MBF

Is there an inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing? If it's like the flatties in the Pilot houses, you can r /r the clutch and t/o bearing by removing the cover and the clutch yoke on the clutch shaft. Rotate the clutch shaft to move the t/o bearing fingers to the rear of the bellhousing so you can remove the t/o bearing through the input shaft opening. From that point on you can remove the clutch plate mounting bolts around the circumference of the clutch plate and the the clutch plate and disk will come out through the bottom of the bell housing. You may want an extra set of hands to help you lower the assemble out of the bellhousing so that it doesn't just drop out. You can then remove the flywheel bolts, and then the flywheel to have it resurfaced.

Is the eye in the chassis worn and hogged out? I had the same problem with a set of shackles I bought years ago aftermarket and ended up going to NAPA. There was a difference in the size. Mike

Most semis use a frame mounted steering box with a pitman arm / draglink setup. I'm not aware of any r/p steering for big trucks with straight axles. I'm trying to understand how an axle mounted r/p setup would work given all the movement that goes on with the axle. Not saying it can't be done, just trying to figure out how it would work safely. Mike

Welcome to the forum. Looks like you've got a really solid start on that 1 ton, and donor vehicle to boot. Two birds with a single stone. Keep the pics coming. Mike

Looks really nice Jeff. Do you know what size valve (or for what application) you ended up using? What kind of vacuum were you pulling when you had the uneven idle, and what is the reading now? The reason I'm asking is that on the 230 in my 1 ton, I'm using a valve from a slant six. It runs ok, and keeps the oil much cleaner than before, my wipers seem to work ok, but my wolf whistle is anemic to say the least. Not a real accurate test, but I think I could go just a bit smaller on the size of the valve. Definitely can't use the wipers and whistle at the same time-but is doesn't see much rain. I think I'm going to convert the 251 in my 2.5 ton to a PCV system too. Mike

I wonder if this setup is peculiar to rh drive vehicle?

I'll second what Merle said. Check around the inside of the body to see if you can find a tag that shows who the aftermarket body manufacturer was. Do you have any pictures of the driver's compartment and dash from inside? Looks like a good project. Mike

I wonder if that starter wasn't originally in a cabover, a route van, or some type of agricultural / industiral application. Just thinking out loud

Pretty sure your battery cable end goes on the post on the right of your photo. I believe that box on the starter may be a relay so I'm not too sure why they used such a heavy duty inline switch. There should also be a nut on the left post to clamp the buss and make a good connection.

Wow-how many hours in that? Nice work-really nice

Mr Bryllcreem: I looked at your photo again. I just happened to remember-that style steering setup has the adjustable caps on the pitman arm end(s). In addition to being adjustable, the inner caps are replaceable and available through several suppliers. You may want to get a rebuild kit to go along with whatever you decide to do with the pitman arm. Mike

I think VPW has them for power wagons, but I'mt sure about the aftermarket, for 2wd trucks. I'm thinking that a good machine shop should be able to build it up with weld and reshape it. Mike

Hanging valves in a flatty is a common problem if they're not run regularly especially in humid areas

Yup-what Don said......

I just paid $185 for a disc, plate, throwout and pilot shaft bearing from Carolina Clutch for my 2.5 ton. What kind of Model T has a clutch and throwout bearing? Is it a conversion from the planetary transmission?

I recently went through this with the 2.5 ton. Suddenly stopped charging after a long run at night. Pulled the generator, did the motoring test which it failed, so I tried a a spare generator. Still nothing. Rechecked the terminals on the generator and regulator ends, polarized it-no change. I did notice that the circuit breaker contacts in the regulator were cycling open and closed. Checked ground on the regulator and cleaned up the contacts-nada. Swapped in another regulator and voila back in business!

Wow, that is going to be a sweet looking ride when you're done. The cab patina matches what I'm finding on my 46 dump. I'm just going to do what you did and clean up the chassis and, buff out the paint, and wax it. It's even nicer inside. I like the look of it's age, Mike

I think you may have also had to step on the brake pedal after turning the switch off to release the check valve in the solenoid. With the mechanically valved version, I know that had to be done after you moved the lever. Mike

I had my brake apart on my 1 ton a few yrs back. If I remember correctly there is a y shaped bracket that bolts to the rear of the transmission that hold the brake band (on the driver's side), and another arm on the passenger side to hold the pivoting linkage in place. If the band is the same size as the drum on your transmission it should work, if not, you'll have to see of the splined shaft, and the u-joint mount are the same as the driveshaft on your trans. If that is the case, the drum and the linkage could be swapped over. If you have a column mounted shift in your truck, and the donor is a floor shifted transmission, you may have issues with the linkage and pivot assemblies to deal with too. Just my rambling. Mike

I'm 61 and if I use 87 octane with directionals and a compass how fast can I go?

I had my 49 1 ton out last night to a cruise, and it runs good at about 45 with the 4.3 rear and 6.50-16's dual on the rear. I'm planning on going to 7.00-16's over the winter that will raise my cruise speed only slightly. I have a 78 Dodge D100 that I've had for 33 yrs with a slant 6 and 3.55 rear running 215/75R-15's. The 3 speed is 1:1 in high gear, and at 60 she's starting to wind up. I've had it up to 70 to pass on an interstate, but I wouldn't leave it there any longer than I have to because of the high rpm's. I have calculated the rpm's in both vehicles using the rpm calculator, but I'm going by my ear and gut. I've rebuilt both of these engines once (I got 150K out of the slant before it went), and am in no hurry to do either one again. You might do 70 for a short time with a flattie and a 3.55 rear, but I don't think you'd do it for long at least from what I've seen. Mike

Looks like you're off to a good start! Mike

There are a couple of different versions of pumps. And you need to match up what you have or you'll have pulley alignment issues. At least that was my experience with the 251 in my 2.5 ton. I think I still have the boxes on the shelf from the one I did in my 230, and the 251. Mike

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your new purchase. We're kind of a gender neutral group here as far as defining trucks anyway. Would like to see some pics when you figure out how to post 'em.

Wow, another x firetruck. They're a great place to start. My 2.5 ton started out as one also. Very solid, and low mileage. The 6 lug wheels that you have on your truck should be are a lot easier to find than the 5 lug on my B2JA. Nice long wheel base. Too bad they cut up the front for the front mounted pump, but everything in fixable. Best of luck with your project. Mike