MBF

I celebrated early this year. Just finished welding in two patch panels and painting the passenger fender on my 50 B2JA. This was the only perforating rust on the truck. Trying to get it ready for the Rhinebeck show next weekend-if I miss that one, she'll be going to several local cruises this summer. I've got a small run under the rivet heads and I still need to color sand and buff it, but I'm pleased. I spend a lot of time trying to find matching rivets. I ended up using 2 three 3/8 cap screws and grinding the heads down. If I do find a closer match, I can just replace them.

Doesn't that mean that all engines that have the dipstick tube use the longer one, and the shorter one is for the blocks w/o the tube where the dipstick goes right into the block?

They made a 2 bbl manifold for a flattie? I can't speak about that, but on the slant six in my 1/2 ton, the two bbl makes a huge difference. The factory setup (called a Super Six) included a Carter BBD or a Holley two bbl with a 2 bbl manifold. I know for a fact that this improved performance. Back in the 80's the factory manifold cracked and I couldn't find a replacement Super Six setup. I put on a single barrel setup and the truck was a dog. I have long since replaced it with another Super six setup. I also had a custom exhaust bent for it since they are no longer available. The larger diameter pipe made a difference on the low end, as did re-curving the distributor. You're right-if you can get it in, you've got to be able to get it out.

Jeez, I thought I was the only one with the gettinbakup problem, so I never said anything. I'm to the point where I can almost fall asleep on my creeper.

I've backed up the drum and worked them out with a hammer and a drift, but I think now I'd do it with a press. Whatever you do, the hub should be backed up before you try to remove them.

For you right coast folks, or those that will be in the area for Father's Day Weekend don't miss the ATCA's Annual National Meet and 35th Annual Antique Truck Show in Macungie, PA on June 13th and 14th. We typically have over 600 antique trucks on display, and the largest truck related swap meet you'll see anywhere. More information can be found on our website http://antiquetruckclub.org ATCA Flyer.doc

Rustrunner: Did that seal work out for you? I just ordered one through NAPA for my B2JA. I'm hoping this works cuz there aren't a lot of other options through them. Mike

Two different sized bores per cylinder. One is a mirror image of the other. I think MoPar did this because they didn't have self actuating brakes. The ones on the front of my 1 ton, and 2.5 ton were the same p/n's and were purchased at my local NAPA dealer. Mike

Thanks Bob for us that couldn't be there those 249 pics were the "next best thing to being there". Looks like a great turnout with a lot of really great trucks. Thanks . Mike

Yup-but with a little more character. She's a survivor. To me the value is in its history, and the resurection. I do think I'd do something to make the interior finished. I found that that is conducive if you want your better half to go for a ride. '

The 39-47 dodges used a box that used a horizontal sector shaft that moved the drag link in a front to rear direction, the PH trucks used a similar box rotated 90 degrees from the 39-47 design , and used a more vertical sector shaft, that moved the drag link in a side to side motion. It allowed for more directional travel, and a tighter turning radius. Mike

You guys are going to post pics for those of us that can't make it aren't you? Man I wish I could be there. Mike

Is the rust hole on the cross member itself, or the riveted on bottom cover that encloses the actual cross member? Seems like these were excellent at becoming homes for rodents who then left their building materials behind to collect and hold moisture. I have one that has a hole in it that I'm going to cut out and weld in a patch. If the cross member itself is perforated, that may require more substantial repairs as the bottom cover would have to be removed near the damaged section in order to see what type of reinforcement is needed. Mike

48Dodger is right on with the steering box, bracketing, and mounting differences. I think I'd initiate a conversation with the seller and see where that goes. If you have the ability for a Plan B, (the most likely scenario) I'd be looking to find a known good frame and swap your sheet metal and drivetrain to something that you know is good and safe because you can build it as you go. There's a ton of cobjob work there that you can see-who knows what else is wrong. Bare minimum I'd sabre rattle a little and show him what you're talking about and how he misrepresented it and hope he would at least buy the replacement frame. I wouldn't start lawyering up. You'd be better off putting the money towards some beer and a frame-that way you'll have a safe vehicle to drive with maybe a little less aggravation down the road. Good luck

Paul-if you've done this before, no reason you can't do it again. What I meant is that things that were clean and paths to ground prior to the fire may now have corrosion or other material on them from the aftermath of the fire. They may not be able to conduct current as well as before. I think I'd run new batt to engine, engine to frame and engine to cab/body grounds as part of the rewiring process. Clean the 3 post connectors for the headlight on the sides of the radiator, and I'd remove the tail lights on the fire side to make sure that the housings still have good continuity to the body. Mike

Paul, Since you're doing a rewire you're going to have to pull the switches anyway. On every PH I've bought, I open up the panel and and headlight switches to clean the contacts and lube the shaft. Look at the phenolic plate in each one and make sure that the brass contact plate is tight and solid. Unless they're loose you should be good to go. Until you're absolutely sure that you're wiring is correct-I'd recommend a batt disconnect. You may have some ground issues that you didn't have before as a result of the fire that could cause high resistance. Mike

I used the single piece windshield rubber from Roberts about 12-14 yrs ago. I had a professional install it. I'm happy with the rubber and how its holding up. I just wish that it had been wider around the perimeter to cover more of the pinch weld recess. Mike

It answers the question as to why two sediment bowls are on some of our trucks. A lot of other videos in YT for earlier ph trucks too. Like I've always said, don't be confused by facts, you can make them read any way you want them to.

Todd-we've all been there. I think we all had the same priorities in high school.

On the slantsix.org website someplace there is a picture of an aluminum plate mounted under the carburator and extending out past the outer dimensions of the carb used as a heat sink. This may be something to consider if the composite plate doesn't solve the problem.

Before I did anything with my truck I noticed that the problem would resolve itself with a runtime of a few minutes. I assumed that it was the fresh gas getting to the carb cooling it down and eliminating the suspected vapor issues. That's why I think the heat shield, and insulating the gas line helped. On my 1 ton, I have a manifold setup from a Chrysler I-6 that has a larger plenum under the carb than the original manifold that is about 2" taller than the original. I've read articles on phase separation in the new gas blends, I'm wondering if something similar happens in the bowl of the carb with exposure to heat? I've never had this problem with the slant 6 in my pickup, but if the truck sits for a week or more, the bowl is almost empty when I first try to start it. That 2 bbl has a phonelic spacer under the carb. I think where you've got a hot manifold sitting below the carb on anything that you're going to have a problem w heat sink especially with the new gas formulations.

Like others have said, I think this phenomenon is caused mostly by the newly formulated gasolines alcohol content and heat sink of the carb, pump and fuel line. My truck would sit and idle after a long run but when I took off it would buck and cut out on a pull for a minute or so. I installed the heat shield on the fuel pump, and insulated the line from the pump to the carb and the problem seems to have been cured. I never had this problem when the vehicle was first started cold, and it would start fine when hot. Just my 2 cents. Mike

Since you have to replace the drum, on the parts truck it may be smart to remove the rims before you pull the drum to avoid damaging the inner seal when sliding the drum off the axle tube. Same thing when putting the replacement on your truck unless you have the dolly to slide the duals and drum off as an assembly. It can be done with some grease on a piece of plywood, but you have to have the vehicle jacked to the exact height so that the wheels are still making contact with the ground. Good luck-spring is just around the corner! Mike

Very well explained Todd!

I cleaned mine up still on the truck and painted them. I'm going to give them a shot of WD-40 if I see rust streaks starting to show during the season. That and a quick wipedown should keep them looking better than they were when I started.