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thebeebe5

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Everything posted by thebeebe5

  1. thebeebe5
    Does anyone have any pictures of a 37 (or similar) door hinge assembly taken apart? I’m wanting to see the components involved..... Haven’t had luck with internet searches....
  2. thebeebe5
    Was in the habit of visiting So Cal Speed Shop's 2nd Saturday shoe box swap meet with my neighbor, but the last year of working on the car has kept me away.... Was nice to take the coupe out early this am. Seemed to run well. There's an occasional miss I need to run down, and one lifter is ticking louder than I think it ought to be, but it ran really well otherwise. One person actually looked at it....
  3. thebeebe5
    Saw this Dodge Bros roadster at So Cal Speed Shop swap meet this am, and there's a 426 wedge Super Stock with a cross ram intake that fits neatly and barely under the hood.... Bound to be an exciting ride...!!
  4. thebeebe5
    1937 Plymouth Had these apart a few times since I acquired the car 4-5 ish years ago. Bought LED replacement bulbs this week and while installing them it occured to me that there are no reflectors therein.... ? Should there be? I could at a minimum paint the inside of the light housings white. That would help. And the LEDs have made a huge difference already!!
  5. thebeebe5
    If you don’t trust it why use it? Maybe check it out on the stovetop? Or, Just plug an aftermarket mechanical (that you’ve tested on the stovetop) into the proper place and use that. Either way you should be using agauge you trust that is tested.
  6. thebeebe5
    I picked up one of these to use as a donor. It was right on 212 degrees with the stovetop check and was really reasonable as far as price goes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Make-Waves-Mechanical-Water-Temperature-Gauge-3401b-1-5-8-Diameter/153145866031?hash=item23a834772f:g:xsAAAOSwSYpZ2USN:sc:USPSFirstClass!85379!US!-1 Planning to follow Tod's instructions. Just haven't gotten a round-tuit.
  7. thebeebe5
    Cometic will make a gasket to match that one (or nearly...) if you need it. Otherwise, Don has the answer. I’ve measured both old take-off gaskets and new FelPro composite gaskets in the 0.075” range. Have not had a copper shim gasket to measure as of yet. I will say that if your pistons are zero decked (piston tops exactly even with block deck) you’ll want a thicker gasket. Should have about 0.035-0.040” quench for best running.
  8. thebeebe5
    Problem solved. Thanks all! Now I have a little touch up painting to do...
  9. thebeebe5
    Amsoil is good oil. I’m currently driving a 2007 Accord with 369,000 miles on it and it’s had Amsoil in it its entire life. For Zinc content they make a “Z Rod” oil that I run in my Ford FE that runs double valve speings and solid lifters. Think the Z Rod comes in a couple of different weights too.... not much more than dino oil and much longer change intervals.
  10. thebeebe5
    And it will certainly be discussed many more times. I agree that the stock spring pressures of these engines are very unlikely to wipe a cam lobe, but having been the victim of a wiped cam lobe in another engine I’m always a bit nervous.... even with spring pressures for my recent flathead build being only 40 PSI on the seat and 97 PSI at full lift I’m still going to run Valvoline VR1 oil. Has everything a flat tappet engine should need as far as essential ingredients for cam/lifter longevity.
  11. thebeebe5
    I used damper doctor for a 67 Ford damper with great reaults. Definitely recommend him. He’s grown a bit and has some additional help there, but that may just make him faster. Give him a call.
  12. thebeebe5
    Great info! I’ll have one in brown, please! Seriously, I’ll be looking out for some of these. Thanks!
  13. thebeebe5
    Ah... that’s further up on the firewall. Mine wasn’t hooked up when I got the car. Juat had an extra IH 6v coil to the ouside of the voltage regulator... But I’d like to get an original style coil at some point....
  14. thebeebe5
    That grommet looks about the right size. I don’t believe it has been enlarged. I can throw a caliper on it and measure....
  15. thebeebe5
    What would have/should have gone on my firewall to cover the starter button hole? Car came with a poorly made piece of plastic crap. I hate to put it back because it’s.... gross. Wondering if I can adapt a leather shift boot... ?
  16. thebeebe5
    I’ll sometimes use a fuel stabilizer, especially if a vehicle will sit for an extended period (like summer), but i don’t use an oil stabilizer....
  17. thebeebe5
    She’ll never be able to tell the difference. Just don’t have more than one at the house at any one time, and whatever you do to one vehicle do to the other. Problem solved. Very cool btw... love two door wagons/suburbans/panels etc.
  18. thebeebe5
    I think i understand what you mean. In an unmodified system trying to force all the oil through a tiny 1/8” NPT fitting and line and then through a filter and then back to the main oil galley would cause too little flow to the main oil galley....
  19. thebeebe5
    Great info. I’ll make sure the frame has a ground contact. Now... where did I leave my carbon tet...?
  20. thebeebe5
    Why would a full flow conversion lose oil pressure?
  21. thebeebe5
    I completely forgot about my Motors Manual.... I’ll look it up.
  22. thebeebe5
    I have a few points files around here.... Just need to know the proper direction now. Don’t want more sticking. Oh! And if the regulator needs to be isolated from the firewall with rubber grommets. That would seem to make sense.....
  23. thebeebe5
    Okay, good to know. Seriously, thanks for all the help this morning. Where can I find the proper direction to file?
  24. thebeebe5
    ONE more question. Is the regulator supposed to be isolated from ground?? I see my rubber grommets are deteriorating quite a bit. Should be easily replaceable with a modern rubber replacement. Wonder if that’s the problem.... ?
  25. thebeebe5
    Looks like 25amps for the 4002 Burned a bit here. I released the clip and filed the surfaces a bit. Not sure how bad the internal damage might be.... Also, I know the gap is adjustable on the one point for type of driving. Is it a smaller gap for lower amp charges or a larger gap? Unfortunately my shop manual is at the shop, and, well.... my voltage regulator and I are at home.
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