MBF

There are two different steering boxes for the smaller trucks. The earlier one uses the cast bracket that bolts to the frame, the other bolts to a stiffening arm that goes from the front cross member to the left frame rail. Although the boxes themselves are not interchangeable, I believe that all of the internals are which may simplify your parts search. You may want to check for lube in the box, and if it's in there, that the previous owner hasn't cranked down on the adjustment too tight to compensate for another worn component. PM me if you need parts I may be able to help with your rebuild.

I know that there are some here that think a cutoff switch isn't necessary. I rewired my truck several years ago and have not had even a single fuse blow since then. I will tell you having been to many structure fires as a volunteer firefighter, that some of these were caused by an almost new vehicle in the garage. I've also seen what mice can do to a wiring harness first hand, and I'm not giving the little buggers another chance to ruin my toys. I had a real nice MACK cabover parked right alongside of my garage. I was at a structure fire during a very severe thunderstorm with my FD. My daughter called me to tell me there was smoke coming out of the grill of the MACK. I hurried home to investigate. It turns out that Mice had chewed the insulation off an area of the pos batt cable, and the rain and wind from the storm caused it to short out against an uninsulated braided power steering hose. The short had burned through the braiding, and the oil was now dripping on the hot shorted cable. The smoke was the oil just starting to burn. There was almost a gallon of power steering fluid in the reservoir that would have gravity feed the leak in the hose. Had that happened I would have lost the MACK, and most likely my garage and everything in it because my FD had all equipment committed at the structure fire on the other end of town. Yup-call me what you want, but I'm one of those guys that never leaves battery connected on old vehicles while they're unattended for more than a little while.

Any resister with a load on it is going to get hot. The rheostat switches of the older design/construction were built to create and stand heat since their job is to burn off current in order to slow the blower motor. If the body of the switch around the rheostat is ceramic you're probably ok with it. Make sure that nothing comes into contact with it as the coil may get hot enough to glow-especially if there is an issue with the blower motor or its ground. In newer vehicles these resistors were put in the heat ducting to allow them to get rid of the excess heat more safely.

My God Paul. So sorry to hear about this. When you get things sorted out, I've got a good steering wheel and horn ring that are yours. Just tell me where to ship 'em. I'm sure you have other priorities right now, but I think that when you're ready, the folks that you have impacted here will get you back on the road quickly. We're a family all related by trucks. I wish you were closer so that I could be of more help. Good luck. Mike

Lookin' good Hank! Nice find and recovery.

4Mula-you needed a puller on 1 ton hubs? I thought they were all full floating rears? Mike

The two speeds for the larger trucks have even lower ranges than what he already has. I've got one of each, a 1 ton, and a 2.5 ton. The 1 ton is noticibly faster on the highway and the centers are no where near being interchangeable.

What gears do you currently have in the truck and what size tires? I think the rear choices were 3.9, 4.3, and 4.8. If you have the 4.8 and were able to find a 3.9 that would be an almost 20% reduction in rpms at any given speed and you don't have to mess with pulling the engine or fabbing up a parking/emergency brake. If you've got 6.50's on the back and went to 7:50's that would also make a difference. Another thing to consider is a mid 60's Ford F350 rear for a V-8. They have the same 6 lug pattern, and may come in a higher ratio. I'm pretty sure the perches would have to be relocated, but that would still be easier than pulling an engine or fabbing up a brake setup. If that swap were to work, I believe you'd also get the advantage of self energizing rear brakes. Mike

I'd look it over very carefully. Check for rust over the windshield where the hinges and wiper motors are. I'd look at the frame carefully and check for cracks or rusted out cross members. Suspension components for wear, brakes, steering componentry for play, all need to be looked at to see what has been done. See if he has any documentation on the engine rebuild as to what was done as far as machine work , what was replaced, and who did the work. Don't be afraid to make a lesser offer if it looks like it needs more work than you expected. Good luck.. Mike

Dan: There are a couple of models of pumps. There is one for the external bypass setup, and another one for the internal. I think there are also long and short versions. If someone doesn't have better info I'll look up the p/n's that I bought for you. I got all of them from NAPA. Mike

I don't think its possible to put the front axle on top of the springs w/o reinventing the wheel. You're going to run into major interference problems with the tie rod and drag link chassis and oil pan clearance issues. Just my input-take it for what its worth. I'd go with removing a leaf or two. Mike

I have heard that the parking light lenses from an early Jeep CJ series (the style w/o the integral ring) will fit the 51-53 parking light housings. That may be true- I bought a new lens and trim ring at a swap meet for $3.00 a few years back that the seller had marked as being for a CJ. It matched the original exactly. Don't know if he had it mislabeled, or I just got very lucky. Mike

I watched a trucker movie last week but I can't recall the name(Hi Ballin')? The hijackers were in a ph pickup. It got rolled early on in the movie. I noticed that in several movies, the bad guys are in MoPars. Wuzupwidat? I thought we were the white hat guys.

You can press the broken studs out with a press, or you can beat them out with a hammer and punch as a last resort. Finding new studs was a challenge for me. On these vehicles the driver's side is left hand threaded, and the passenger side are right handed. In any event-make sure that you support the inside of the drum around the stud with a pipe or other blocking that will allow the stud to be forced out of the hub. Failure to do that may result in a damaged or collapsed drum.

RR-the front cyls on my B2JA were the same as those on my 1 ton. Napa had a listing for them. Like you I don't want to pull the rear duals on the JA until I have known sourcing for those rear cyls. I was hoping that like on the 1 ton that they would be the same front to rear, only specific to side. I've been told that that is not the case. Please post what you find. Mike

RR: If you take a sample to a NAPA that's been around for awhile (one that still has parts books) they may be able cross reference it for you, or match it up by specs instead of application. If that doesn't work, I got the following response from Alretta Truck Parts in Boston, MA for the rear cyls on my JA. They may be mirror images of each other left to right. Mike I offer a replacement cylinder for this truck which will fit and work. The original dual bore cylinder will not be available from anyone. Please verify casting number and bore sizes: either 1.375 by 1.5” or 1.5” by 1.75” Geoff -------------------------- Alretta Truck Parts, Inc. Bldg.#5B, 2nd floor One Watson Place Framingham, Ma. 01701 Tel# 508-788-9409

Relax folks. The gov't told us: "If you like your privacy, you can keep it. PERIOD". Nothing to worry about-never mind what's going on behind that curtain.......

The gasket should be available at a NAPA store if you take your glass bowl with you for them to match up the size. Not to hijack this thread, but if there is a filter/sediment bowl on the fuel pump, is there really a need for another one needed right above the exhaust manifold? Mike

I've been using direct 12V on my 36 Plym and 52 Dodge horns for several years now w/o a problem. They're both slightly louder than the one in my 49 which is still 6 volts. The original wiring can be used if it is still in good and non frayed condition. Mike

That's why Howard Johnson used to serve 28 different flavors of ice cream. Folks have different ideas. This forum is a good sounding board to throw out ideas and suggestions. I've learned some, and helped others with some. Hey-if a guy is into PH trucks regardless if its a show winner (none of mine are) or a rat-they gotta be all right in my book. Mike

Welcome. That's a good solid looking truck. Hope you end up with it and join the MoPar madness. Mike

I got my step bored cylinders for all four corners of my 49 at NAPA and they did have a listing by application for this year. If you need the p/n's let me know and I'll go out and start looking through my records.

Yes there is a drain trough with a hose that dumps the water out in front of the firewall. The gasket I bought from Roberts works and seals fine. The key is to having the seal groove clean, and the seal glued down all the way around. After installation, it is important to inspect the vent cowl for straightness on the edges around the circumfrance. When installing it make sure to use the concentric shoulder bolts and adjust it so that when closed, the vent cowl touches the seal all the way around. If you install it w a regular bolt w/o the concentrics you'll never get it adjusted properly.

NAPA had the brake cylinders for my 1 ton (same front and rear but left and right specific). If you need me to I can dig up the p/n's. I ended up soaking my concentric bolts and then took my impact hammer to them and they came right out. I neversiezed everything before I put it back together.

You should try to remove the loose flaky stuff before you put any coating on. I've had good luck with a rust converter and then some type of rubberized undercoating. If you undercoat directly over rust it will continue to rust under the coating. Having surfaces clean and sealed makes all the difference. My rear trans seal was leaking when I first got my truck, but the area spattered by gear oil had original paint under it. I've also used a spray on heavy oil, but that leaves a mess and is only temporary. Mike