dpollo

The 46 to 48 Desoto often used a 3.73 ratio as did the Chrysler with M6 semiautomatic and the short wheelbase Plymouth and Dodge. All will interchange until 53 when the axle spline changed. Most common ratio to find in a Plymouth with 15 inch wheels was 3.9 to 1. The 47 Dodge you mention started life with 16 inch wheels would likely have a 4.1 to 1 ratio a direct bolt in for the half ton truck. These diffs caused very little trouble so are not as notorious as some from that era. The input shaft flanges are easily changed.

I still think your only problem is a muffler full of antifreeze. Take the muffler off as PA suggests, you can then leave the header pipe in placeand give it a good run. If you really have head gasket leaks, the coolant level will drop and you will get bubbles in the radiator. One place you might get engine vacuum pulling in coolant is around the three head bolts that actually go through to the three intake ports . Unlikely but possible. Remove these bolts, apply thread sealer and replace and retorque. ( these bolts are closest to the intake manifold runners, center, front and rear)

Passenger car crown and pinions will interchange as will the whole assembly 37 up to 52 There would be no issues sending these parts cross border.

There is another factor which could be at the root of the problem. The ground for the starter relay (on top of starter) goes to the armature side of the generator which can only supply a ground when the generator is at rest. This prevents engagement of the starter while the engine is running. If the generator brushes are worn, it will not provide a ground (through the armature) and the starter will be unreliable. This problem generally occurred at about 70 000 miles when the generator brushes were up for replacement. You will notice two wires on the ARM terminal of the regulator. One of these goes to the generator, and the other goes to the starter relay.

Don is right, tight is fine , it will not be that way for long and that's ok. Some pulleys/ dampers do not have provision for the felt ring. It is in the kit for those that do. The circular gasket goes into the cover before the seal is pressed in but it is not absolutely necessary.

The seal is in the cowl.

There is a very good chance that both oil and antifreeze have been spilled into the exhaust system while you were cleaning things up or perhaps someone oiled things up before it sat idle for so long. It might take several miles of driving for the system to burn off all the oil or antifreeze. Check the radiator level. If it stays clean and full, you are ok. dp

I can see no benefit to a frame swap . The rear of the frame on the pickup may not kick up enough to fit under a passenger car's body. The front suspension is fine the way it is.

The 40 gauge cluster has the beam indicator threaded into it like a tiny funnel. It does not help hold the instrument cluster in place. I think Skrambler is correct that a 41 will work. I know 42 will.

As Don said, it is for the instrument lights and incidentally the CHOKE knob should be where your Throttle knob is.

Many jurisdictions used the engine number as the primary identification. If this is the case, the number will, in your case, begin with D29. If the car has had the engine replaced, the original engine number can be found on the frame above and behind the left rear axle facing out. If the serial number is the primary identification, it will be on the left front A pillar on a metal tag which may be either riveted or in many cases screwed on. The serial number will begin with a 1 a 2 or a 9 depending on where the car was built.

Have you changed the Ignition coil itself ? It almost has to be a heat related problem.

51 to 59, but only if the head has the extra passage and not the block. You can also seal off the block passage by using the back cover from an earlier than 51 water pump.

The hole can be tapped 9/16 national fine or, use the later gasket which will seal the hole against the block.

In 1951 my dad bought a 35 Plymouth 2 door sedan. His friend was an auto painter and they repainted the Plymouth the colour of your car. Lots of clear was added to the final coats and the colour just glowed. That colour was called Andante Green (if it was on a Desoto and Gypsy Green Metallic on a Dodge.) Very sharp when new.

send me a PM I may be able to help

Just unscrew the entire bleeder and put in the newer type. The little bolt is just a plug to keep dirt out. The bleeder still has a tapered end.

For your first-ever Plymouth you could not have done better than choose a P15. I spent some time in Pawnee Illinois in 1991. Visited a wrecking yard in Springfield and purchased an Overdrive for a Plymouth and another for a 39 Chrysler. Feuher Brothers long gone now. Went to the Illinois State Fair. I recollect it was very hot and sometimes humid. I visited an Amish Theme park Rockome Gardens Enjoyed my stay very much especially the Mark Twain Cave near Hannibal Mo. Cool, 55 degrees. Lots of flat ground there so you will likely want to install Overdrive as well. Good luck. dp

will you take Canadian money ?

Use a rear sump pan from a 318 truck and watch for brake pedal arm clearance as well as steering box clearance.

That is possible, Mick but on a 251 or a 265, the crankshaft must be in a position where the distributor shaft does not hit the counterweight on the way out. Put the distributor back in, give the engine half a turn and try again.

as noted, several times, you do not need to remove the throttle linkage or the floor pan to remove the master cylinder. The pedal arm will slide off the pivot and can stay in the car. the cylinder then comes out from underneath.

In the 49 -52, it is only the brake pedal which pivots on the MC. from what I read earlier, yours should fall right out of there. You do not need to remove the floor toe board panel and the information about 46 to 48 gas pedals, while correct is not applicable to 49.

Try this : HUBCAP ANNIE hubcaps@crpud.net Dan and Cheryl Radonski 71880 Apiary Rd Rainier Oregon 97048-3411 1-800 627 7880 0r 503 556 1920 their card is several years old but I know someone who got what they needed for their 50 Plymouth

Treat your car to an engine tune up by the book. Take a compression test, install new plugs, points and condenser, carb overhaul and new in-line gas filter. Clean and re oil the air filter. Retorque head bolts and set the valve tappets if they are noisy.. These cars are very nice runners but require routine maintenance just like any other car of their era.