MBF

Are the valves the same? I vaguely remember when I did the valve job on mine a few years back that the NOS exh set that I had for a 218 were smaller and wouldn't work. I ended up taking a sample of one exh to the machinist and he was able to match them up by size - not application. The guides were the same. Does that sound right? I either had (probably still have) a mislabled NOS set of valves, or there was something different about them.

I've had 'em jump on an 80's Buick, and a 70 Ford but that was because both cam gears lost part of the nylon teeth on the cam gear. I've never seen 'em jump on a steel gear. I'd put #1 at TDC compression and see where the rotor is pointing to be sure before I dug into it. While the cap is still off, rock the crank back and forth and see how many degrees it travels before the rotor actual starts to move (you can use your timing marks as a reference).

I would think you'd have less valve/lifter clearance when hot as the valve and lifter expand so you'd be less likely to hear valve noise on a hot engine. That's why they suggest setting them when up to temp and heat soaked. Why not take a piece of heater hose or something similarly sized and use it as a stethoscope to see if you can't locate the source of the noise. If you've got that type of oil pressure I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Husker-are you sure this is a '51 and not an earlier model? If its a 48-50 (judging by the doors and wiper transmissions I think it may be). The earlier models used a steering box mounted on a cast bracket that bolts to the frame. It may seem like the engine is moving, but it may be the box wiggling on the frame. Check that the mounting bolts to the frame, and the bracket to box are present and accounted for, and tight. You may want to check that to see that the bracket isn't broken if that is the style that you have. Also check the rear shackles on the front springs for wear to make sure there is no side play in them. If the box is holding lubricant, unless its been totally trashed I would thing you should be able to adjust some of the play out. Good luck.

WOW! What a job you did on that. Enjoy.

I've got a picture of mine hauling an outhouse that I bought. I'll scan it and post it. Does that qualify?

I got lucky last year. Bought a set of 3 kerosene flares (never been lit) and their mounting rack. I have those on the bed of the 1 ton. When I bought the flatbed body for the 2.5 ton on one of the stringers there was an almost new rounded metal box mounted underneath it with reflectors in it. Also found two of those hinged round metal containers that held a headlight sealed beam, and an assortment of bulbs that were kept under the seat. In Macungie, I found a bracket for my brass carbon tet fire extinguisher. I like these period correct accessories.

Which side of the hood do you need?

Nice truck-good project. When you say the diff is missing is the entire differential housing, or just the center section? I'm not sure, but I would imagine the actual center section is the same as other 1 ton trucks (someone here may know for sure). If it is, I'd be looking for a 4.3 or the even rarer 3.9 chunk to give you a higher road speed. I would think that the wheel cylinders would be similar to the 1 tons, and if they are, I can give you p/n's of the ones I bought from NAPA. Good luck with your project, and please keep us posted on your progress.

Roadside reflectors as 48Dodge said. They came in several styles.

I really learned a lot over the years referring back to his book many times. He did all of us a great service through his research. I hope he's at peace.

Sorry to hear that Fernando. If your truck is wired as original, everything is routed through the ammeter. If you've added heavy amp draw accessories you may want to wire them individually with their own breaker. If you haven't added anything, it sounds like you've got a lot of resistance (bad ground?) in one or more of your circuits to cause it to overheat. Mike

I took two tractor headlights. Mounted one on the front bulkhead of the rack body to light up the inside of the body, and the other on the left frame rail behind the rear shackle. They're both on a single switch under the dash.

I just bought a clutch kit for my B2J from Carolina Clutch. They had all of the pieces in stock. Mike

I've had several old trucks that I've restored including an F Model Mack w sleeper. That one was my last diesel. 12 gallon (yes gallon) oil changes, 3 oil filters, two fuel filters and on and on. Given the truck had the extended service package, but I'd never run the thing long or hard enough to get to the next service interval for several years. Here comes the condensation and sludge avoidance oil changes at over $200 a pop. I was at our show in Macungie this past weekend talking with several hobbyist restorers of the smaller trucks. With the price differential of diesel vs gas, and the occasional hobbyist type use most of us give our vehicles, the gas engine is still to me more cost effective. Not knocking diesel, but if I'm not going to take a vehicle out to work it, or put some serious miles on it, I'm gonna stick with gas jobs. Just my personal preference. Mike

Think of the smiles yer gettin' per mile and it makes it all worthwhile

Way to go Todd. Getting your wife to ride 50 miles in an unloaded tractor trailer with no air seat-that is the big accomplishment here! I did that with my wife about 30 yrs ago and bobtailed almost 170 miles to pick up a trailer. She was lucky-the passenger seat was also air. I still don't think I'd try that again today though. Mike

If it helps at all, my 49 B2D116 with the factory rackbody weighs 4500 empty on a certified scale.

I think what Joe said probably is the case here. I had the same issue when I went to the flywheel back in my slant 6. It took several attempts before I got the flywheel indexed correctly. There are 8 potential possibilities, but only 1 that actually works! Mike

The best therapy you can have to speed your recovery. It looks great. Please keep the pics coming.

Yup-what they all said. Did it on my 36 Plymouth several years ago.

I think you'd be fine with just the gaskets, but if you want to be sure get a small tube of furnace cement and work it into the pitted areas. Buy the smallest tube you can because once you open it, it seems to harden in the tube over time. Mike

Our 4th Friday night cruise got rained out again tonight. This is getting old really fast. We have about a dozen MoPars that frequent this and other local events.

I think I'd try the simple route first. Check the ignition timing to see where that is at. If that is ok, try to do a good flushing as you can of the radiator and block through the lower radiator hose and block drain plug and replace the thermostat. If that doesn't work help solve the problem I'd pull the water pump and check the pump and water distribution tube. Also check your radiator for cold spots after it warms up. You may have areas that are blocked off. Removing the welch plugs and fishing/flushing the block may also be in the offing. Good luck-hope its something simple. Mike

For freeing stuck valves I've had good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil. Once you get it so that it will run and can get it hot, I'd try giving it a dose down the throat of the carb until it almost chokes out. Let it clear itself, and do it again. It's gonna smoke big time while you do this, but that should help free up any sluggish valves. I would think any kind of penetrating oil in the cylinders with the head off (including the ATF / Acetone) would help free up the rings. What do the cylinder walls look like? Is there any scoring? How much of a top ridge is there? Hopefully she'll wake up and get the readings into a higher area by running it awhile. Hopefully its just waking up from a long nap. Mike