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Silverdome

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Everything posted by Silverdome

  1. Ordered mine from Andy Bernbaum who in turn ordered them from Rock Auto. They were Raybestos brand I believe.
  2. Overdrive was not an option in 1948 but it was in 1952, so I would think you should have no problem other than possibly shifter linkage which you would use your original linkage I believe.
  3. Is this the thread you are asking about?
  4. You could look at it in another way. When the time comes for having to sell off the collection there becomes more cars and parts on the market which in turn could help extend the hobby for the fortunate ones that buy them.
  5. At work we will fill the holes with weld then redrill if we have interference issues. That usually only happens if we go from 4 to 5 or 5- to 6 hole patterns or vise versa. Otherwise we just clock them as there should not be enough pressure on that part of the drum to cause any problems.
  6. Here's a link to someone with steering slop on the car side.
  7. Here's a link I followed Grey Beards advice and found it to be spot on.
  8. The play could just be in your steering box, which is adjustable, but be sure to check all the components in the front end.
  9. Thanks. I do have the metal piece for one side but am unsure of the other as my dad disassembled that back in the '80s, right before his health failed on him. I believe I have the material stashed away in a box for the drivers side so I might get lucky with the metal clamp. If not I might have to make something similar.
  10. First off , I understand your fathers concern on safety as I am a father and grandfather. He is correct about the three point harness being safer but it will not matter what type of seat as the harness is not attached to the seat. IMHO. As for the same period feel it will be hard to accomplish with the shoulder belt. But if you anchor it with hardware that looks like it came from that era and don't have any retractors installed plus use aviation style buckles you'll be about as close as you can get.
  11. Thanks, I know there are some differences between P15 & D24 but I am unsure if that is one of them. Anybody know for sure?
  12. Sounds like a fine plan, enjoy.
  13. Welcome. That's a nice looking car. What's the plans for it?
  14. I'm getting ready to try my hand at reupholstering the door panels on my '48 P15 Business Coupe.My door panels are missing the bottom inch or so. What I need is the measurement from the top to the bottom both at the front and rear of the door where the radii starts, please see the drawing. Thanks for any and all help. 48_PLY_DBC_PASS_DOOR_PANEL.bmp
  15. Makes sense to me.
  16. Do yourself a favor and find that outside strip. On my '48 I replaced the windshield and gasket last year and that outside strip is what the interior screws attached to. The center rubber was just rubber and it was the original glass and seal as far as I could tell. The windshield had an inspection sticker from 1973 when the car was a mere 25 years old.
  17. Try Robert's Motor Parts or Andy Bernbaum's they sell rebuilt ones or will rebuild yours for around $70.00 I believe.
  18. Do a search on here about front shock relocation. If you're taking it down to the frame this would be the time to do that.
  19. Good to see the young ones joining in. Welcome and have fun. I didn't see a picture on your profile page but you can add one anytime.
  20. You are correct. I think this should give him the cranking power he's looking for and still use the generator for charging. Because it's basically like having a jump start battery hooked up all the time.
  21. I believe you're talking about John Edge's 52 Plymouth Suburban.
  22. Any updates? That manifold above looks great.
  23. What town? My brother lives in Warrensburg.
  24. Here is NAPA's latest reply. Greetings, We thank you for your mail. Unfortunately, the service desk you have reached does not have access to this information. We suggest that you reach out to the NAPA Flashers at 800.272.9562 x 2. Best Regards, Napa So if anyone wants to call there's the number.
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