MBF

I'm not sure where you are located, but depending on how cold it gets at your location could have an effect on things. Cold air is more dense and will require slightly more choke during a cold start to get the starting air/fuel mixture the same as what you have during warmer seasons. There is also a lot of iron to heat up to operating temperature. If you have installed a pcv system, that will also effect the starting process as it could create an overly lean mixture due to the fact that it is basically a controlled vacuum leak. Plug and point gap may also effect starting. Mike

You may also want to check the drip rails above both doors on the A pillar. I ended up putting seam sealer in both of mine as a preventative against future leaks when I was installing my headliner. As far as the floor- Idid put rubber strips between the seams on all the various panels as a rattle preventative. You may also want to check and make sure that there are no open holes in the firewall and plug them if needed. Mike

I think while I had it off I'd replace the gasket since it looks like those bolts have been replaced not too long ago (to repair heat riser shaft?). It'll be easier than putting them on and finding out you need to replace them after its running. Nice find. Good luck

Are you sure that the wing glass and the front rail on the main window are fully seated in their channels? If they are it looks like one of the vent window patterns is off as there is more overhang on the top of the frame than at the bottom. Where did you buy the vent window rubber? Mike

In my 1 ton, I left the brass center showing for awhile because I kinda liked that look. I have taken them apart and cleaned and painted the centers black. After allowing a couple days or so to dry, I lightly dusted them with white rattle can and carefully wiped off the white paint off the black background and left it in the embossed lettering. It might be just as easy to leave them together and mask them carefully, paint the centers, and then using a brush with a couple of bristles paint the letters. I'm sure someone else has done them and can offer other suggstions. Mike

Glad it all came out ok (pun intended). There is still time to adopt Rod and get the tax deduction for this year! What a good end to the story. Happy New Year. Mike

If It were mine (so you don't cripple it) I'd get the plug out using the methods suggested, and patch the known hole with some type of epoxy and refill it to see if there are any other leaks. If none are found you're good to go until you find the desired replacement. If you find another leak that needs patching drain it down below that hole and patch it. I just had my 1 ton on blocks for two weeks waiting to find and purchase new rear shackles on the rear. I personally don't like stuff inoperable so that I can move stuff around in my shop as needed. Hope you get lucky with the repair. Mike

While that is possible it involves quite a bit of fabrication. The original shock mounts on these trucks are not designed to support the weight of the vehicle. A structural suspension system would have to be made. There are several folks here that have lowered their vehicles by removing leaves from the springs. Pflaming comes to mind. You may want to try contacting him.

I like it- looks real good with the truck like its period correct. Mike

I just dug my copy out and started reading it again this morning. I'm at the age that I forget stuff, so its almost like a new read for me. I do get something more out of it each time I read it. Mine has the Chebby pic on the cover-maybe we can have a discussion group when we're done and compare notes. Mike

The doors should be internchangeable as long as they haven't been tweaked. You can try this to see what is the cause of your problem. Open the door and grab it by the rear corner and lift it and see where it moves. It may be as simple as worn hinge pins, a loose, or a bent hinge. If your A pillar is no longer attached to the floor, that will more involved. If you have worn pins or hinges I'm sure someone here will have something. I don't think the fit an finish on these vehicles was up to today's standards, but you should be able to get it a lot closer than it is now. Do you have any pics of the project? Good luck. Mike

The sender is just a rheostat reading a progressive ground within a specified range. The guage is what is voltage sensitive.

I've read it a couple of times. It is more of a philosofical (sp?) essay than a technical writing. It was a good read however. You'll be able to identify with his struggles. Mike

On my 49 they're the same as Wally2's. Left side of steering column. Mike

I would suggest some type of inertia switch to turn off the pump if your ever involved in an accident. W/o that switch the pump will continue to pump until the battery goes dead or someone shuts off the key. That could be a problem if a fuel line broke, or if the carburator was left in a position where the needle valve can't remain closed.

Larry: Nice looking project. You probably don't realize this, but you are learning a great deal. I like the older style dashes too. My 1 ton is registered as a 52, but its actually a 49 with a 52 nose that the previous owner put on. Sharp folks at shows pick up the differences, but most don't care. Its all good and please keep posting pictures. There is a lot of knowlege on this board to draw from. Best of luck. Mike

Also check the yoke where it rides on the seal. If there is a groove in it from the lip of the seal you may need a speedi sleeve over it to prevent your new seal from leaking. The sleeves are available from NAPA if you do need one.

No you can't do that. The rim isn't a drop center design and won't allow you to mount the tire since there is no recess for the bead to drop into while your working the opposite side over the lip of the rim. If the ring isn't bet, and does require a pry bar to remove it is probably ok to reuse. You'll have to clean the groove in the rim, and the lip on the ring. If you've never done these before, have a truck tire shop do them in a cage for you. I've seen these come apart while being inflated due to the ignorance of the operator-you don't want that to happen with the ring unrestrained. A good tire man should be able to explain what he is doing and why. PS-that is a sharp looking truck! Mike

Do you have the arms on the tractors facing up or down? Do the tractors and motor match the year of the cab? The 48-50 and 51-53 had different locations and tractors. I'm not sure if they're interchangable among the two different styles.

Nice Paul-looks good. There was a parade of lights up here tonight but it was cancelled due to heavy rain and ice. Was hoping to go, but chickened out.

All of my mopars leak at least that much. 3 have Carters, 1 has a Holley. They've all got seepage. Luckily no woof yet.

If aftermarket parts are sacrilege-what about hip & knee replacements, heart meds, etc. for the owners? We're all (trucks and owners) getting to the point the the OEM parts are wearing out and no longer available from the manufacturer. Yea, I know its only original once.......

What 41/53dodge said! The solenoid is only needed if you're going to do away with the foot activated switch. If you do make that switch I believe the bendix would have to be changed to the centrifugal type. The foot starter manually engages the gear on the starter to the flywheel teeth and the next part of the pedal travel closes the switch to turn on the starter motor. Mike

Converted my 36 Plym, and 52 1 ton to 12volts several years ago. Starter spins faster-no mods needed. Like the others said leaving it engaged too long will cause damage.

I'd check the drag link and shackles/bushings if you haven't already done so. I just installed a known good used box in my truck noticed my drag link was quite loose. I ordered a new one and will have it on this week. Did you check your toe in and caster settings after replacing the tie rod ends? Those bias ply tires follow any crack or seam in the road like a dog tracks a squirrel. When everything is tight and aligned, I'm anxious to see how this drives. Every thing I've done so far has made a difference-I hope this is the last piece of the steering puzzle for awhile. Mike