MBF

My grandkids are young, but only go in my trucks in a seat belted car seat, and then only one at a time. In an accident the last thing I want to think about is someone bouncing off the steel dashboard. Think about an accident Paul, you've potentially have four bowling balls slamming around uncontrolled in an unpadded cab. My 2 cents, and your choice.

On these vehicles with the stock powertrains, I look at the radiator cap as a nothing more than a cover to the radiator spout to check coolent levels, and to keep the coolent in the system. Simple is good by me. Mike

My Dad worked for New York Telephone as an installer / repairman and had a 52 PH with one of their utility bodies on the back. He brought that truck home every night, and I played in the cab. Sometimes he'd get called back in at night and he'd take me with him. I stood on the seat and played with the roof mounted spotlight. The rest is history

Here's a couple of things to try. Make sure that you have a good ground on your steering box and tube that covers the shaft. There should also be an 8 sided bolt on the back of the horn itself that lets you adjust the tone and volume. Maybe an insect built a nest against the steel disk inside. Try tapping the bell with the horn upside down and see if anything comes out. You may want to check and make sure that someone hasn't put a 12v horn in there-that'll never give you the kind of meep-meep you're looking for if you're running a 6 volt system. I've got the 6 volt horn on my 1 ton that I converted to 12 volts. Now that's a good strong MEEP MEEP!

The B series offered from '48-'53 had a much larger cab than the previous series manufactured from '39-'47. The newer larger cabs also had larger glass areas, and offered as a option the rear corner windows that created much more driver visibility and comfort. Hence the PH name. Having a 46 dumptruck, a '49 std cab truck, and another one with the optional rear corner windows the evolution and improvements in the new design becomes quite noticeable.. Mike

I checked this morning. The bolt holes are 2" on center, and the NAPA p/n's were 3595 and 3596. Mike

TS-I'll check in the morning and post the info. Mike

When you're installing the pump into the block, hug the inner block wall with the end of the pump actuating arm to make sure that it isn't slipping to the underside the cam. Been there and done that. Mike

TS: What is the center to center measurement of the mounting bolt holes? I will measure the ones that I took off and if they're the same as yours, I'll give you the NAPA p/n's that I used. They are both stepped bores. Mike F

I hope being for sale is the only reason that is sitting outside like that. That Model A is a classic and needs to get out of the weather. Nicely set up with the 16" wheels on it.

I see Ryan has numerous fans! Sorry, I couldn't resist. Great job Ryan!

Push it down and I believe you turn it clockwise. Don't force it or you'll break one of the ears off.

Are your brakes hanging up after you apply them, or are they dragging all the time even after sitting for awhile? If its the first situation, you're probably going to have to go beyond adjustment and check for crudded up wheel cylinders, or collapsed brake lines that aren't allowing fluid to return to the mc when the pedal is released. If they're dragging w/o applying them, you can try jacking up each front wheel separately, and backing off the adjustment (large center bolt head on the front and rear of each backing plate) to see if you can reduce the drag. That is the "minor" and is only a partial adjustment so you can move it around easier, the proper procedure for doing the major and minor adjustments can be found on the forum, but you'll need something similar to an AMSCO brake tool for these vehicles to get the shoes adjusted properly. Mike

Why not just rebuild the '50 axle w the '50 spindles?

The axles themselves are interchangeable. I've got one from a 53 under the front of my 49.

If you truly have stuck valves, you can try pulling the side covers and hitting the valve guides with some penetrating oil and then see if you can gently tap them to get them to move. If this works, the key is to keep working the valve up and down with penetrating oil until it closes by itself w/o assistance. I lucked out on my last purchase and caught it in the nick of time. It was running on 4 cyls when I bought it. When it was delivered I choked it off on Marvel Mystery Oil (down the carb throat) and let it sit overnite. The next morning it started on all 6, and has been running fine since. Good luck. Mike

What Merle said is correct. On my B2D, they left and right are stepped and mirror images of each other. They are side specific, but the left front is the same as the left rear-same for the right. The 3595, and 3596 p/n's ring a bell. If you need me to I can search my receipts tomorrow to get you the p/n's that I ordered when I replaced mine. Mike

Welcome to the forum Vance1234. The corner windows can be tricky to install, and glass gets brittle as it ages. I know that there are members here that have extra corner glass, but you may want to have a professional reinstall the corner glass when you get the new rubber to avoid breaking them. The other glass is flat and a lot easier to do yourself. I agree with stockpiling parts. Every parts truck I've bought has been cannibalized before scrapping any carcasses. Sheet metal, switches, suspension, chrome, drivetrain, electrical parts, etc may all come in handy down the road. Best of luck with your project.

NICE!

My B2D has a 3 speed floor shifted transmission with the floor mounted parking brake. I have a 3 speed from the W series that I keep as a spare. That also has the floor mounted parking break. What I do notice is that the shift tower on the W series trans is located further ahead of the one for the B. Other than that it appears to be the same. I believe the lever would have to be curved with a heat wrench to be able to get it into reverse and 2nd in a B series. If someone has an interchange book from the period that should give you a better idea if it's a drop in. I don't think the shift towers are interchangeable, not sure about the internals. Mike

Congratulations. Good luck with the project. Keep us updated.

I'll 2nd what Todfitch said. If it was running before you took it apart, and the check valves aren't stuck or plugged up, check the gasket in the sediment bowl to make sure it is sealing properly. Also make sure that the pivot pin on the actuating arm on the pump isn't broken. You may also want to take the gas cap off the tank and try blowing back through the line that runs to the pump to see if you can hear bubbling in the tank, or for leaks in the gas line or at one of the connections. While you've got the pump apart I'd throw a kit in it with the newer materials. Mike

Nice Ryan, real nice. I like the gray color a lot

I think some of the power wagons had this type of setup that didn't use the self adjusting bimetallic spring and counterweight. This setup requires manual adjustment and is referenced in some of the service manuals I've seen. The top bolt is most likely where the post for the arm of the spring would mount if so equipped. If it were mine, I think I'd be moving that adjustment periodically to keep it limber so that it doesn't seize in one position. If you need me to, I can reference the service manual and try to get a pic for you. Mike

Is there an inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing? If it's like the flatties in the Pilot houses, you can r /r the clutch and t/o bearing by removing the cover and the clutch yoke on the clutch shaft. Rotate the clutch shaft to move the t/o bearing fingers to the rear of the bellhousing so you can remove the t/o bearing through the input shaft opening. From that point on you can remove the clutch plate mounting bolts around the circumference of the clutch plate and the the clutch plate and disk will come out through the bottom of the bell housing. You may want an extra set of hands to help you lower the assemble out of the bellhousing so that it doesn't just drop out. You can then remove the flywheel bolts, and then the flywheel to have it resurfaced.