental player's car in The Big Sleep, the registration slip actually described the car correctly. Freeze framing was not possible for audiences back in the day but attention to detail seemed to be important. Still in all, the Saint was entertainment . This in no way helps Dasaint with his electrical woes but this forum is great entertainment too.

Now if you are truly a Saint fan, you will have read the books by Leslie Charteris. Simon Templar drove a Hirondel and later a Desurio, both fictional but truly fantastic sports cars. These books are really great reading.

Welcome. Electrical woes can be troublesome but are not an inherent fault of Positive Ground 6 volt systems or 53 Plymouths. I think PA's advice above sums it up. I have found slow drainage of power in Electric clocks and automatic trunk and underhood lights and once in a stoplight switch which left the stoplights on, but too dim to see in daylight. A stuck regulator contact results in about a 25 amp draw, visible on the ammeter as soon as the engine is shut off.

I have often thought about the possibilities but never tried it because I could never really afford to build a grenade. and you are correct 1/4 longer stroke really is only 1/8 at each end so maybe the pistons I have which are .050 short could have the tops machined off enough to provide clearance. I have a block which they will fit. maybe some winter's day I will do a trial. Let's see, that would be a 251 crank with 228 * rods, pistons .o5o short then should pop up .o75 of an inch. Balance may be another issue ......... no, I think I will stick with what I know will work. I have always favored reliability. * Canadian engine

The only explanation I can think of is that while an engine is pinging, it cannot possibly be putting out full power. Full power has to be just at the point before detonation occurs. Great subject to ponder on a sleepless night.

It is stamped, along with the date of manufacture on a flat "boss" facing down in about the 4 o'clock position on the passenger side of the car. It was often highlighted with yellow. The boss surface is not machined so it may take a bit of scrubbing with a wire brush to reveal the stamping. I was told that the axle ends were painted yellow, red or other colours to indicate the ratio but have never confirmed this. On a 52 diff which I went out to check before writing this, the "boss" was just below the oil fill plug. This would be different on a 48 since the fill plug is on the rear of the housing .

They are the same pistons and a quarter of an inch difference in stroke would push the top ring almost out of the bore and the piston top , unless modified would strike the head. I have considered similar scenarios with the 25 inch blocks where strokes were 3 3/4, 4 1/16 , 4 1/4 , 4 1/2 and 4 3/4 and in each case if using any of the pistons available for these engines , rod swapping is not possible ( unless you wanted to reduce piston travel by having it not come to the top of the bore. With a special piston, it might be possible but I really cannot see any real gain. Only one piston, for the 3 7/16 engines ( P34 as I recall) had a different pin to deck height measurement. It came .050 inch short of the engine deck height thus reducing compression. It had 3 rings and a significant distance between the top ring and the piston crown so it might be possible to create a "dome top " with these and using rods from a shorter stroke engine you could create a "pop up" but one would have to wonder Why ?

On the MOPAR Comfortmaster series heaters, there is a diverter which forces air up to the defrosters. There is provision for adding the ductwork below the slots in the windshield garnish moldings. These consist of two sheet metal pieces which fasten to the body and change the long narrow slot to a round sleeve onto which a flexible hose is fastened. The hose then goes to the heater/diverter attachment. I have found a number of these in pickup trucks since they used this setup too, From 49 onwards, the passenger car had a plenum for the defrosters built into the body.

Welcome. I recall having a 58 Plymouth Matchbox or similar toy back in 1958. I have a matchbox size toy which looks like a 35 Plymouth. Dinky Toys also had 57-8 Plymouth taxis and sedans.

I had a case where a piece broke out of the snap ring for the rear bearing and went through the OD governor drive gear snapping off the shaft which stayed stuck in the transmission. Took a complete teardown to remove it.

Ball and Trunnion U Joints can often cause mysterious noises. Try this : take down the rear of the driveshaft, remove the Joint's tin cover and insert a washer over the centering pin Reassemble. This will cause the shaft to operate in a slightly different place and may cure the rattle or change it a little. On a 55 Plymouth I had the rattle was most noticeable in reverse.

I had a very strange but similar pressure problem with a worn out sludger of an engine. The oil screen in the float had become plugged. Suction then pulls the screen away from the cover so the hole in the middle will allow oil to pass through. Anyone who has had the cover off the float will have seen this bypass hole but it is not visible otherwise. This made for some wild variations in oil pressure.

The hole is for the upper shift rail, low and reverse. The lower shift rail does have a soft plug in it. You will notice that the gasket has a slot in it right below the input flange. Strange but true. Below this , but open to view, is the hole for the countershaft. If you get any leaks here, the same size soft plug will effectively seal this spot. The countershaft, when removed is to be pushed out through the rear of the case since the oil seal at this point is an interference fit between the shaft and the case. If it has been forced out the other way (through the front) a leak will often be the result.

If you like sanding, then Google or Youtube search Leroy Anderson's Sandpaper Ballet. Very soothing.