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jme821

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  • My Project Cars
    1936 Plymouth P2 Touring Sedan

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  • Location
    Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Not working on the Plymouth.

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  1. I have a 1936 Plymouth P2 that is experiencing higher than normal oil pressure at around 30mph. The shop manual states that it should be between 30-45psi. I’m experiencing 60psi. I’ve researched replacing the oil pressure relief valve spring with a lower spring rate spring but both manual (Motors and Mopar) suggested only replacing the spring with what is there already. If it was regular, replace with a regular. If it were a higher or lower, then the same. The engine was freshly rebuilt and has 250 miles on it. Has anybody ignored the manuals and changed the spring rate to adjust the oil pressure? Thank you.
  2. Mr. Merle, P15-D24 and sser2, it almost looks tempting enough to bypass all this by way of electronic points conversion kit? But do they make such a 6v, positive ground beast? Although the fella that rebuilt my distributor made it much better than it was before, he didn’t make it perfect. So my options are like this, it’s either a points conversion kit, a NOS distributor or finding out who sells bushing rebuild kits? Does anyone know if a newer model distributor interchanges with 1936 Plymouth P2?
  3. It idles perfectly. Revving up to top end is another story altogether. It’ll shutter violently revving to top end. So I apologize for misinforming you all about when/where the shuttering occurs. It’s not just in third gear trying to reach top speed. Hypothetically, is possible to run undersized main bearings and connecting rod bearings during all that I described above?
  4. Right. That’s exactly what I had done to the distributor and it did help out a little bit. I’m now wondering if the harmonic balancer and crankshaft vibration damper need rebuilt? Oldmoparts offer that service even 70mph? I couldn’t imagine that car being equipped with a 3 speed manual transmission going that fast, but when it’s all said and done, every mechanical part will be new, so it’ll be fun to find out.
  5. I would agree with you but those issues were addressed prior to the most recent tear down. The distributor was recently repacked with new grease which helped get it to 35mph. Before the top speed was about 30mph. It cuts out and shakes violently before starving itself of something. These cars P2s are supposed to top out at 45mph.
  6. I won’t know until its all reinstalled this weekend. Thankfully oil pan gaskets are still available at Oreillys and cheap so if the flywheel and clutch doesn’t fix the problem, the pan will get dropped and the bearings will get plasticgauged.
  7. The problem lies in the car trying to reach speeds exceeding 35mph. Once it gets to that point, the car violently shutters and consequently shuts down. I just recently had the flywheel resurfaced, installed a new ring gear, clutch plate, clutch cover and pressure plate assembly. Hopefully all that fixes the problem. If not, then final place to look is the connecting rod bearing and crankshaft bearings. I want this nightmare to end.
  8. Thank you Mr. Coatney. That’s the best news I’ve heard all year!
  9. Does anyone here have experience with shim stock applied to main bearings on their flathead six engines? I recently rebuilt a 201.3 c.i. and found out after putting the engine back together and driving down the road that it calls for shim stock between the main bearings and crankshaft. Any input would greatly appreciated.
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