rallyace

Watkins Glen for Vintage Weekend in September. Looking into renting an RV and towing the Plymouth. I am done with camping in a tent and sleeping on the ground.

I was trying to avoid unbolting the driveshaft if possible. The trip is only 75 miles one way.

I have a 51 P23 with an overdrive transmission. Has anyone flat towed or dolly towed one with the drive wheels on the ground? Can it be done without damaging the OD? If so, should the OD be engaged or disengaged? Mike

I bought a pair of 6 ton stands from Harbor Fright and will probably get another pair on my next trip there. They appear to be of good quality and I rarely put over 1,500 lbs on one stand and never go under the car unless it is on at least two stands.

Or Coleman fuel.

An old timer told me that the best way to prime an oil pump on an old Mopar engine was to lightly pack it with vaseline as the vaseline will dissolve in engine oil. Has anyone ever tried this trick or was he blowing smoke up my tail pipe?

Be careful with your lube choices. Anything with a spec newer than GL-1 has additives (mostly sulfur compounds) that are not good for the 'yellow metals' (brass and bronze) that are used our three speed transmissions.

I sent my entry in months ago.

We can't make it. We already have two events booked for that weekend.

Hoses are a repair someone made at one time. Usually they are connected with steel tubing.

Andy Bernbaum sells motor mounts.

When I had my MG-B one of the forums had a 'DPO (dumb previous owner)/IPO (idiot previous owner)' thread that listed what folks had done thinking they were doing the right thing while making things much more difficult for the next owner to fix. I could not find one here so I will start one. I am in the process of changing out the engine in my 1951 Plymouth Cambridge. The old engine was tired and I was on the OPEC Christmas card list and Exxon-Mobil was ready to set me up as a dealer for all of the oil it was leaking. We all know that the previous owners mean well with their repairs but sometimes they are not as skilled as they think they are. In the process of changing out the engine here are some of the things that I found were incorrectly done. First, when the DPO changed out the engine, the head was missing the tapped hole for the throttle bellcrank pin. To compensate they welded a plate to two of the head bolts and welded on a piece of rod for the bellcrank pivot. I needed to grind off the plate to remove the head from the old engine. Both bolts were loose and could not be retorqued with the plate welded between them. I was surprised that it never blew the head gasket. Second, when I went to reinstall the yoke and radiator support after installing the new engine, things were not lining up. When I removed them, I noticed that the radiator support could easily be installed backwards and that there was a lot of stress on the bolts. I carefully marked the radiator support to make sure it went back in correctly. I had noticed that when removing them there was a lot of shear stress on the bolts. When reinstalling the yoke, I had all kinds of difficulty installing the bolts and that is when I found that the support was installed backwards by the DPO. Once I reversed it, everything lined up and the front end sits about one inch lower. It also explains why they drilled new holes for the radiator bolts. Third, the previous owner who did the engine work must have liked spending a lot of money buying hardware store quality bolts. I think I broke off at least a dozen on this project. Grade 8 bolts are less than $5 per pound at Tractor Supply and Runnings so you can get a lot of high quality bolts for a lot less money than buying them a couple at a time at the hardware store. I am sure I will find more as I continue with this project.

I agree with Plymouthy In the 80s I designed industrial paint systems. HVLP was fine for surfaces where a high quality finish is not expected. It was not as effective on intricate pieces. Just as quickly as HVLP came into vogue, industry found that powder offered a lot more options at a much lower overall cost, the primary advantage of powder was that its overspray can be recycled, liquid sprays cannot.

Five minutes at NAPA and I am all set. Thanks for the help!

JerseyHarold. Our local chain parts purveyors do not have the Dorman rack of goodies. The kid at Pep Boys was zero help as his computer did not show any linkage parts for a 1951 Plymouth. I will have to head over to NAPA tomorrow where they have real parts people.

. That is exactly what I was looking for. I checked ebay and only found the ball type. Thanks!

I am looking for a source for the clip that holds the 1/4" throttle linkage ends. It fits on the bell crank and snaps onto the rod right after the 90 degree bend at the end of the rod. I would post a picture if I had another clip. Thanks.

Rebuilding them is simple. I got a kit from the Carburetor Doctor. Everything was there and then some. Beware, the two balls are NOT the same size. Be sure you get them in the correct location.

Is there a rule that the meets must be in close proximity to the Mississippi River?

I used Rectorseal #5, a non-hardening pipe dope that is commonly used for steam and water piping on all of the bolts and studs that go through a water jacket. You should be able to find a small bottle for a couple of bucks at your local hardware store.

I searched the archives but could not find an answer. I am installing an overdrive in my 51 Cambridge. Does anyone have a carburetor bracket that holds the kick down switch that they would like to sell or does anyone have a picture of one so I can fabricate one? Thanks, Mike

How much play should there be in a 3 speed manual transmission front pinion bearing? I have the back of the transmission off as I am rebuilding the OD unit and the front pinion has some play in it. I cannot feel any roughness or hear anything abnormal. I am not sure if I should replace it or not. The rest of the transmission looks real good and I don't want to get involved with the countershaft needle bearings if I don't have to. Thanks in advance.

I knew about that one.

I must be an idiot. I have a 3 speed transmission from a 52 Dodge with an OD unit. I am trying to separate the transmission from the Overdrive unit so I can inspect the OD and replace the seals. I know about the two hidden screws that hold the adapter plate to the OD unit. I can get the trans and OD to separate about 1.5" and that is it. The OD input and trans output shaft appear to be a common piece, but the books and every other piece of information makes it look like they should be two pieces. I do not want to completely disassemble the transmission, so what am I missing here? Thanks in advance for your responses.

I am getting ready to pull the engine out of my 1951 Plymouth Cambridge. I am going to pull the transmission first. How much of the clutch linkage do I have to remove and what should I be concerned with in dealing with the linkage?