9 foot box

A B6S crosses over to an Autolite 303 resistor plug. I had 303’s in an engine, and they are not hot enough. If after checking your plugs for burn quality, and you need a hotter plug, you might consider a B4 NGK. I have old J-11 Champions in my 251, I will replace with Autolite 295. I have a Desoto 251 with Champion J-8 plugs. You really have to run the engine and check the color of plugs. If they are blackish, you need a hotter plug. With NGK, a lower number. I know that you are limited to what is available, for your procedure. You would not need a resistor plug.

The hole with the arrow would have a rod that connects to a lever at the throttle plate linkage. It is for fast idle and your carb doesn’t use it. The short link connects the accelerator pump to the throttle linkage in the middle hole, for summer driving. The inner hole is for high altitude or extremely hot weather, the outboard hole is for winter operation. I would install it with the bend out towards the engine.

The key in the ignition is shaped like a trunk key, the ignition key is usually octagon shaped. For my truck ignition switch, It can be replaced with a US12L or a KS6482. The key is Pentastar shaped. I had to Dremel the button till it would pull out. The gal at Ace couldn’t get the switch to turn to ignition, for the button to be depressed on that one. I’ve watched video’s but never had the tools to open a lock. Constant turn pressure with a lever while getting all the pins up with a pick.

I was bench testing my old solenoid and an old button style. I could get the original to click, wired normally. I tried to hook up the button style the same way and nothing. I noticed the batt. terminal is connected internally to the center post on the button style. So, because that post is already hot, you would need to terminate the starter button wire from the fuel gauge and install wire from that connection to ground. My 49 was parked for 40 years and I had intermittent no start. From that I cleaned and secured the amp. gauge connections and the solenoid base mounts for a good ground. The starter button will turn the engine over with the key off, wired that way. A continuity test will verify if your new solenoid is the same as my old one. If I’m right on my assessment.

Replying to Noah H, your clutch pedal free play should be less than what it is. It’s just to keep the clutch fork off the throw out bearing. That won’t fix your problem but I thought I’d mention it. The fluid drives had a different carb with electric’s added and a dash pot to slow deceleration. I googled fluid drive carburetors and a thread from this forum in 2016 came up. It seems a BXVD-3 would be the correct carb.

With the shoes adjusted tight, the brake shoe springs can’t return the pistons to a brakes off position, returning fluid pressure back to the master cyl. Maybe read the brake section in the above Technical tab.

A good working starter and proper cables would work. I didn’t know they rated in amperage draw. 70 amp. seems good to me. I like the solenoid style with the button on top. Makes it handier than a remote. Probably a Ford item.

I use a stick of wood against the brake shoe for the spring removal tool to dig into to prevent damage to the lining. It also works as an additional lever. That wheel hasn’t had a major brake adjustment, but the ridge on the drum will have to be removed for proper shoe adjustment. Considering your moves, it’s good you can find those boxes of stuff. I sure liked that barn.

I bought a SS 549 and the bracket was narrower than the bolt holes. I had to notch out both sides and use washers to mount it in the original holes. That was for my 46 Bus. Cp. built in 45, right A pillar serial no. My 49 first edition Bus. Cp. is mounted further back and at an angle. That solenoid is larger than the original. A tractor one might look more original.

Maybe these numbers will work. Dorman 560-019 brass 1 3/8”, 550-019 steel 1 3/8”. My block has Melling plugs, P12B brass for the cam and P14B for the 1 5/8” plugs. The rear plug is a P14 steel plug. I don’t know if Melling makes plugs any more, but they have oil pump kits and cylinder liners. The shop that did my engine might have used up their inventory.

At the header at the top of this page, click Downloads, when that opens click reference information at the upper right. There is a bulb pdf. on page 3 that is handy.

Read the Carter B&B carb post. It relates to the same problem.

On a B2B frame that I have, the center bolt on the springs to the front spring is 26 1/2” and 26” from center bolt to the rear. You might have to turn your your springs around for proper clearance.

I’d like to see pictures of your project, to see how it’s assembled.

I would assume that each tooth moves the rotation 36 degree’s, with a 10 tooth gear. You might have to loosen the distributor from the the lock plate to get a suitable range of advance/retard. As to your #5 post. Three of my running engines have the #1 plug wire to the right of the cap hold down clip.

When a pump is put in, you turn pump drive shaft until the slot in the end of the drive shaft lines up with the cap screw holes in the mounting flange. Then turn drive gear one tooth counter-clock wise.

And on the other hand, you could use Autolite 295, set at .028”. A non-resistor plug. That’s what I run, with solid core plug wire.

I would pull all the plugs, prop the throttle wide open and do a compression test. If the numbers are low, put a squirt of oil in each cylinder and repeat compression test. If the pressure is better, put the distributor back to where you got spark and put the throttle back to idle, install plugs and wires. Your cylinders could be dry from all your previous attempts.

The horizontal shaft that goes back has detents in it, for spring loaded balls, to index it. That shaft isn’t going back far enough to go into detent position. The control rod linkage is too long or the fitting or plug where the back-up light switch goes, is stopping it from fully engaging. The fitting can’t go beyond the bore of the shaft. The shaft has got to go past the hole to engage the back-up sender.

Your car is licensed in Big Horn County, Hardin is county seat, and is in the Crow Indian reservation. Hardin is 14 miles North of the Little Bighorn Battlefield. Looks pretty straight, I’d jack up the front and flush out both sides of the frame and clean the mud out of the body sill braces. My P15 that was from Butte,MT, had packed dirt in the outboard braces that I got out and drilled a drain hole at the low end. My P15 from Trinidad,CO had red mud that rusted the metal a lot and needed repair to floor, sills and braces. I don’t know the construction of your car, but it’s what I had to deal with before.

I bench tested a vacuum motor with a vacuum pump from a refrigerator. End up putting 8 drops of MMO in and it worked well. The other part of the install required replumbing the fittings to be 1/4” ID. You need that size for the volume needed constant to the motor. I used 1/8” NPT with a 5/16” hose barb, turned down a bit for the hose to go on easier. The original system had an inverted flare fitting with 1/4” tubing, that restricted the volume considerably. My wipers worked even worse than your description. I was barely getting a complimentary swipe on deceleration. The wipers performed much better in a couple snow sqauls I drove in Easter Sunday.

Have you ever started the engine in the truck? A 440 is a lot of block to put in the space and be able to work on it, that’s the first problem. You’ll need to move the steering box to outside the frame, and fabricate a new steering column. A tilt front end would make it easier to work on. I toyed with the idea of a 4 liter Jeep engine but the longer block requires firewall modifications. I’d like to know if the engine in the truck can be started. A 289 Ford would fit better. But I’d keep it a flathead six.

Siemens makes a PM352 motor, classicpartsusa sells it. You can change the screws and shorten the shaft. You might have to elongate the mounting holes, I don’t know. It just looks like a fit. Delco discontinued that motor, I think.

Polsonator,j Just for the the heck of it I just looked on CL, In your area. Auto parts by owner, The heading is “ engine flat head six 37 Dodge”. It’s in White Salmon. $500, If you contact the seller, ask for the engine no. It might not be a 37. If that works, you could enjoy your car with the lighter traffic and think what you want in a rebuild. My 46 P15 has a tag on the block saying to Specify Model 231. So you could put a 230 crank, rods and flywheel in your block. You got some good miles out of that engine.

I would add changing out the brake fluid to your list. Getting old contaminated fluid out of the system is a good way to prevent problems.