thebeebe5

No. Main bearing journals are completely different size. OP: Why not just pull the 201 and get it repaired and then put it back in? Seems like a lot of trouble to go though for a couple months of waiting...

All I have is a seal along the bottom of the door panel held in place by... the door panel.

I’ll look in the am. I just recall a windlace on mine....

Welcome. Saw that car on CL. Personally I like the 6v. Works just fine.

Depending on the condition of the motor... as mentioned, plugged/rotted water tube? I’ll say from experience upon tearing down my ‘37 I found an almost non existent water tube, and enough crud built up in the water jacket at the floor and around cylinders No. 5-6 that there couldn’t have been much circulation back there. Engine ran hot even in cool weather.

I ordered from bernbaum for my 37. They sent the wrong shoes. Bigger ones for a later model. They sent me the proper ones eventually, but by then I’d already taken my shoes to be relined. If relining is a viable option don’t shy away from it.

https://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/tighteningtorque.ht Think I torqued mine to 18lb/ft. I don’t recall a torque spec in the book either, but torque specs should hold from application to application. Just follow a torque schedule like the above.

Give a shout if you need any additional advice. Also, if you need any machine work I know the place to go.

Valve guides don’t always have to be replaced. Depends on how much slop is in them. Your machine shop can guide you on that. And a silicone bronze guide liner can be installed quite easily and probably save a bit of time. Oil? I’d probably see what the bearing relief is after machine work. 0.0025”- 0.003” clearance I’d use Valvoline VR-1 20w50. It has everything a flat tappet cam could need, and you’ll get arguments about if or not our whimpy spring valve train even needs it. For my $ I’m happy to spend a little extra for the peace of mind. Few of us drive 3k-4k miles a month in these old cars. You won’t be doing multiple oil changes per year. You can read my (and other’s) multiple build threads throughout the forum and get some solid guidance. http://p15-d24.com/topic/43897-time-for-an-overhaul/?tab=comments#comment-467033

Thanks, fellows. It works. I use it EVERY time I enjoy a drive which in Arizona is rear ‘round. It seems a little stiff is why I am asking. And looking at the metal strip that raises and supports the window itself made me wonder first of all how the heck it works (it’s perfectly smooth) and if I needed to give it periodic attention.

Wondering if there’s any recommended maintenance for the windscreen opening mechanism. I looked through the service manual and did not find anything. Definitely do not want this thing breaking due to lack of care.

Ebay is always a good source for interior bits.

I just did mine last weekend. Pulled the cable out of the car. Removed the core. Washed both in a Safety Kleen parts washer. Dried them thoroughly and greased and reinstalled the core. Once installed my speedo needle was smooth as silk. It had been squeaking and bouncing the needle a bit. Easy and darned near free save some effort... ????

When I needed to change jet sizes (as determined with a AFR computer program and O2 sensor) I found it quite easy to pin gauge the current jet, solder it up and re-drill smaller as needed. I cover the set up and jetting in my “time for an overhaul” thread at the end. Of course even without AFR equipment you can make required changes this way. The solder is nice because all you need do is heat the jet quickly to melt out the solder I’d you want to go back to whatever size it was initialy, provided you haven’t over-sized it of course.

Don’t do it like this guy...

If you are getting variations in the lash that you set when you turn the motor over then you probably are not adjusting the valves with the tappet on the base circle of the camshaft. That could account for variability in your valve adjustment from rotation to rotation as you address in question number two. I use the EOIC method. On any cylinder with the exhaust valve beginning to open the inake lifter will be on its base circle. With the intake about 1/2 closed the exhaust valve will be on its base circle. It’s easiest if someone can hand crank the engine over for you and you can stay put and watch the lifters, then make your adjustment. You’ll get lots of different opinions and advice on this. There are more than one way to skin this cat. This is how it’s easiest for me on all my engines with solid lifters.

After rebuiling my ‘37s 201cid I get 60psi at speed running Valvoline 10w/30 VR1 oil. That drops to between 55-60 on a hot day/long drive. Idle is a tick under 40psi. I’d rather have a bit more than too little. Yours doesn’t sound too out of line.

thrushexhaust.com

I’ve had two aftermarket front mounts in my hands. Neither fit properly. Might need to widen the holes in the mount..... Hopefully it fits right off!!

Nice to see it on the road!!

Took a drive over to Scottsdale for the afternoon. Car is running fine... Needing shocks though...

Ran mine around the back. I guess whatever suits you.... edit: And I did use the NiCop line for ease of installation.

I installed the white version of these in my ‘37. Work fine. Cheap. Not sure what the watsses are, but they’re much brighter than the original filament bulbs. https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-2_6-watt-58-ba15d-6-to-24-volt-ac-or-dc-non-polarity.aspx

Looks like yes.

This is the best I have.... Didn’t ever thunk to measure the hole while the engine was apart... But it looks roughly 1/2 the diamater of the tube.